paime Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Hi Folks! I'm new here but technically I receive 80% of my advice from this forum anyway so I feel like I know you all! I'm about to start the dreaded chassis replacement on my 90 TD5 in a couple of weeks so i'm planning on doing a mini-diary in case anyone is interested. Hopefully there won't be any images of an upside down land rover or gratuitous injuries to my person.... Re the galv chassis, I think i'm going to go with either Richards or Sheilder from TerrainTech. There's the option to have the whole thing coated in U-Pol Raptor bed liner which i'm quite tempted by. I like a black chassis and my other options are to have it powder coated (Sheilder do that themselves) or paint it myself with etch primer/Hammerite. Does anyone have any experience with the Raptor coating? Is it worth going for? Any issues with chassis/body fitment or earthing points? Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Hammerite is a great product - for applying to stone indoors. Don't use it on metal, unless you like welding. I'm going to use the raptor on my chassis, t-wash, raptor primer and then raptor, I think it's the best way to go, from what I've read. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil110 Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 agree with the evaluation of hammerite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Have used the Buzzweld galv chassis kit on mine , goes on nice and looks good Have just put some photo's up in my build thread . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 I used these on my galv chassis Mordant T wash,Jenolite Re-paint coach enamel primer , vehicle chassis black gloss, I wasn't aware of the Buzzweld paints until after my chassis change was completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 I wouldn't get it powder coated - water will get in/under the tiniest chip and it will all start to flake off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Buzzweld now doing a GIO (Galv in one) which is even more suited to a galv chassis than their CIO (Chassis in One) which is great. GIO is direct to new galv and doesn't need the Mordant-T etch first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gren_T Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 (edited) I'd not go with the raptor - I've found it chips easily on corners, on a chassis this will allow water behind it and it will creep under the rest of the coating and it will peel off in small sheets. If you dont like the galv look paint the chassis with T wash to get a key then use black chassis paint - "the paint man" does a good quality chassis paint If you really want to use a coating you can get the chassis plastic coated - I've done this on bumpers and wheel carriers, it's very durable but more suited to a show or road vehicle and will eventually get damaged off road or from stone chips. However you could go the Line-x bedliner route this is far superior to raptor and far more durable but is also much more expensive than raptor. Just my 2c based on experience. Regards Gren Edited August 11, 2018 by Gren_T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 21 hours ago, Gazzar said: Hammerite is a great product - for applying to stone indoors. Don't use it on metal, unless you like welding. I'm going to use the raptor on my chassis, t-wash, raptor primer and then raptor, I think it's the best way to go, from what I've read. G. I've had a similar experience with Hammerite before. I was hoping they'd sorted the formula out but all evidence and testimonials are to the contrary so i think i'll take your advice and leave it be. 12 hours ago, Gren_T said: If you dont like the galv look paint the chassis with T wash to get a key then use black chassis paint - "the paint man" does a good quality chassis paint I'd like to paint the chassis myself but in my experience i can never get paint to stick properly and have always ended up with either rust showing through (Hammerite) or flaking paint. Is it easy enough to get a decent, durable finish with T wash and chassis paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Hammerite is based on sand, I think, so it expands and contracts at a different rate to steel. Landrover chassis flex, the hammerite doesn't, and so it cracks, let's in water. Etc. If you go down the paint route, get as much zinc primer as you can. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjk76 Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Not used Raptor on my chassis, I just used red-oxide primer followed by chassis black followed by an annual waxoyl. I have however rebuilt a large trailer and used Raptor coat, I went for black on the chassis and green on the topsides (to match the Landrover) and I can confirm that it does indeed chip off on the corners and high use areas and water gets behind it and if there are any rust blisters in places sheets of the stuff fakes off. It's also quite hard to clean due to the textured finish, I am never sure about putting a pressure washer on it in case it just forces more water behind it. In my opinion, the brittleness of the finish would work against you using it on the chassis as its going to get chipped with every sone the flies up and once it starts to lift it's going to be a real PITA to refinish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 That's interesting, and disappointing. I'm trying to get away from the annual waxoil routine, so the search goes on for the apply once, and forget, solution. Can you get line-x for diy