Tom Grant Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 Hello I drove my 1995 300dti 110 through a deep river but nothing to serious only came up the the top of the wheel, i didn't stop and kept a constant pace. the river was only two meters wide. for this i selected high range locked diff ( right choice, maybe, maybe not). When getting out on the other side with no issues i proceeded to put the car back into working diff, and this is when i had the issue! I could select the right ratio however when trying to pull away it made a horrible grinding sound and i had no drive what so ever (absolutely nothing) put it back into locked diff and i have drive. so my problem is i am now stuck in locked diff, both high and low ratio work fine. Both high and low in working differential both slot to where they should however when selecting any gear i have the grinding sound!! any ideas on what the problem might be??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 If you say that you have drive with the difflock selected and none without, that would point to the centre diff being damaged I think. You might want to check the hole drive train by jacking a wheel up and checking for noises when you spin a wheel. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yostumpy Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 Could be a drive spline stripped, the bolt on covers on the end of the axle. Jack each corner with it in gear, and diff locked, and if you can spin the wheel with some associated noise, the it's prob just the cover that's stripped. also check the diff lock lever mech isn't seized , and it's not "between" locked / unlocked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 42 minutes ago, Yostumpy said: Could be a drive spline stripped, the bolt on covers on the end of the axle. Jack each corner with it in gear, and diff locked, and if you can spin the wheel with some associated noise, the it's prob just the cover that's stripped. also check the diff lock lever mech isn't seized , and it's not "between" locked / unlocked This. I suspect it's a selection problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 4 minutes ago, Gazzar said: I suspect it's a selection problem. Me too, go for the easy/cheap explanation first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Grant Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 cheers guys, will take a look at the mechanism first, fingers crossed its something silly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300tditaffy Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 (edited) Find some nice level ground and select low box and unlock the diff lock and seclect first gear have someone to take a look at the propshaft and see if any of them are turning. If one is turning then the problem will be with that axle, it could be a drive member, cv joint or a diff Edited February 16, 2020 by 300tditaffy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 sometimes you have to reverse to make the diff lock disengage & put the warning light out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Grant Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 11 hours ago, western said: sometimes you have to reverse to make the diff lock disengage & put the warning light out. I’ve tried both forward and revers in both low and high when disengaging diff lock, the warning light does go out. Doesn’t matter what gear I’m in I still get the grinding sound, all propshafts turn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 most likely your linkages that engage diff lock ON/OFF are loose and this results in the dog clutch that locks your diff not disengaging properly causing it to "rattle"/"grind" on the edge of the engaging teeth. as many have said above check your linkages first, I know its a PITA because you can't get in there properly but its a common problem, specially if the transmission has been worked on the the mechanics were confuzzled by the linkages and the need for the "little plastic bits" in the linkages that make them work properly.....I know I had to speak very loudly (shout) at my mechanics before they decided to understand 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 There is no "false neutral" between difflock and open diff , do the test Taffy outlined to find which axle is affected then pop the rubber end caps off that axle to see the end of the half shafts and do the test again to check the drive member splines . If neither are stripped it will be something inside . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Most likely a broken axle. See advice from 300tditaffy above. The diff lock does not have a neutral position and they do not lose drive. When they fail they fail in a locked position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toenden Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Hi. What do you mean by "all propshafts turn"? Only one or none should be turning when stationary and no difflock. Try to put it in gear and release the clutch with no difflock engage. If no forward motion, then lightly engage the handbrake, if you get forward motion, then it is the rearaxle if not, the have a look at the front. /Mads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Grant Posted February 22, 2020 Author Share Posted February 22, 2020 Okay so after a week of sh*t weather I’ve been reluctant to get under but now I’ve had a look I believe its the mechanism it’s self not engaging unlocked properly, which would explain the obscene amount of play in the stick which I never really noticed until now. Sorting it out this weekend! Massively appreciate all the advice and help. ill be sure to post an update once it’s sorted! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 If you have no drive without difflock in either high or low, it will not be a selection problem but something broken. Do the test to check if/which propshaft is turning and then check that axle. It could be diff, driveshafts, CVs (if front) or if you're lucky just the drive member on the hub. Do keep us posted! Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Grant Posted March 7, 2020 Author Share Posted March 7, 2020 Okay gents after finally pulling out the cv joints and half shafts I’ve found my issue (see attached images) looks to me like the cv joints are a bit tired. 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 Yes thats dead, on another note --- brake caliper, spliting them i not recommended, you should replace the 2 internal gallery seals before bolting the halves back together, the seals are LR part number 17H8764L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Grant Posted March 7, 2020 Author Share Posted March 7, 2020 6 hours ago, western said: Yes thats dead, on another note --- brake caliper, spliting them i not recommended, you should replace the 2 internal gallery seals before bolting the halves back together, the seals are LR part number 17H8764L thats a great tip, i didn't know that so thank you. its been a first for me stripping out the half shafts so been a bit of an experience for me. i've got a big order as while i'm at it my pads need replacing as well as wheel bearings and drive flanges. Really appreciate all the help!! As far as putting it all back together, is there anything i should be aware of that needs doing, will i need to pre load the axles when the the adjuster nuts go back on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 make sure you when you refit the caliper together, apply some brake fluid to the seals & the bolts are tight. for the hub bearings once refitted adjust the inner nut so there is minimal play, then fit the lock washer & outer nut, tighten outer nut & then bend over the lock washer so each nut is locked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Grant Posted March 7, 2020 Author Share Posted March 7, 2020 22 minutes ago, western said: make sure you when you refit the caliper together, apply some brake fluid to the seals & the bolts are tight. for the hub bearings once refitted adjust the inner nut so there is minimal play, then fit the lock washer & outer nut, tighten outer nut & then bend over the lock washer so each nut is locked Fantastic. Thank you very much! I’ll post the outcome when it’s all fitted. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 9 hours ago, western said: ... for the hub bearings once refitted adjust the inner nut so there is minimal play, then fit the lock washer & outer nut, tighten outer nut & then bend over the lock washer so each nut is locked to be honest ... switch to the later TD5 system with the distance between the bearings and only one nut wherever possible. This system will last significantly longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Really Sigi ? I'd stick with 2 nuts adjustability for maintenance and ease of wheel bearing adjustment. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 1 hour ago, Sigi_H said: to be honest ... switch to the later TD5 system with the distance between the bearings and only one nut wherever possible. This system will last significantly longer Really. I much prefer two nuts an lock washer. Always use a new lock washer otherwise the nuts tend to sit in the groves of the old one maanng the bearings are not correctly adjusted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 (edited) some prefer adjustability, some prefer endurance. The distance in the bearing will always stay the same, because it depends to the hub. As long as you do not change the hub, distance will stay the same. Imho it is important to really fix the inner rings of the bearings. If they can't move, the stub axle will stay in better condition, as long as the seal is ok. Adjusting the bearings never is good for long time Edited March 8, 2020 by Sigi_H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 The Td5 hub nuts are a pain to work on, the original 2 nut system is much more users friendly for the majority of LR owners. saves having to mess about with DTI's & different spacer distances, its OK for normal cars but not on a 4x4 where it may need repair in the field. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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