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Whoops! Need some help please!


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Had a look under the Rangie the other night for no particular reason and noticed that I have managed to put a rather large dent in the near side chassis rail between the suspension mounts. I'll try and get some pictures another night but it is dark at the moment so this sketch of the rail cross section will have to do.


I have obviously landed on something fairly robust at 7S. The sketch shows the bulge in the side wall and a crease in the bottom of the rail. These extend for about 12" along the rail.

I would like some opinions on how to remedy the situation. I intend to straighten out the rail as best I can and then plate it over. Getting the side wall back in place should be straightforward with a hammer, but I am concerned that the bottom of the rail wont go back as I straighten the side. Short of welding on a rod and pulling it or drilling a hole for a slide hammer (could be interesting with only a foot or so under the rail to operate!) I don't see how I can get the bottom of the rail back out to where it should be.

I need to get it reasonably flat so the reinforcing plates can be welded on all round to keep out water from between the plies.

Anyone got any clever ideas?

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OMG Bish, that's a big ding! Hmmm, trying to get the bottom straight might be interesting. I'd almost be tempted to chop out the 2 bent sides to leave an L section, get hold of some box section that's a snug fit inside the rails (IIRC there's one you can get off the shelf) and slide a couple of 200mm lengths 100mm into the ends of the section you've cut out. These sections could then be puddle welded and seam welded onto the good parts of the chassis legs and then the removed sections would be replaced with plate that's seam welded to the chassis legs/inserted sections and puddle welded to the inserted sections. Its a lot of work but it'd be strong and invisible.

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cut the side out, its weak as stretched anyway, then push the bottom out and weld plates either side back on?

or just plate over the whole lot.

or remove that elem of chassis and weld in new bit

or forget about it

or get Jim to lean on it that should pop the side in, and the shear thought that he might then touch the bottom bit willbe enough for the chassis to decide to straighten its self out.

Good ideas - sorry none.

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Though it pains me dearly to agree with Mr warnes welding advice :P ...

Seems like a plan to me - either chop it out and weld in new (I'd personally go for flat sheet cut to fit each of the two chopped out sides rather than full box to replace the whole channel in this case), or bash the carp out of it with a hammer, weld some nuts on the bottom of the channel, fit Man-sized tyres for clearance underneath (use jack / crane / whatever) and screw the slide hammer into the nuts and get bashing that too.

Doesn't seem worth breaking the sweat for though - just chop out the banana shaped bits, cut nice thick sheet to fit and butt weld it in, then put a diamond shape plate over each butt welded joint with a couple of holes for a plug weld, and then seam weld the carp out of it round the edge.

I'm probably missing something obvious, but these seem like your best / only options. Choose depending on your ability to do each one. Maybe it's worth checking the alignment of the chassis & axles, just to make sure its not scrubbing tyres etc etc. You may now have rear-steer and not know it!


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It really depends as to if things have moved.

Dents are one thing chassis twists are another and have the logic of shortening of the 3 legged chair,

be very certain you need to do anything before starting,

you can have HUGE dings dents and gouges in chassis without any side effects,

once you start tampering you can easily make things worse..................

If you do tinker then use a hydraulic body kit and move the outward dents inward 1st,

Oxy acet heating 1st can assist, inboard dents only need to come out if they really need to

RR and other LR Chassis are often welded under tension, I have cut a shut a number some can sprint wildly when cut

others sit and can be welded up no probs

Will, for your puddle weld.... is that a single pigeon or a well fed flock ?


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Quick way to check chassis alignment

Park on a flat, horizontal concrete base.

Drop plumb lines from various points on the chassis, symmetrically along each side. Mark the ground where your plumbs drop.

Move the vehicle and chalk straight lines, diagonally between corresponding marks on each side, the intersections should lie on the centreline of the vehicle

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A RR chassis is made from 2 pressings of U sections clamped in jig and seam welded.

The 'memory' of the bent up steel sections can be huge,

the outriggers and cross beam do little except maybe the welded in cross beams which add stability.

As and when you cut into this pre stressed unit the "Fun" can be huge,

worse I had was a 110 that had a chassis rail move nearly 2 inches when he cut the rear cross member off, it also moved more as the crossmember further forwards was rotten, and it almost tore through that

Its the style of making that causes the springing effect, and it can vary hugely

Bish........If you need it somwhere I have a compelte chassis dimesnion chart from LR yell if you wnat it, RB is very much in MHO on the right track


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I have little faith in chassis dimension charts due to the fact that it seems no two LandRover chassis are the same. Local ARB bullbar fitting agents and tray body builders run a mile if you bring a Landey in to have one of their products fitted, citing the reason that the chassis are so dimensionally inaccurate that it takes them ages to get everything looking reasonably straight and parrallel.


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My advise to protect any areas of bare metal and then leave it alone. When you ‘cut out’ you will release the tension and something is liable to twist, unless it is all braced before hand :rolleyes: ………….. even then, with the body and other weight still on the vehicle it still a bit hit ‘n’ miss lottery. Also you would struggle to pull that out with a port-a-pack as the under section has a central internal flange.

As has been said, you can have quite bad chassis dings without actually doing any harm.

If you really want to plate the under section ……….. that can be done OK ……..I will do the welding if you want Charles ;) ………… but its probably best left alone


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I doubt the chassis is weakened very much Bish, you could just leave it alone if that's your only concern.

If I was going to repair it I would brace the chassis so that it doesn't move, then cut the damaged part out and replace it. Alternatively you could bash the bulges inwards and then flat plate over them.

Les. :)

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This is what I'd do if it were mine:

Bash the side back in flat with large piece of wood and a hammer(wood to protect the chassis)

then get a plate welded along the bottom covering the dent a decent way, make sure the welding is continuous then primer/paint and forget.

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I have the same dints on my chassis after going over a huge log!!. I had to adjust the doors to catch the strikers again after the bash, other than that I have done nothing to it and it seems fine.

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Thanks all for the advice, well all of you except Boggie :P .

I think I shall go for the bash and plate approach. Don't fancy cutting the chassis about. I've just got to work out how to maintain a decent drain path for the inside of the rail as I don't want it rotting out from the inside.... :blink: .

I shall be off to visit a certain small person who will be perfectly proportioned for this work! :lol:

Cheers all.

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