World War Willys Jeep - from 1990 - Body mounted.

[Stellaghost]

19 minutes ago, Daan said:

Your workshop is the stuff of dreams!

It's the stuff of tripping hazards and mog axle jigs and formers at the moment.......

I will need a clear out once finished........

Scrap or keep said jigs and formers yet to be decided.....

Regards Stephen 

[Daan]

Here we are again, with an update; it took a while, but I spent a lot of time to get to this point:

With the engine mounted, there are still a few things to sort out to make this engine work in the jeep. There are some serious clashing problems with the LH chassis rail to the oil filter, the alternator, the PAS pump, and the viscous fan. Neither of these is easily solvable, they are proper head-on train crash stuff.

The Oil filter problem was solved by changing the filter for a shorter one, of a Vauxhall Omega V6; it is about half the length of the VW one, at the expense of a non-return valve and an overflow valve. It now clears the chassis rail with some distance:

And this is where the simple solutions ended: the other problems had to be solved by moving parts to other places. The alternator had to move to the RH side of the engine, in the space for the AC pump, and the PAS pump moved upwards to clear the chassis rail, and essentially in the position where it sits in the Golf. A bracket was made up soon enough for the PAS pump:

On the RH side, a bracket was made up to hold the alternator, and I searched for ways to move the viscous fan as well. I much prefer the viscous fan over an electric fan for an off-road vehicle. All this then needs some form of tensioner as well, since the original one now does not work in its position where it is. I Essentially had to re-designing the accessory drive, and this is where it went very quickly from ‘how hard can it be’ to the one problem that kept me awake at night. There is only one place where the tensioner can be, which is next to the crank pulley at the un-tensioned part of the belt. In this position, it also increases the belt wrap around the crank pulley and the alternator pulley. Several automotive tensioners were tried, but none of them looked like I could get to work. The clock springs in these are usually massive, and there just isn’t the space required. Then I looked at linear spring versions. The Mondeo MK3 diesel tensioner is the one I went with. The dimensions of the arm aren’t quite right, but I used the spring, the pulley, and the bearings of this and fabricated my own version of the tensioner arm:

 There were quite a few turned parts required for all the changes in the accessory drive, I got these done to my drawings by Darren at Bushes2U.com. His work was spot on, well-recommended:

 The alternator, tensioner, and viscous fan bearing are all incorporated in this fabricated bracket:

 

All assembled it looks like this:

Mounted to the engine:

On the engine, anticlockwise from the crank pulley, there is the water pump pulley, an idler pulley (this was the location of the viscous fan), another idler pulley (The old tensioner, changed to a smooth pulley), PAS pump, and viscous fan shaft. The viscous fan used to be driven by the smooth side of the belt, but in this position, it gets driven by the ribbed side of the belt. This meant 2 things; the pulley needs changing for a ribbed pulley, and the rotation is now the opposite way. I solved the ribbed pulley problem by using a Ford Fiesta ribbed pulley, welded to the old pulley and I swapped the fan for a version of the VW Passat with a petrol engine. This fan bolts on the diesel viscous coupling.

Last but not least, a longer Fan belt completed the job.

Thanks for reading, things are moving, but slowly!

Daan

 

[steve b]

That reworking of the drive belt and services is super neat Daan. 

It looks factory built up.

Steve

[landroversforever]

That's a lovely bit of re-engineering Daan. 

[Anderzander]

Gosh - hard work !  But great result.

[B reg 90]

Superb effort. That’s not a simple job to do right

[Daan]

Time for an update: I did a bit more engine-related stuff on the Jeep; The engine came into my possession without an ECU. This, and the fact that I am useless with electronics made me decide to run the engine without any electronics. You can replace the pump on this engine with a mechanical injection pump. This is called an M-TDI in VW circles. The pump I use comes from a Land Rover 300 TDI which has similar power output to the VW. I got a pump off Ed Poores pile of spare TDI parts; He even delivered it to my work.

To fit it to the VW engine, a few mods are needed: the VW pump bracket needs slots so you can rotate the pump to set the timing, and the center bore diameter needs to be taken out from 50mm to 68mm.

So I took the bracket to the machine shop: I fitted an 8mm cutter tool to my router and create the slots. The 50mm hole saw is a tight fit in the 50mm bore, so I clamped it to the router to use this as the fulcrum:

Once the slots are done, I opened the centre bore. You can fit 2 hole saws to one Arbor and so use the 50mm hole saw as the guide for the 68mm hole saw to cut a hole in the center of the bracket.

