Peaklander Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 Any restriction causes a pressure drop across it doesn’t it? I think that’s what the filter comparison says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 Yes, but the pressure switch is *before* the cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 Are we sure the switch is before the cooler as that would explain a lot. On another note I've established that I can do 350 miles on a tank full. But that was full to run out. It took 65 ltr to refill but the seal on the sender/pick up is weeping. The guage seems to be relatively accurate the light came on solid at 300 miles. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 12, 2018 Share Posted September 12, 2018 Sounds good with the warning light, my Mini light comes on with 50miles left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 Oil and filter change this morning. I've fitted a genuine filter though looking inside they certainly look similar. I also took the opportunity to re visit the oil cooler ports. inlet and output were like this it measures 5.5mm the tube from the filter housing is 9.5mm id. Some very carefully drilling later, that looks a bit better. Hopefully this will solve the problem of low oil pressure at tick over after a run. Mike 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Interesting. How do you deal with swarf when doing that, jam a vacuum cleaner pipe next to the drill? Also how do the oil pipes locate there, I can’t see any thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 36 minutes ago, Peaklander said: Interesting. How do you deal with swarf when doing that, jam a vacuum cleaner pipe next to the drill? Also how do the oil pipes locate there, I can’t see any thread? I've found if you use a thick cutting compound like Rocol and have a decent drill (Presta / Dorma and it's sharp) you can get most of it stuck to the cutting grease if you take it slow. You've got to be careful not to snap the bits, or if you've got a torquey drill like my Milwaukee, your wrist . I don't think the photo shows it well but I think it's an external thread, you can just make out one or two threads possibly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 (edited) The thread is on the outside. The pipe has a swage on it with an o-ring between it and the spigot on the rad. The nut pulls up on the back side of the swage. Swarf was felt with by having the radiator leaning back towards the drill taking it nice and slow so it cuts nice curly swarf that you can just pull out then clean anything else out when done. The core in there was close to where I was drilling (you can see a little damage in the second pic) so there was next to no room for swarf to drop inwards. Mike Edited September 16, 2018 by miketomcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 I should have looked more closely at your radiator but it sounds like the connections are just the same as on my 300. Ok on the swarm comments too! It all helps. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 Well I've had two good motorway runs today. No flickering oil pressure light. Sopping wet foot but the lights out. So now I need to investigate the leak that drips on the throttle pedal. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 Are you going to Ibex-fest Mike? I keep seeing it pop up on my Facebook feed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 I wanted to but it a long way north and can't justify the expense at the moment unfortunately. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 Glad you got to the bottom of the flickering light, could have been one you ended up chasing around for ages if you hadn't remembered about the smaller holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 29, 2018 Author Share Posted September 29, 2018 Winch is now wired up. Second battery fitted and split charge wired unfortunately it seems my vsr has gone belly up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 So the Ibex Vector winch is under the 2nd row? Feeds out the back then around a roller and back to the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 30, 2018 Author Share Posted September 30, 2018 Yes, normally it has a snatch block in the rear crossmember held in with a removable pin. Mine has a fixed pulley in the Crossmember, mainly due to my tank guard and removable tow bar. Then round a pulley in the chassis leg and down a tube to the front. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted September 30, 2018 Share Posted September 30, 2018 Cheers Mike, I always wondered how the Ibex Vector winching system was packaged as its something I wanted to implement on my 90 rebuild. Its the same set up as my Scammell Explorer to be honest and very similar to the Nokken winch on the 101FC. If you want to winch from the rear I guess you will just pick the rope off the rear pulley and hook a snatch block on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 30, 2018 Author Share Posted September 30, 2018 6 hours ago, NRS91 said: If you want to winch from the rear I guess you will just pick the rope off the rear pulley and hook a snatch block on? Yes exactly that. I didn't like the idea of a snatch block in the rear 1, because it has no bearings the pulleys I have fitted do. 2, I was always going to be running plasma which tends to be loser when stowed thus allowing the snatch to rattle and 3, the standard set up only has rollers on each side of the hole in the rear crossmember which means any up or down angle and the plasma will run over a sharp edge. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 so the silver block that holds your pulley also has a sort of hawse fairlead? Any link to the rear pulley? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 The pulley is mounted in the crossmember with an Ali cheek to keep the rope on the pulley. The Ali Hawse is bolted over the hole to close it down to rope size. picture is looking backwards over the fuel tank. I can't remember where I got the pulleys from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 Ok Mike, thanks for the extra detail! I love this build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 Today I've established that the freespool engages and disengages a lot better if the gear carrier is in the right way round. Just got to put it back in now. Mike 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post miketomcat Posted October 6, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 6, 2018 Earnt it's keep today. Moved a friend's 25 foot ranger about 3.5ton all up. Made it work up some of the hills and the gearing is definitely a little tall. But she did admirably, the temp guage stayed put in the middle and the oil pressure light didn't even flicker. Mike 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 Well Done !! Looking very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 I always reckon towing is the acid test, nice trailer there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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