Anderzander Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 How are you going to join them Stephen ? With a flange and bolts like the Facebook one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Couple of tubes of this and you'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Was the mill gear cast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 36 minutes ago, MECCANO said: Was the mill gear cast? Unfortunately yes regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Anderzander said: How are you going to join them Stephen ? Cast iron welding the idea being to build it up and grind it back so ultimately it will look like it hasn't been shortened, the welding process will take a long time as I will need to tack it and then v back the smaller section so I can weld to the inside edge, then grind back the tacked section to do the same and then finish off with a bit of internal grinding and weld up. Ages because you are looking at a max of 15mm to 25mm long welds all stress relieved with a chipping hammer or needle gun regards Stephen Edited May 25, 2021 by Stellaghost 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted May 25, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 25, 2021 1 hour ago, landroversforever said: Couple of tubes of this and you'll be fine That's what I like about you Ross " nothing at all " lol regards Stephen 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 25 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: Unfortunately yes regards Stephen I could 3d print you a copy in plastic, that could be used to cast a new one? Might need one of the adults to tell me how i model the gear accurately as i don't know anythign about tooth profiles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 I came across this recently: Suggest you may need something sturdier depending on what the gear actually does, but the tool he uses in it to generate the gear looks dead simple. Tooth form doesn't change much between applications, there's only really one that really works well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 (edited) 49 minutes ago, MECCANO said: I could 3d print you a copy in plastic, that could be used to cast a new one? Might need one of the adults to tell me how i model the gear accurately as i don't know anythign about tooth profiles. Very generous of you, but not to worry I have some gears coming in the next couple of days that will need boring out and a keyway put in,after that a bit tweeking and hopefully sorted. For the life of me I cannot track down some original gears regards Stephen Edited May 25, 2021 by Stellaghost 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 (edited) Just shout if you change your mind. The printer does all the hard work, i just need to chuck a model together and press go, sacrifice a goat and pray to gods the print doesnt fail! Edited May 25, 2021 by MECCANO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 19 minutes ago, MECCANO said: Just shout if you change your mind. The printer does all the hard work, i just need to chuck a model together and press go, sacrifice a goat and pray to gods the print doesnt fail! Bit like my milling regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 8 hours ago, Stellaghost said: Cast iron welding the idea being to build it up and grind it back so ultimately it will look like it hasn't been shortened, the welding process will take a long time as I will need to tack it and then v back the smaller section so I can weld to the inside edge, then grind back the tacked section to do the same and then finish off with a bit of internal grinding and weld up. Ages because you are looking at a max of 15mm to 25mm long welds all stress relieved with a chipping hammer or needle gun regards Stephen Wouldn't it be much easier to just make an intermediate plate both bits bolt to? That extra 10mm or so won't hurt much I'd think. Not as factory looking then though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 7 minutes ago, elbekko said: That extra 10mm or so won't hurt much I'd think. What !!!!!!!!! How very dare you lol when I've been trying to save mms. Joking aside, I could put a plate there but it's another avenue to leak oil and for bolts to come loose I also thing the diff casing has the potential to be weak in that area with a bolt plate. So I'm going to stick with welding and hopefully a finished factory look regards Stephen 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted May 26, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 26, 2021 (edited) A slight detour from topic but still releventish As some of you will know my milling machine gave up the ghost But it's fixed now !! For those that's interested this is how I did it Ordered a couple of gears to the nearest size 0.17mm oversize Set up in lathe with DTI Then 14mm bore taken out to 18.5mm with a drill And then finished to size with a 3/4" reamer Gear thinned slightly, boss machined down and gear diameter reduced by .2mm Then laboriously cut a keyway in with a trusty file Boss then drilled and tapped to m6 and grub screw fitted Then both gears installed in their respective places Mr mill a happy bunny again regards Stephen Edited May 26, 2021 by Stellaghost 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Nice work Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 26, 2021 Author Share Posted May 26, 2021 4 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Nice work Stephen Cheers Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Wonderful ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 Did I read that you are going to lengthen your lightweight wheelbase to fit them ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 27, 2021 Author Share Posted May 27, 2021 9 minutes ago, Anderzander said: Did I read that you are going to lengthen your lightweight wheelbase to fit them ? Probably won't need to now regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 28, 2021 Author Share Posted May 28, 2021 Diffs are that long had to invest in a 0-300mm digital caliper regards Stephen 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 Ooo it’s made by mm/inches - must be good, I see them everywhere.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_grieve Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 It's awesome to see the relentless progress on this. The broken mill gears would be a major setback for many that hardly even slowed you down, great stuff!! I don't know if the gently gently approach is the best way forwards to welding that diff head? I would likely do the weld prep, clamp it with a big bolt through the pinion hole, get both halves red hot and fire up the welder whilst it's all still hot by tacking it with numerous small tacks then give it death for the root run so you're welding right through the tacks and pein it afterwards with a blunt chisel and weld, pein, cap and pein again whilst it's all still hot. let it cool and see what shape it is in the morning. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 On 5/28/2021 at 11:47 PM, Jamie_grieve said: let it cool and see what shape it is in the morning. This I have concerns about which is why I have aquired some 5" diameter steel bar just in case I need to machine a flanged end. However I have been doing a bit of research and will try welding diff case with Eutectic Castolin 4044 rods, this allows the the welding process to stay below 100 degrees and apparently they are excellent rods. Watch this space and we will see how I get on fingers crossed regards Stephen 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 @Hybrid_From_Hell welds diff casings/castings for diff pegging all day long, he might be able to chime in with some advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Good call !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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