Bracket modified:

Also on Ed’s pump, the bracket on the back of the pump for the 4^th bolt need modifying to fit to the land rover pump. I ended up sandwiching the VW bracket with the land rover throttle cable bracket. Also, the delivery valves on the back of the pump need to be swapped for the VW ones, as the land rover valves are much longer:

With the ECU not present, I also needed to make a mod to the turbo. It is a VNT turbo, or Variable Nozzle Turbine. This is normally operated by vacuum through a box of tricks by the ECU.

I converted it to pressure activation using a wastegate actuator. The one I got is a Forge motorsport piston actuator. This can be taken apart so you can change the spring for a different stiffness to change the characteristics of the Turbo. The usual purpose for this is to increase the turbo pressure, here it is to set up the VNT. I got the actuator with a box of springs, so plenty of scope to setup the turbo correctly. The actuator is generic but fits to the VW actuator bracket. I just needed to shorten the actuator rod and turn buckle.

The most bling part on my jeep so far:

 

I also rotated the turbine housing to point upwards, to help the routing of the intake pipe.

While at this side of the engine, I replaced the inlet manifold for a Golf version. The Passat intake manifold points to the rear of the car, the Golf version points to the front. The manifold came from the BRM code golf engine, this has the best flow rate of all the TDI manifolds made by VW (an American tuning geek flow bench tested all the manifold options, and the BRM version came out as best.)

Lh Passat AFN, Rh Golf BRM

 

All done, it looks like this:

 

Thanks for reading!

Daan

[miketomcat]

I love the use of a router as a mill very ingenious. The holes saw trick I use regularly at work but just a note not all arbors/mandrills have a long enough centre thread to do this.

Mike

[Anderzander]

You’re a clever chap Daan. Great work.

[Daan]

Time for an update: with the body still off and the turbo mounted, the exhaust was the next logical thing to do.

A stainless exhaust is the done thing here appropriately sized to the engine. I went with a 2 1/4” size tube, one size up from the 2” that the VW Passat has.

I have previously done a stainless exhaust on my Landy, using individual bends and straight sections welded together to form a fabricated exhaust. It works ok to this day, but I always thought there must be a better way to do this, as you do end up with a lot of welded joints.

 So I was looking to get an exhaust bent up. To do this I needed to get coordinate points measured in 3D space. I started a mockup exhaust with some leftover tubes:

 Ghetto fab at its best basically, but this was done to decide where the tubes need to go.

From here I could measure the intersection points of the center lines in 3D: I used the gearbox mounting face as my X=0 datum, the outer edge of the RH chassis rail as my Y=0 datum, and the garage floor as my Z=0 datum. From this, I could measure with a tape measure the X, Y, and Z coordinates of the center line intersections. Once I had these points I had to do a shift of the coordinates so the first coordinate point is X=0, Y=0, Z=0.

Next, I drew this on CAD to visualize how it would look. This is not strictly necessary but is good to make sure you do not design something that can not be made. There is a certain amount of minimum straight length required between bends, I had to do a few adjustments in my design to achieve this.

CAD model:

CAD drawing:

I got a company appropriately called tube bender to do the bending:

https://tube-bender.co.uk/

A CNC mandrel bender can bend the exhaust using the X, Y, and Z coordinates as the input.

This turned up in the post a while later:

 Tube bender did a great job to turn my drawing into reality; the bent tube came out spot-on and fitted like a glove.

A 12 x 6” silencer, flexible join, and V-band clamps were bought from Exhaust Parts UK:

https://exhaustpartsuk.com/

Mounting was a doddle and very little workshop time was needed to get it mounted:

 All joints are left tacked together for now, in case I need to change anything.

Pleased with the result, bending up a tube like this was cheaper than buying the individual bends and straights, and looks a bit more factory.

 Thanks for reading!

[landroversforever]

That’s lovely! I’ve seen similar where people have done the mock up bit and then they’ve scanned it (for those without CAD skills/software. 

[dangerous doug]

Very nice work and a perfect example of the 6 Ps (5 Ps to some)

[Bowie69]

Pleased? I'd be over the moon. 

I hate exhausts, and that solved just about all the problems in one go. 

[Blanco]

Just love that 👍

[FridgeFreezer]

That's very impressive - and very interesting!

Got me thinking about combining that with a bit of 3D photogrammetry to capture the whole complicated mess without the need to mock anything up - feels like it would be easier to wrangle a virtual pipe through a 3D scan than have to do it rolling around the garage flooor

[Anderzander]

That’s outstanding 👏🏻 

[Daan]

4 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

That's very impressive - and very interesting!

