Stellaghost Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 2 hours ago, Anderzander said: I love those 4 spoke wheels. That's what I have in Sid the Roach, regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 I dig the LR Australia badge, nice touch. Another fan of the skinny steering wheels here too, especially on hot sweaty days. All those soft squishy plastics love to deteriorate and/or grow mushrooms if left unattended 🤮 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 I thought the older wheels were splined differently and so not a straight swap?🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 The older ones are all 36 spline I think, later on they started to introduce 48 spline - but 36 stayed on some specs. So for example my Td5 HT had 48, whilst the Td5 CSW I have now is 36. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 I can't remember what my 300 Tdi is, but would love a retro steering wheel, too. I'd take the standard over any sporty replacement as I find the big diameter and shape are comfortable for me, sadly it's wearing on top and won't get better with time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 Looks like the 300’s are all 48 spline? https://www.web-rover.co.uk/nav.php?p=articles/steeringwheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 Yes, 48 spline in my 98’ 110, 36 spline for the early steering wheel. given its age I figured it not a bad idea to renew the shafts, unis etc so a new column isn’t the end of the world. I do wonder if the later column stalks (switch’s) are compatible with the earlier column and wheel? I know there are different part numbers for them?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 different plugs/sockets & dash area loom on the 300tdi onwards column switches, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 11 minutes ago, western said: different plugs/sockets & dash area loom on the 300tdi onwards column switches, So just the electrical side of things, the mechanics of the stalks working with the column and wheel is ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 Yes, just remember to transfer the metal prongs that operate the indicator self cancel on steering wheel to the 'new' steering whel, thats all I did when I swapped from the ols 4 spoke to my Td5XS leather covered 36 spline wheel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 On 1/23/2022 at 7:28 AM, western said: Yes, just remember to transfer the metal prongs that operate the indicator self cancel on steering wheel to the 'new' steering whel, thats all I did when I swapped from the ols 4 spoke to my Td5XS leather covered 36 spline wheel. I just dug out my original steering wheel….. umm, yep , that ain’t happening lol. The metal prong is part of the hub/spline section bonded into the wheel. While the later prongs are thicker, they are very close to the same width and only 1mm difference ID between prongs. Offering up the blue collar ( that the prongs engage) it seems it will work. Only time will tell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share Posted January 30, 2022 (edited) I got sick of fabricating press beams and not working on the 110 lol, so I fluffed about a bit and did some work on the rear of chassis. I made a couple plywood templates to locate my custom crossmember in its new location 200mm forward of the factory position. It also allowed me start the chassis prep. Still LOTS to do to finalise this. Edited January 30, 2022 by uninformed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 What are you doing for a fuel tank now the space is 200 mm shorter? Perentie, series, or custom.....🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 2 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said: What are you doing for a fuel tank now the space is 200 mm shorter? Perentie, series, or custom.....🤔 Custom rear and sill tank. Finding a Td5 90 rear tank in Australia would be very hard. Perentie or Series tanks won’t bolt in due to the fact I’ve moved the RA,TA and body mount locations. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post uninformed Posted February 6, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 6, 2022 I got the chance to go to a mates workshop and use his lathe yesterday. Turning lots of crush tubes for the rear crossmember. Laser cut and folded C section for rear crossmember - 3mm mild steel. Basic layout of attachments. Crush tubes (I still have 4 smaller to make). Forward side inner web. closer pic of the crush tubes showing the stepped shoulder (each end) that locates in the laser cut holes. And fitment to holes. The chassis rail extensions will be welded right in to the inside face of web of main C section, with the inner web being cut either side of rails. There will also be another overlay on the rear outside face with smaller flanges to add strength, probably 2.5mm thickness. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 (edited) Very nice fab, looks suitably heavy duty too, enjoying this thread can't wait to see your tigtasticness on this regards Stephen Edited February 6, 2022 by Stellaghost 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toenden Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 Looks good! Was thinking, that I would take of the inner lip as it will work as a mudtrap? If it only was to the edge of the inner plate, mud and crud would simply slip off? (I always think that I should have changed this before I galvd my original chassis... 🙂) /mads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 34 minutes ago, toenden said: Looks good! Was thinking, that I would take of the inner lip as it will work as a mudtrap? If it only was to the edge of the inner plate, mud and crud would simply slip off? (I always think that I should have changed this before I galvd my original chassis... 🙂) /mads A few reasons to keep it. Cross sectional area of flanges and webs (along with distance from the nuteral axis) determines strength. I was going to move the inner web out to create a neat box, but I looked at how LR attached the rear of the fuel tank and figured it would allow those attachments to be under the lip and have the tank fill the available space. It also gives room for the plates, washers and nuts of all the hardware. Mud is not a big problem for me, and I'm pretty good at keeping on top of cleaning. The LR crossmember has a few traps, mainly crevice corrosion due to overlapping plates with only spot or stitch welds and no seam sealer. I'll have plenty of drain holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 That cross member is a thing of beauty ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toenden Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 On 2/6/2022 at 9:45 AM, uninformed said: A few reasons to keep it. Cross sectional area of flanges and webs (along with distance from the nuteral axis) determines strength. I was going to move the inner web out to create a neat box, but I looked at how LR attached the rear of the fuel tank and figured it would allow those attachments to be under the lip and have the tank fill the available space. It also gives room for the plates, washers and nuts of all the hardware. Mud is not a big problem for me, and I'm pretty good at keeping on top of cleaning. The LR crossmember has a few traps, mainly crevice corrosion due to overlapping plates with only spot or stitch welds and no seam sealer. I'll have plenty of drain holes. I was thinking along the path of moving the innerweb, but it does make sense to be able to mount the tank on/to the lip 🙂 The biggest proble on the original is the double plate as you mention, but it always supprises me the amount of ...ehh... material and roaddirt that is able to collect on the lip (and on top of the crossmember 🙂) BUT! You got it covered, carry on please! 🤣 /mads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 All good mate 👍, different views are good, I can’t think of everything. Given your conditions it’s something that I can understand is an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Very neat. I personally made it into a box section, to avoid the mentioned mud accumulation problem. but that does not stop mud accumulating above it... Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share Posted February 12, 2022 To quote the great BS, “ Oops…. I did it again “ Doesn’t look like much, but left with a big hole and a limp… 🤦🏻♂️ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 ouch, nasty, make sure you cleaned it well shorts are not what you need to be wearing when metal working, ask me how I know, neither are training shoes ( not that you were wearing trainers ) especially when you drop a 12" 4 jaw chuck into them, again, ask me how I know lol ? Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 Ooh nasty, ... I hope it missed everything vital. I guess overalls are too hot to wear but might have helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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