Arjan

Very, very nice !

Very nice !! Please tell & show us more..

Old School nut oh so fun on wet tarmac...... Series in the mud with SAT's were back in the '80 s & '90s.. The Super All Traction really were off road tyres, anything wettish with a bit of "Oomp" could see you doing interesting things on roundabouts normally reserved for nitro drifter things... Those were the days.. Put them on some 8 spokes and you are really getting a "retro" look Make sure they are safe - they might be very dry...

The TDV8 should not need a tune. Make sure the thing is running as it should before even considering tuning...

Very, very nice !

I never put engine & gearbox straight onto concrete. Get wooden block and some planks to level the thing out - and make sure it can fall over : they are very unstable..

Living in cars, I play too much Mp3 files and sometimes the HU's can be funny. Good to hear you've got finnaly tunes !! The 110 has one that eats 64 GB SD cards.... Now we're talking..

I'd suggest you go back and get them to fit the tow electrics you'd ordered.

Welcome. Living a long way away I can't really comment on the UK situation but we have gone for a horse truck for our horse transport needs.

Don't want to hi jack the tread. I'll try to set up something in the vehicles / international section.

Graag gedaan ! The 110 is a work in progress Long distance overlander - twin (80 ltrs.) underbelly tanks, 300 Tdi, kitchen and bed in the back. Roll Cage hopefully fitted this Winter (anybody with a 3-door SD cage they want to get rid of ?) and roof hatch, engine & night heater, 2 batteries, etc.. Poor things works for a living

Graag gedaan Basically, we live on a hillside and every 4-5 metres, the floor level goes down some 25-35 cm. This makes living and building here interesting at times... We will fit the 4-poster KONI Ramp on the concrete floor that sit about 25-30 cm below the floor of the workshop adjacent to it and will fill out the floor around the ramp with concrete so, effectively, the ramp will need to be raise a bit to get the ramps level with the floor. Drive a Land Rover on it and we can then lower the ramp. The engine bay becomes so much more accessible to work on then !! Also, because the floor under the vehicle is -25 cm. a 4 mtr roof (effectively 3.70 under the beams) becomes 3.95 and gives good working height. We'll be starting the build of a 2nd ABRI (24 x 6.5 mtrs. - 4 mtrs. high because of the horse truck that needs to be parked under it) after the Summer and later next year the 3rd ABRI (13,5 x 6 x 3,2 mtrs) is to start. Once that is finished, we can restore & enlarge the workshop to 14 x 9 x 4 mtrs. Althoug I may cheat and make the roof 4.25 mtrs. high just to be sure. I loaded 60 "Bailey Beams" this week in Holland and took them home behind the 110. The roofplating is already here... This time the amount of concrete is not too bad - about 10 M3 (or 10 trailer loads as we do the transport ourselves...) The sheetmaterial & insulation will be collected late this year and transport like this...

Me being Dutch, that's easy.... .... don't ask me about German though....

No problem. Let me try to make a drawing for you as that might be easier - English is not my native tongue.....

causeway4x4

I'm very happy with my supplier. He replies to E-mails, knows Land Rovers inside & out and, above all, is actually quite good in comms. No fancy website - my Email gets a reply. If different options are possible he will tell you. Shipping works.

Looking Good !

Leather gaiter can mean anything - usu fitted after the vehicle was bought. There is a special liquid that you can try to make the VIN no appear once applied. X-ray wil also show the number outline but I've always been led to believe in the UK that VIN plate is more important than the chassisno that should be stamped in the chassis behind the right front wheel...

Sounds like a "Softdash" if it is a '93 one. Lots of Disco I bits - good heater - and many miles of wiring. Engine usu a 300 Tdi.

I'll know in a few weeks once the Tdi is up and running.. However, all those "in the know" claim the engine mount rubbers need to be top quality for that reason... We'll see...

Thank you all for the thoughts & suggestions ! Being Dutch means I know LPG and have used it a lot in the past. I had a 3.9 V8 engine that lived in several RRC's and did about a million km's with us on LPG. The last 2-door we had on LPG was basically 2 Ricardo seats and about 490 ltrs. (over 11 gallons in your money) nett of LPG tanks. All legal and tested. We could do Holland France and back - with a trailer - without refuelling... But LPG is not easy to find here in France once you leave the Autoroute and the French frown on tanks over 115 ltrs... A diesel engine must be analogue - no ECU's etc. The MAzda worked very, very well but they are getting very hard to find..

Bonjour Tous ! I have been offered a good - as in very little rust etc. - LHD 4 door RRC Saudi Spec. Right now, it is a 3.5 inj. with a 5 speed manual box (LT77 I guess ???) Quick questions : 1 - IF LT77 gearbox is fitted, will it accept a 200 or 300 Tdi ? 2 - What better diesel engine options are there ? (Mazda I know already - had several) if - a very big IF - I'd were to go the RRC route it will do about 35,000 miles a year so LPG is an option.. Diesel, however, is so much easier in many way. Perhaps the 3rd. question should be "am I insane to even consider getting a RRC"....

Very nice !! Having moved house & countries too many times over the last 30 years, we seem to have lost a lot of pics (analog) of the various builds we did... Looking at this project I really look forward finishing the 88" 200 Tdi conversion.. Once finished, I'll put up pics. Please, please keep them coming !!

Zeus seems to be alive and kicking : http://www.zeus.uk.com/index.php " It does confirm to me that there is still no easy way to get discs on a series " Well, the Zeus kit is a direct swop bolt operation and works very well.. But yes, it does cost money.. In the end, it is just a personal choice

Yes - the LED's confuse the trailer indicator light. We have added a conventional sidelight in parallel with the indicator LED on the trailer and the green light is back again..