Got me thinking about combining that with a bit of 3D photogrammetry to capture the whole complicated mess without the need to mock anything up - feels like it would be easier to wrangle a virtual pipe through a 3D scan than have to do it rolling around the garage flooor

Cheers,

The trouble with scanned surfaces is the shear size of them, and of the processing power required to spin the model like they do here. It also is not that accurate and consists of a cloud of points. I suspect things have moved on and there will be ways to turn them into surfaces, but whenever I was given scanned surfaces, they were pretty wonky, not straight basically. You always have to back it up with hand measurements in my experience. Good for scenery of your model, but not particularly reliable geometry.

I have used a Faro arm coordinate measurement machine in the past to design roll cage legs. You just hold tubes in the place where you want it and measure 6 points (3 on each end) on the tube to establish the locations of the center lines in space. The software spit out a bend formula of what shape to bend the tube.

The way I did it here was with minimum technology so to speak.

I have CAD, so I used it but could have worked out the space between bends on paper if need be. So you don't strictly need CAD.

[elbekko]

48 minutes ago, Daan said:

The trouble with scanned surfaces is the shear size of them, and of the processing power required to spin the model like they do here. It also is not that accurate and consists of a cloud of points. I suspect things have moved on and there will be ways to turn them into surfaces, but whenever I was given scanned surfaces, they were pretty wonky, not straight basically. You always have to back it up with hand measurements in my experience. Good for scenery of your model, but not particularly reliable geometry.

It's only a small part, but he seems to manage to get pretty reliable measurements off it:

I tried some photogrammetry a while back when designing the little power strip to replace the ashtray in my P38. It worked ok to get a general idea of the curves necessary and such, but still needed a bunch of actual measurements, as you said.

Really good job on that exhaust!

[Daan]

With the exhaust done, it is time to get the body fitted. My brother-in-law came over from Prague with his 2 lads to come and visit Goodwood FOS, so I had 3 bodies at my disposal to lift the tub on:

I knew it essentially fits, but a few details need modding: one body mount on the chassis needs to move 30mm forward:

The gear tower on the gearbox sits higher and therefore needed a larger hole cutting in the tunnel:

This is essentially all it needs to fit the Willys M38 body on to the Mahindra chassis. Further mods were needed as a result of fitting the PAS box and the VW engine.

The body mount clashed with the oil filter, solved with a grinder:

The PAS box is clashing with the RH front wing. There is a large speed bulge for the battery, and this almost clears the PAS box. I just needed to move the front joggle forwards by 50mm:

On the LH side, the PAS pump pully interferes with the wing. I did a big cutout where the reinforcement rib is and made this the location of a step in the vertical portion of the wing. An intended dent is there to avoid the PAS pump feed pipe, and I extended the cut out for the shock absorber:

The Willys grille just bolts onto the Mahindra grille mounts, but there is a 3^rd mount in the middle on the Willys grille, which the Mahindra chassis does not have, so I made a bracket (no picture).

Mounted, it all looks like this:

It now looks like a proper car, which is a great motivator. I think the front height looks about right, but the rear sits far too high. Not sure what to do here yet:

Thanks for reading!

[Nonimouse]

Daan, have you seen any of Brenna Metcalf's Flat Fender stuff?

[Daan]

9 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:

Daan, have you seen any of Brenna Metcalf's Flat Fender stuff?

Tell me more.

Daan

[Nonimouse]

5 hours ago, Daan said:

Tell me more.

Daan

Nice American chap. Lives in Colorado. He's the modified Flat Fender guru, and 225c Oddfire V6 guru. His thing is biggest tyre on no lift. But he's very switched on. 

You'll find his various build right ups on Pirate and Overland Forum. He's also on FB under his name, and the on the FB Flat Fender page. His 'hobby' is here https://brennans-garage.com/

Genuinely nice bloke, very black and white though

[Anderzander]

Fabulous to see you making progress with this Daan 😀

[Daan]

4 hours ago, Nonimouse said:

Nice American chap. Lives in Colorado. He's the modified Flat Fender guru, and 225c Oddfire V6 guru. His thing is biggest tyre on no lift. But he's very switched on. 

You'll find his various build right ups on Pirate and Overland Forum. He's also on FB under his name, and the on the FB Flat Fender page. His 'hobby' is here https://brennans-garage.com/

Genuinely nice bloke, very black and white though

I saw that website on my trawls of Google. Sounds like he uses the same principles on his Jeep that I used on my Land Rover.