robertspark Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Is that really the pH of a lemon? ? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 There was a picture of a gauge attached to Si's last post (which now seems to have been removed) as well as the normal readings on the gauge the last two items were. Smile 13mm Lemon 3pH (Si edited the post half an hour after making it which was while I was writing my post) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 The picture was still not as focused as I'd like! I tried using my DSLR and even it refuses to focus on the display! There is something about it that confuses the auto-focus. Need to try again with a bigger f-stop for greater depth of field - on a tripod. Just so you don't think Mr Wabbit is entirely Cwazy Si 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_pete Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 How much are flow meters ? I'd like a gpm reading for my v8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 For a V8 - something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G2-2-inch-Water-Flow-Hall-Sensor-Switch-Meter-Flowmeter-Control-10-200L-min-/221711310843?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item339f061ffb For everyone else: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7mm-Tube-Dia-0-1-3L-min-1-2Mpa-Hall-Switch-Fluid-Water-Flow-Sensor-Flowmeter-/191603570236?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c9c76763c Remember, you'll need one for the feed and one for the return. On a V8, you could probably use the big one for the feed and the little one for return 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Then you'd also need an accurate measure of distance travelled, you wouldn't get that from a Series Speedo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Then you'd also need an accurate measure of distance travelled, you wouldn't get that from a Series Speedo! Thats where my quest for an electronic speedo comes in. I'm going to use the Picaxe controller (that i have knocking about) to read a speedo transducer signal, and convert it to the relevant output. Entirely programmable and therefore i should be able to get it pretty spot on with some trial and error. I may upgrade to an arduino if i ever get round to fitting cruise and an MPG readout though. Might create my own "turbo timer" too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 The picture was still not as focused as I'd like! I tried using my DSLR and even it refuses to focus on the display! There is something about it that confuses the auto-focus. Need to try again with a bigger f-stop for greater depth of field - on a tripod. P7037342.jpg Just so you don't think Mr Wabbit is entirely Cwazy Si I'd love something like this, where I can get a single discrete screen of several inputs. Not a fan of having gauge pods or drilling the dash. I had been looking at these at one point: http://zada-tech.com/products but is quite pricey and think it would need a screen for each sender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Dailtsleaze, it doesn't state what type of input they require, do you know by any chance? is it a pre programmed screen and plug and play sensors? do you have to program it via a microcontroller, if so, does it require multi pin digital signals or a single pin serial signal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 [quite]I'm going to use the Picaxe controller Picaxe is a great microcontroller! An arduino is barely an upgrade! I'm just going Arduino because so many people know how to program it - and it's very easy! The Gauge is based on an Arduino Nano which gives the best combo of Analogue inputs with other stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 The Picaxe is a perfectly good microcontroller, however processing power and speed is limited in comparison to others. for something like controlling a speedo output it is perfectly adequate though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Si, thought you may use a lilypad as they are 2" dia... But then may have to sit outside of the front bezel, wondered if one of the other circular ones would work in your application. Or a custom board Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 My initial plan is to use a collection of off the shelf boards - display, processor, WiFi, Thermocouple Amplifier, power supply and make a carrier board including the 15 way D connector that all the boards plug in to / solder on to. It will also contain the I/O buffering. At the moment, it's a collection of boards wired together with a bit of Veroboard for the buffers. If it's successful, I will look at making a single board including the processor, WiFi & stuff which the display plugs in to - which should reduce the production cost a little. A few people have asked why I'm using a D connector? I guess my reason is the same as MegaSquirt - that they are easily available. If the Gauge is meant to be hacked and played with by the user - using some esoteric hard to find connector makes that unnecessarily difficult. The only thing that concerns me is they are not very waterproof! I'd like to make the gauge IP67. To that end, any suggestions for a connector (15 way or more), IP67 and either through hole or SMD mountable - would be very welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 LEMO connectors (their parametric search) are the dogs danglies but not cheap - I think a 6-way one I used at work was ~£20 for the cable end. But, they are robust and IP rated to basically whatever you want. Also typically latching so should survive even Nige's abuse... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 You can get IP67 D-subs, RS etc all carry them, both board straight a right angle Totally understand why you are using them, they are good value, and when you stray, they get very expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Do you really need an IP67 D connector? I've seen enough megasquirts which have been submerged or doused with mud/water and the D-connector is fine. Pack it with vaseline and you're laughing. Trying to make it submersible adds a lot of pain & cost compared to being splash-proof which is usually more than adequate. My Acewell speedo is submersible (designed for motorbikes & open kit cars) but they have a cable coming out of a gland on the back and then a regular multi-pin connector which is not at all protected. Even gauges & wiring which might get rained on are unlikely to spend much time actually fully submerged in water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 When I was selling the MadMan gauges, I had a few unhappy customers who had fitted them to LR's (which of course rain on the inside!) claiming they were unfit for purpose as they were not even splash proof. I'd like to avoid that as far as possible. Even if not submersable (IP67), IP65 would probably do. Wires coming out the back is OK, but not for mass production as they have to be soldered to something inside manually (where a connector on a board can be flow soldered). Also, the glands never seal a bunch of wires adequately - so they need to be potted into the casing. That being the case, I might be as well just to pot the back of a standard D Sub 15. All the waterproof connectors I've found are too expensive for my liking. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Si, what about using a couple of econoseal plugs? readily available and pretty well sealed? Just pot the cables into the back of the gauge then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 so they need to be potted into the casing. If you haven't already come across it it's probably worth taking a look at MagicGel. Kind of like a potting compound but with some weird properties, sort of self-healing sort of very flexible meaning you can adjust pots underneath it etc without losing any of the waterproofing. If you want to re-work the PCB or something then you can "peel" it off like sylastic. Dad uses it a lot in his systems, he now doesn't really bother with IP rated boxes, simply gets a suitable box and fills it with this stuff. One such box has survived being repeatedly sprayed with sulfuric acid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Ed - that looks fantastic! I'll order some 'Wonder Gel' which I think suits the application better. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 A few people have asked why I'm using a D connector? I guess my reason is the same as MegaSquirt - that they are easily available. If the Gauge is meant to be hacked and played with by the user - using some esoteric hard to find connector makes that unnecessarily difficult. The only thing that concerns me is they are not very waterproof! I'd like to make the gauge IP67. you can get IP67 rated D connectors. Try RS components. Edit: Bowie beat me to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Ed - that looks fantastic! I'll order some 'Wonder Gel' which I think suits the application better. Si I've got some MagicGel sat in the shed. And part of the MagicRubber (dog got the other half...) Yet to try them out, I suspect I need a bit more to do all the electronics on my TDV8... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpants Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 I'd recommend the Tyco 'Ampseal' series connectors- they are sealed, board mounted connectors available in a range of sizes- we use them on quite a lot of our products as there aren't many like it around- Availble from RS ins small quantities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 A little bit of progress. Just with random data. I've designed & implemented the data structures to hold all the settings and display data appropriately. The WiFi interface was going well until the WiFi adaptor started smoking - and not in a good way! It has to run on 3.3v and I think the regulator I built to take Car Battery voltage (up to 20v) - didn't! It started outputting 18v into the adaptor which then let the smoke out! Another one is on order! Si 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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