simonr Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 I just thought I'd run this past you - as you're better at seeing holes in my thinking than me! There are several supposed 'security hinges' available - but all of them seem to rely on replacing the hinge pin with a bolt. Undoubtedly, this takes longer to remove than lifting the bonnet off, but you can still remove them quietly with no more than a multi-tool and a screwdriver (apparently). I figured the original hinges are quite good - so what I propose is this little folded bracket which bolts to two of the original hinge mounts (using shear nuts to secure). The bracket acts as a wedge which hits the bulkhead (with rubber buffers) before the bonnet is opened wide enough to lift off. The drawing of the hinge is dimensionally & functionally accurate - but the hinge pin arrangement is simplified to make the mechanical simulation easier - just before you say! I've not had any cut or folded yet - it's hot off Solidworks. I'd like to know whether you think "yes that's great - I'd buy that" or "What a stupid idea, I wouldn't buy that because...." or somewhere inbetween! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 My first thought is what happens when its got the full bonnets leverage and two pikey coonts ragging at it attempting to remove it? Potentially you end up either severely buckling/bending the bulkhead, buckling/bending the bonnet/hinges, or both, or shearing the spot welded hinges right off the bulkhead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 I reckon if you try to stop rotating the hinge, you have about a metre of leverage in the bonnet, so you just push hard and unroll the rolled hinge on the bulkhead. Cant you redesign the hinge, so that you have to rotate it further, so that you need to unbolt the hinge to take the bonnet of? Then use shear bolts to fit the hinges. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 or both, or shearing the spot welded hinges right off the bulkhead? thats a good idea, large hammer and cold chisle could have it removed no matter what security hinge its got. damn these evil thought i get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 The bit I'd forgotten is that Puma's don't have the vent flaps. I'd figured a bent vent flap is easier to replace than a missing bonnet. OK, I'll consign this to the round 'filing cabinet'! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Good idea, but I often open the bonnet the whole way/remove it entirely for routine maintenance jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Si, Have you seen the 'security' hinge from GMB (?) Think Mud Stuff sell them on their website. I personally think that something down the side of the bonnet, to help secure it, would be better. As other people have said if they can get the bonnet off its catch you have a great big lever to help get it off the hinges. Hope this makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Maybe bring out a bonnet lock like the ones early 90's/110's had? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 I actually have a very 'technical' alternative - which is simply to sleeve the release cable where it passes behind the grille - in a tube which makes it a lot harder to open the bonnet and hence remove it. Trouble is, it's not much of a product! There's no way to dress up a bit of tube to make it any more than a bit of tube, the perceived value of which will be similar to a bit of tube found in a skip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 How does the tube stop you poking the release arm the cable is connected to? Possibly with a screwdriver or maybe grabbing with some pliers (caveat this with I'm working from memory here ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edlen Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Could the whole mechanism be shielded to stop any access to the release arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 what about re-designing the bonnet stay so that cannot be easily removed from either bonnet or grille? this would also prevent the bonnet being rotated far enough to remove it from the bulkhead. The older style scissor type bonnet stays require removal of a the split pin which I'm sure could be easily modified to take an anti tamper bolt. I'm sure you could even do it with a gas strut arrangement. Anything to get rid of that leathal scissor stay . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o_teunico Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Could the whole mechanism be shielded to stop any access to the release arm? The above plus 100% new hinges, located internally, will be my choice. The type used in older bus/coach luggage area could work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 I rather like the simplicity of fitting a strong but short hauser to a tough eye fixed with secure fasteners to the existing hinge bolts under the bonnet. It could be attached via a padlock for easy removal of the bonnet but such that access for a scrote/s with a hand tool would find it a bu99er to cut through. A hauser the correct length with an eye each end could be lassoed round the bell housing and locked to the hinge. IIRC you had some thoughts on a very tough hauser material? It may not be in the usual X-Eng design style but could be effective. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Developing on Chris' hauser idea.... Which, at the back of the engine bay still gives access and leverage.. Why not put it at the front, with a padlock secured low, accessed from below (like onto the lashing eye with the lashing eye bolted with a security nut). It doesn't need to be bullet proof, just good enough to baffle the muppet that can't figure out why he can't get the bonnet higher than a couple of inches... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Why not weld it down to wingtops , so that they have to remove wings as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Why not weld it down to wingtops , so that they have to remove wings as well You could then have it as a tilting forward bonnet and padlock it to the bulkhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 My vote and preference would be an added extra bonnet lock like the old style ones that went through the grill surround panel, genuine LR ones are now hard to come by and not exactly secure, but there is easily plenty of scope to come up with a difficult to remove lock, and the inner side of the earlier bonnets have plenty of meat on the inside to have a locking latch installed., not sure about later bonnets as haven't really studied them. I good impenetrable lock on the front gets around all the "leverage" issues also inherently solves the "I want to remove the bonnet for maintenance " issue too... Get on it Si I want to see the prototype at Billing... Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpman Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 I'm thinking about fitting a pair of gas-struts (one each side) - this would stop the bonnet from being lifted too high (without taking them off) and would be easier to open the bonnet in general. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 i like the principal, its clever, could also be modified to take a HI LIFT mount and be multipurpose, although i regularly remove the bonnet of all LR's i do any real engine bay work on as it improves access 10 fold. although a securely fully opening bonnet with new stay mechanism would be just as good. i like the idea of "reinventing the LR lock" but with the grille being so removable, both this and any attempt to shield the cable arrangement is made tricky, unless the lock is enclosed by 5 out of 6 sides with an unremovable metal box, and the other by the bonnet itself. regarding bending the bulkhead, i guess if you have to use sufficient force to bend the steel tabs which make up the hinges, the bonnet would be bent too? rendering it useless to the thief, and yes, bloody annoying to owner, so i guess thats pointless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy62alan Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 here is a link showing the bonnet I want to by or fabricate for my Hybrid Defender, if you see both links they have differant but similar side catches this could be done with 2 locking folding hasp locks and improve security some what al though long winded to do. http://forsale.landroveraddict.com/private/2587 http://www.blitzworld.co.uk/sahara-4x4-jeep-road-legal-i308.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Thank goodness I live in a country were they steal expensive modern cars and leave 1998 tatty looking Land Rovers Discovery's well alone, I discarded my bonnet release cable years ago and simply have two bonnet retaining rally style pins to hold it down - far easier to open and a lot quicker, - the safety catch however is still retained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 What about a bolt cutter proof cable that fixes to the car and bonnet? You could have full opening but not get it away from the car. You could have a lock for if you want to remove fully. The product would be a bolt on solution that doesn't interfere with the workings of the engine. Even better if you could get insurance or sold secure approval? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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