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World War Willys Jeep - from 1990 - Body mounted.


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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

would be lovely to have my own kit to do it ๐Ÿ˜›

just on that one I saw some on the MIG welding forum just a couple of days ago, older gear but might suit a DIY???

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3 hours ago, discomikey said:

Looking Great Daan!ย 

Thank you for your custom and we were glad to help! This is a thread I'd somehow missed until now but I'll certainly be following the build!ย 

Cheers!

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On 3/27/2021 at 8:04 AM, Anderzander said:

Iโ€™ve just been reading about the Roxor - which is pretty interesting...

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/the-mahindra-roxor-was-too-much-like-a-brand-new-willys-jeep/

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I love the roxor; and you can see it being popular in the US; It is only meant as a competitor to farm spec side by side vehicles, and as such is restricted to a certain speed, this is also to stop it from competing with Jeep. But there are a few you tube videos that show you how to remove the restriction and use it on the road.ย 

It is a great start as an offroader with dana 44 axles front and rear (as per the wrangler Rubicon jeep).

Daan

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yay ! An update !ย 
ย 

Couple of questions please:

What thickness is the chassis material?ย 
ย 

What did you use to put the bend in the 6mm plate? ย I had the devil of a job putting a neat bend in some a while back with a hammer and an edge.


ย 

ย 

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14 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

Yay ! An update !ย 
ย 

Couple of questions please:

What thickness is the chassis material?ย 
ย 

What did you use to put the bend in the 6mm plate? ย I had the devil of a job putting a neat bend in some a while back with a hammer and an edge.


ย 

ย 

Iโ€™ve bent thicker stuff with a map torch on it but itโ€™s not a crisp bend. Also done a tight bend done as a slit and weld.

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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

Yay ! An update !ย 
ย 

Couple of questions please:

What thickness is the chassis material?ย 
ย 

What did you use to put the bend in the 6mm plate? ย I had the devil of a job putting a neat bend in some a while back with a hammer and an edge.


ย 

ย 

The chassis main u section is 4mm I think, the inner u section 3mm from memory.

It was actually 5mm thick plate I used for the mountings. The fold I did by clamping the short part in a vice, and sandwich it between a thick plate and a 1 metre long piece of box section. The hole sandwich held together by G-clamps and bend it by hand using the box section as a lever.ย 

Will do some piccys if I make the spring plates, that will involve 1/4" plate.

Daan

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This is how I've bent 6mm plate. It gives a nice crisp bent but your limited by the size of the press, however to you can achieve longer bends than the tooling by shifting the work piece along and taking several bites.

IMAG1151.thumb.jpg.07228275d7e5ee53079063260ec9ca0a.jpg

I've since got a section of vee block to use underneath.

Mike

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  • 7 months later...

Here we are again, only 8 months since the last update! Live got in the way from spending time in the garage, but finally I am back on it. After fitting the springs, shock absorbers was the next logical thing to nail down. With the reduced friction in the spring packs, the job of the shock absorber has become a lot more important. In this application, gas pressure shocks are usually advised. I used Monroe gas magnum in Jeep cj5 fitment. They are available in many lengths, so I choose the ones which worked with the increased height of the parabolic springs. They get a good write up usually, and they still have the old fashioned metal dust covers, which mean they will look stock once painted army green.

The rears were easy to fit, using the original top mount and the CJ7 spring plate with mounts at the bottom:

large.IMG_8781.JPG.e151db73eb758dd91a5fe867ba96ee8e.JPG

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The fronts were more involved, on the right hand side there now a is a PAS box in the way. Conveniently, the front top crush tube is virtually in the correct position for the shock absorber mount, as well as the right diameter. So I removed the previously made crush tube and replaced it with a longer version, and a turned spacer was added to space the shock away from the chassis (glad I only tack welded the pas box mount!):

large.IMG_1262.jpg.6d7278ec45f1e34d684cf5f009863c1a.jpg

The other side has a clash issue with the wing, so I fabricated a new mount, identical to the original willys jeep:

large.IMG_1263.jpg.8af635a41f7c96df63bd22a8d9f9e976.jpg

Mounted, the shocks look like this:

large.IMG_8791.JPG.bc7144eb3b652989fe6035b9b6e64f59.JPG

The forward top PAS box bolt, now has 2 jobs: holding on the PAS box, and mounting the shock.

large.IMG_8792.JPG.a11be39276d840c228cc327c63409460.JPG

Lh side, the spring plate problem for the front axle was also solved with rear Jeep CJ7 spring plates.

You may have noticed my shiny new front axle: I managed to buy a narrow Dana 30 front axle from a Jeep CJ5. This is much better design of axle compared to the previous Dana 27; It is much stronger, and very common (it is still being used on the new Jeep Wrangler). Spares are much easier to find should you need it and the after market support is very good for ratios, shafts, diffs etc. It is also direct fit to a willys jeep without modifications. This makes it convenient to fit, and means no points are lost under the radically altered points scheme. It came about cheap locally with a 4.27 ratio, which is what I am planning to use, replacing old the 4.88 ratio. It also had freewheel hubs fitted. So buying this means I only need to change the rear axle ratio, and therefore saved me money (Man maths at its best!):

large.IMG_8787.JPG.830d21e699d5bd07005c434e62c41190.JPG

So this is some future proofing as I now have a dana 30 at the front, and Dana 44 at the rear, which are the 2 best supported axles in the US.ย 

Thanks for reading!

Daan

ย 

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Great to see this pop up - and itโ€™s looking fabulous.ย 

I love the way you are upgrading but keeping the look and feel of things right.

Im still thinking that having that readymade body means you are going to reach a point where you suddenly make a massive leap in progress ๐Ÿ˜€

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