SteveG

Price has inflated heavily since they first gave ballpark figures. Originally they were talking early to mid 30’s exc VAT for entry commercial that’s now £40K exc VAT, and for private buyers the 2 door van starts at £48K with the station wagon now in the £50K’s 🙄

Just advertise as a half finished project that you don’t have time to finish and stick it up on eBay for 5K like many others do! 😉😉😉😉😉😉

Have you spoken to Dave at Ashcroft to see what he has on the shelf from his earlier HD axle sales?

Usually it’s down to the fact that the paint doesn’t atomize well. Typically if it can be applied with an airless sprayer it will go on with brush or roller ok.

Are you sure it’s not just an insulated bulkhead post that passes through the bulkhead. Description, plus brown wires would suggest this and the fact that I’ve never heard of a positive earth range rover classic so it wouldn’t have been factory.

Your rear radius arms are still standard Mo - oh the shame of it 😉😉😉😉

As above, you’ll need to run a new wire of sufficient capacity to the rear, good compressors for example can draw 30-40 amps on their own. 12voltplanet is a good easy source of parts.

Raptor needs a good key to adhere, so you’d have to abrade the coach paint before applying. You’d also have to let the coach enamel fully gas out before overcoating and lastly Raptor finish is Satin at best. So in a nutshell - no good 😉😉😉

Who needs gauges now? I only use the digital speedo display and then occasional look at fuel gauge on my daily. Even with the fuel, I tend to thumb scroll to the range estimation. Having a configurable digital display is much better in my opinion. Everyone can customize it to exactly what they want to see and nothing more. I personally like the overall look, and the pre wired accessory switches. Hopefully they price them in the same way Ford has done with the new bronco, and don’t follow LR’s example of charging £100 for a dog bowl and £500 for a carp shower attachment 😉😉😉

If you’re using M14 I wouldn’t worry about type of thread or pitch

You might be better with a RAL colour code - everyone mixes these. A quick google shows 6021 Pale Green as a close shade.

Might be easier to make it all manual for what you want and use a blue sea 4 way switch… https://www.bluesea.com/products/9002e/e-Series_Selector_Battery_Switch_with_AFD hang your accessories off the common pole, main battery on 1, aux battery on 2. 1. Accessories running off main battery 2. Accessories running off aux battery 1+2 Accessories running off main and aux (plus aux charging) OFF

You can bleed D2 brakes to a sufficiently ok level without a power bleed, so I’d do this first. Once you have all four corners done, then power bleed to firm up the pedal to the correct level.

😉😉

Ah but what year? I’m guessing 1968 😉

A crane as in one of these… 😉😉 Should help to deliver the anvil 😊

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-ineos-grenadier-roader-delayed-until-2022 New Ineos Grenadier off-roader delayed until 2022

Or go for the pin pin OME shocks and Gwynn Lewis mounts that offer more rotational movement of the shock instead of the eye mount.

Have you tried NFU? Fortunately, I’ve not had to use it for a long time, but I’ve never had an issue with them when it came to main dealer quotes for repair.

Yes from Waytek in US

I have one here that I no longer need now… Specs here… https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46354/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-15401-2-0-1-0A-RFRM/ You can have it for £100 for the unit, relays, fuses, terminal pins, plugs etc. , or if you want the tails and Deutsch connectors, wired as is in the photo, add another £90 - the connectors are expensive and I can use them elsewhere. This additional cost is just the cost of the connectors including their respective mating halves and terminal pins. cheers Steve

Doh 🙄 after posting all of it that, I just noticed the V8 part, so ignore me, it will be for a TD5 with aircon 🙄

Pretty sure I have one here plus pulley if you want it. The previous owner of my son’s D2 had removed ACE by just changing belt and pump, but left everything else including rusty leaky pipes etc. in situ. So when I got it, I bought the kit with uprated ARB’s and it came with a belt and pulley that I don’t need. Let me know if you want them, and I’ll take a look for them. If using it for mostly on road, I’d recommend the uprated ARB’s. cheers, Steve

Here you go, you can fit one of these... http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=97

Just standard LR accessory part - steering protector.