application? G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 T-wash and then two coats of POR15 on my chassis. It's held up to being bashed in the workshop OK, even on the edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Looks like T Wash is the product for me. Just need to place my chassis order now and get going. Thanks for the advice, folks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Twash is just the stuff to enable the painting of the galv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 On 8/13/2018 at 1:20 PM, landroversforever said: T-wash and then two coats of POR15 on my chassis. It's held up to being bashed in the workshop OK, even on the edges. This is important for Ross as his chassis will be in the workshop for ever 😂 Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Cruel Mo! It is actually progressing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe1 Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 and not to forget the old school method of spraying old engine oil on the chassis - leaves a nice smooth black patina, it's free. doesn't chip off and you can do it as often as you like. I used to do it on an old td5 disco rear chassis and it kept the rust at bay - that is until the 15p head decided to implode🤤. as long as you leave time for the oil drips to drip there's no oil on the road either. you do however need an old driveway with covers to do it on - a nice block paved suburban drive is not ideal!😲 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted August 22, 2018 Author Share Posted August 22, 2018 On 8/17/2018 at 11:59 AM, joe1 said: and not to forget the old school method of spraying old engine oil on the chassis - leaves a nice smooth black patina, it's free. doesn't chip off and you can do it as often as you like. I used to do it on an old td5 disco rear chassis and it kept the rust at bay - that is until the 15p head decided to implode🤤. as long as you leave time for the oil drips to drip there's no oil on the road either. you do however need an old driveway with covers to do it on - a nice block paved suburban drive is not ideal!😲 I heard of a similar approach to treating the internals. Someone told me to park on a slop (nose up) and then pour used engine oil through the dumb irons and let it work it's way to the rear cross member. It almost seems too easy but sometimes the old tricks are the best ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 IMO the engine oil ones are not a good idea.... No matter how you do it you're going to end up leaving oil on the roads. Not great for bikers and other road users. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerrymc123 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 If the chassis is galvanized, presuming it IS a new one ? I reckon you are best off T-washing it and brush painting good old chassis paint on it. I know its relatively soft, but its cheap and is easily touched in or recoated. Once you get a few coats on it, is adds some age, which I like ! Depends what you are trying to achieve. A workhorse, to disguise it, or make it a bit flash (thief magnet) Waxoyl is another sh1te Hammerite group product. Wouldn't waste ANY money on it all. For a few quid more, buy either Bilt Hamber, or Dinitrol and get something that actually works.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted August 26, 2018 Author Share Posted August 26, 2018 On 8/24/2018 at 7:53 PM, smallfry said: If the chassis is galvanized, presuming it IS a new one ? I reckon you are best off T-washing it and brush painting good old chassis paint on it. I know its relatively soft, but its cheap and is easily touched in or recoated. Once you get a few coats on it, is adds some age, which I like ! Depends what you are trying to achieve. A workhorse, to disguise it, or make it a bit flash (thief magnet) Waxoyl is another sh1te Hammerite group product. Wouldn't waste ANY money on it all. For a few quid more, buy either Bilt Hamber, or Dinitrol and get something that actually works.. Yup, it'll be a new galv chassis. It's certainly not a flashy wagon but i also want to stay away from the farm truck look. Essentially i'm looking for a robust matt black coating that won't discolour too quickly. Also want to stay away from brush marks but maybe that's a bridge too far without investing in some spraying equipment. Hammerite is horrific and i've never had a good result after i've used it. Doesn't matter how much i prime and prep, rust always shows through pretty quickly. I do like their waxoyl though and i've had some good results with that when i'm already working with a clean surface. I think T wash and then a buzzweld product for the top coat is the combo i'll go with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe1 Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 On 8/22/2018 at 11:51 AM, landroversforever said: IMO the engine oil ones are not a good idea.... No matter how you do it you're going to end up leaving oil on the roads. Not great for bikers and other road users. I can guarantee that never happens on my vehicles! - the idea is not to leave gallons sloshing around the chassis but just a thin coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 (edited) I sprayed Buzzweld CIO onto my new chassis after T-wash and a degrease. I used a Schutz gun for the second coat after brushing the first and it really finishes well, a nice matt finish. Edited August 26, 2018 by Peaklander A picture's worth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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