Arjan

What vehicle, what use, what budget, what's your level of competence in using these machines ?

See your problem.. Apart from getting a mechanic who knows what he / she is doing, the obvious way to go is to replace the Td5's with Td'5. Turner's do very, very good engines and if swopping like for likes, it could be worth getting some outside help fitting the things. Although I love the Mazda lumps (3.5 Tdi 4 cyl.) that is a good, strong and very simple engine I'd not go that route as you're going to have problems getting spares etc. We also have an 2.8 Iveco in a 130 that did very, very well but again, parts could be a problem. Bon Courage !

I had a VDO Tempomat in the RRC with the Mazda. Not cheap but very, very good. Interested to hear about the " Waeco kit " as I again will need to fit one to a 300 Tdi.. Tdi needs something with a cable to move the lever on the pump.

Once they run out of Series Ones & RRC's they can begin with Defenders.. Pity it is this far away from us..

Unless the electric solenoid has intermittent problems, you describe fuel line blockage... We had a similar problem with the 110 after a long trip this Summer it just died doing 75 on the motorway... Would hardly tick over.. Replaced all filters and fuel lift pump, etc.but no success, Eventually got it home and put some serious air pressure through the fuel lines, effectively emptying the fuel tank in the process.... Serious high fountain of diesel to be seen from the fuel filler but no more problems afterwards.. I must stress that doing this does have its risks - esp. from her LadyShip who was not impressed by the large quantity of dumped diesel on the grass..... Bon Courage !

This is good old fashioned service. Well done in these days of "out of warranty - we don't care"

What they said.... I have a pair and paid not a lot for them a few years ago. In France, parts are becoming a problem - not sure about the rest of the world. Considered getting one for the 110 rear axle but in the end could not be bothered..

We use laser measurement equipment for that. Distance to base, distance to the top, measure the angle and you know the height. The fancy once have a build in function for that. We use them also for measuring space under high tension wiring..... Very useful.. But, not wanting to sound pedantic or so, why the need to measure the height bunt not accurately ?

Very wise move !!! Well done. Good. Series are for life - don't forget that...... Mine has been with me since '79...

You may find that if you fit belt they need to be the original type. We have 5 point hook in ones that only go in when the going gets tough.

One can always ask....

Numax CXV35MF Sealed Leisure Battery Twin poles and managed to start both 200 & 300 Tdi's in seriously cold weather. The LED's draw so little amps that we use it for the "living" quarters aswell. No need for special winch battery, can't comment on that. We have them in 5 vehicles.

Hmm.... We found that the jerrycans (MOD ones) do fit bit it takes a bit of "wriggling".. We have flat ones and they work just fine. Try a MOD one for size..

Can't comment on Marsland - never seen them in the metal`myself. Designa has no prices - but the ones I've seen were good. I'd love to rebuild a 109 one day - the overlanding started with one of those. Please take the time and effort to galvanize the bulkhead - makes life so much easier... All the best !!

Not sure if they are "the only one" - but AFAIK they are the only one who supplies new replacement chassis for Series. I'd love to be wrong though. Please note that the use of a chassis that has alreay a VIN No. stamped in it brings you into a very grey area..

Good Job !!

I have said nothing. Excuse my ignorance

Marketed well - there is a demand for anything. Wish the owners well. Paid less for my houses in both Holland and France I'll keep mine - thank you very much.

In some 25 years with parabolics I have not yet managed to destroy a diff through "flexing". I drove some Mustangs in the US back in the 80's and they had "tractionbars" under the leaves - basically a steel box section - to stop the flexing. But they had a big V8.. I must not be trying hard enough..

TBH - I'd stay away from any RAM type system. Drilling a few holes in the chassis, liberally apply Galvafroid and you'll be fine.

Worth it ? Hmm... Very personal thing but we fitted ours 27 years ago and are very, very happy with it. IH Scout box (Saginaw) - Defender coll. collumm - Home made connection - Series indicator stalk Powersteering pump on the 2.25 / 2.5 from a Jaguar At present, we're fitting a 200 Tdi so I'll ask Mr. Pirtek to make some new crimps for the hydraulic hoses. Bon Couarage - be safe.

Contact Debbie at "sales@autosparks.co.uk" They supplied me from stock with these connectors.

Bonjour Mav, The RBRB I fitted came in 3 pieces for the interior of the vehicle : 2 uprights (with a spreader plate in the wheel arc) and the multi bended tube that goes across that is bolted to the floor (seat belt mounts) and to the uprights. As you can see on the bottom pictures, the upright sits between the "wheel box" and the rear body capping's. The uprights are bolted vertically to those capping and you need yo drill out some rives. The instructions show a simple installation on a loose body without sidepanels etc. Real world fitting with those sides in place is not for the faint hearted.. You need to grind away a lot, drill against rivets and clear the way for the seats to go further back. I strongly suggest to remove the side for better access.

Bonjour ! Could have been mee - I fitted this RBRB to the Mrs. Ninety with the sides in. In plain English : a pain to do it with the sides in places and also a very, very controlled grinding skill is needed. Taking the rear bulkhead out takes time and you need to cover windows and yourself very well as aluminium is not the nicest stuff to attack with a grinder. This one - said to be a genuine LR verzion ?? - comes very close to the sides and you need to be very careful not taking out to much. Also, fitting some aluminium profiles on the "side boxes" is recommended as it easily splits.. and causes the muds etc. to fly in...

If you're happy with the seats - why the frequent access need for the battery ? Insulator switch & andersons connector make that we see rarely the need to remove the Disci 1 seats. IF we do need to remove the seat, I take out 4 bolts (spanner 13) and 3 minutes later it is out.