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Volvo C303 Overlander Build


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On 10/5/2020 at 12:02 PM, geoffbeaumont said:

Biggest problem with putting the water tanks (or any other containers for liquid) is that unless you only ever drive with them either empty or brim full then they'll suffer from surge which suddenly changes the weight distribution of the vehicle. Very dangerous if you have to suddenly swerve - could easily lead to loss of control or even a roll.

Yeah i know, but they wont always be full and a least balanced, 1 each side. The issue is that i want to use the chassis space for a 2nd fuel tank and a small waste tank. Although i could always put the water tanks in the cabin low down... and store pillows in those high spaces🙄

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12 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Personally, I wouldn't sweat it as it's a 7.5 ton truck chassis not a Ferrari.

You missed two important words... its a 5700kg off road truck, if you start putting a few hundred kilos of sloshing weight up high you could become a cropper on side slopes as the weight transfers off to one side. Keeping the heavy stuff low down will pay dividends later on.
 

If the water tanks can go under seats/beds or between chassis rails that would be ideal, and will make it easier to fill too.

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4 hours ago, NRS91 said:

You missed two important words... its a 5700kg off road truck, if you start putting a few hundred kilos of sloshing weight up high you could become a cropper on side slopes as the weight transfers off to one side. Keeping the heavy stuff low down will pay dividends later on.
 

If the water tanks can go under seats/beds or between chassis rails that would be ideal, and will make it easier to fill too.

And it was designed to have a 60kg wheel on the roof of the cab, and 7 soldiers with gear in the back. The design depends on the use, i'm not using it for high lean angle competition or extreme off-road.

And that extra weight you perceive will be negated anyway by the removal of the steel body and putting a much lighter composite one.

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1 hour ago, HoSS said:

And it was designed to have a 60kg wheel on the roof of the cab, and 7 soldiers with gear in the back. The design depends on the use, i'm not using it for high lean angle competition or extreme off-road.

And that extra weight you perceive will be negated anyway by the removal of the steel body and putting a much lighter composite one.

If you ever spend time in the Australian outback (or dozens of other places), you'll see smaller 4WDs loaded to the hilt with jerry cans, spare tyres, tents, firewood and even boats and the kitchen sink on the roof.  They travel surprisingly quickly and most of them are just fine.  The ones that do fall over generally do so because they fit a dipstick behind the steering wheel...

 

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They seem to cope OK with a fairly full load... There's also the common sense factor of how far off-road you want to push a 5+ ton truck before you're risking getting yourself into something you can't get back out of. I also find that it shakes the beers in the fridge up if you're not careful.

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1 hour ago, HoSS said:

A quick test fitting of the motor/GB/TX to get an idea of position and clearance.
Gantry crane is the best 100 Eur i've ever spent :)

My long-term workshop goal is to have my own place with a proper gantry crane built in. In the mean time I've got to make do with some borrowed scaffolding and a couple of chain blocks!

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8 hours ago, landroversforever said:

My long-term workshop goal is to have my own place with a proper gantry crane built in. In the mean time I've got to make do with some borrowed scaffolding and a couple of chain blocks!

In an ideal world we would all have the right kit but we do what we have to do to achieve the end result that's what I like about this forum its members are very rarely beat regards Stephen 

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On 10/3/2020 at 10:29 AM, Carloz said:

 

 

Entirely mechanical would be not my way to go: it will be ok but is never going to run perfect over the whole rev range. And always more smokey than needed.

The elements can changed over between the mechanical and electronically controlled pump. 😉

 

 

I'd have to disagree. Just helped to fit an OM606 and six speed box into a 461 SWB. It's got the big bore manual pump as converted by the G wagen expert up by Bristol Airport (not Axleburger) and the damn thing is clean as a whistle and too powerful. Wheelspin in 4th is simply not practical; so it's been backed off a bit. Damn thing tows a dream and with the six speed box it's perfect through the rev range

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I'm not all the worried about smoke as it will be detuned a little anyway, the full torque available from the 606 and the DM pump will break the drivetrain.
I'll give it a go on mech pump and if its too harsh i have the option to retro-fit the e-pump/ECU back on.

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18 hours ago, Nonimouse said:

I'd have to disagree. Just helped to fit an OM606 and six speed box into a 461 SWB. It's got the big bore manual pump as converted by the G wagen expert up by Bristol Airport (not Axleburger) and the damn thing is clean as a whistle and too powerful. Wheelspin in 4th is simply not practical; so it's been backed off a bit. Damn thing tows a dream and with the six speed box it's perfect through the rev range

As with anything, its all about the setup. Seen plenty of electronic pumped cars rolling coal. 

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21 hours ago, landroversforever said:

As with anything, its all about the setup. Seen plenty of electronic pumped cars rolling coal. 

That is a fact!

But electronic has always the advantage that it can be mapped much more precise. But that must be done of course.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well engine mounts made and welded in. Gearbox & transfer box fitted with the custom adaptor.
I had a small issue with the adaptor, it was 10mm from closing up, either due to a miscalculation by the chap who made it or that the transfer box input gear was different on his model.
Anyway i had the choice of a) adding a packing plate, b) modifying the spud shaft or c) the input gear. I didnt want to do a) as it changes the mount position, b) was not possible as it would need reducing at its weakest point, so I pressed out the tx input gear. Sure enough it was hardened and nothing i have would touch it, had a look around the internet for inspiration and found someone mounting a dremel on a lathe to work on hardened steel. So i strapped a die grinder to my toolstock and proceeded at the grand feedrate of 0.1mm/min to take the splines back.
 

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Engine in place, a very nice clearance to the axle this time around.
Custom brackets made up for the alternator and PS pump, a much better arrangement than my first attempt, it all makes use of the space quite nicely now.
 

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