Replacing capping with galvanized ones, where not to order

[repmek16]

Hi there,

in the proces of replacing a damaged wing and rear panel I also wanted to replace the rear crossmember and the body cappings on my MY2006 TD5 90 CSW XS. As the RH bodycapping was slightly bent due to the inpact that damaged the rear panel I thought it would be wise to buy a new one, and then galvanized. As it started to rust allready. Searching for these Items led me to a company called YRM metal solutions.

I ordered the cappings (being advertized as being cappings for a 90 defender CSW) there. On arrival these turn out to miss the hole in the corner of the cappign where the main bolt to hold the windowframe is located. I wrote a e-mail to this company including the pictures I enclose here, showing the problem and telling them i ordered a galvanized item which you rather not modify because of change of rust. I got this reaction:

Thanks for your email and images.

Yes, these are genuine land rover 90 CSW cappings , as we buy these from land rover.

The images on the website are the same as the ones provided to yourself and the image you have supplied.

All I can think of, is land rover have altered them from 2006 to 2015, to accommodate the forward facing seats, I would match drill your body to suit the capping and bolt in place.

Now for one I wrote I have a MY2006 defender which is a TD5 not a TD4, secondly, I have checked my neighbours car (a 99 defender) which has the same bolt in the same place, so BTW does the TD4.

Clearly the customer is to blame because he ordered on discription, not by picture, and now I have to modify my car. I´m not going to sent them back because i get the (horrific) shippingcost not restituted.

Now as YRM claimes to use original LR cappings where did this go wrong? All the 90 CSW I checked have this bolt. I see lots of Item on the net, including in this forum, that show this bolt in this place. I can even state that I haven´t seen a picture of the rear tub where this bolt is NOT in this place.

Anyway I´m not ordering at YRM anymore, Pity for them because now I know that it takes less then a day´s work to do both sides, I get paid handsomely to do 3 others with rusty cappings!

if the originals cappings are not bend I strongly advise to have them gavanized. If they are bent, you are better of buying originals (for instance at SP for 58 pounds) and have these shotblasted and galvanized. Still saves you money on the YRM deal (199 pounds for 2).

Willem.

[landroversforever]

I've got some new genuine YRM ones to fit later on in the build. Mine have the holes if I remember correctly? but not the same as my old ones.

[Anderzander]

I have some YRM ones stashed ready to fit - they were genuine new Land Rover ones they had galvanised.

They are one piece as opposed to welded, though I haven't checked them against the existing ones.

[landroversforever]

My guess is that LR have changed their design slightly over the years then.

[Anderzander]

Is it not as simple as Land Rover supply them with the hole needing to be drilled ? And the solution is as simple as drilling them ?

Am I missing something ?

[mickeyw]

Is it not as simple as Land Rover supply them with the hole needing to be drilled ? And the solution is as simple as drilling them ?

Am I missing something ?

But when you have ordered a galvanised part, the last thing you want to have to do is chop a hole in it, and hence lose the benefit of it being galvanised!!!

[landroversforever]

LR aren't going to want something to have to be drilled on the production line though I'd have thought?

[mickeyw]

LR aren't going to want something to have to be drilled on the production line though I'd have thought?

Having done the Defender production line tour a couple of weeks ago, we did see certain items having holes created according to build spec.

However this is not just a missing hole, as you need to weld the clamping tube in too. Such a feature would not really fit with any variation in built without there being two separate part numbers. Even on a truck cab model you still get the holes in the capping in case want to add a tilt frame.

[pete3000]

Ah but theres a different part for truck cab/van option C

[landroversforever]

That's a good point, and I hadn't thought of, they do do different types for van/pickup and SW. I bought the SW ones so I wouldn't have to chop them for my bulkhead removal bar.

[mickeyw]

Ah but theres a different part for truck cab/van option C

Could you expand on this Pete? I am aware that there are single piece and two piece rear cappings

Obviously there would be different parts for a 110 SW vs 110 truck cab.

With a 90 there is a difference at the front dependant on whether you have a centre bulkhead fitted, but all variants have the holes at the rear corner to secure the roof.

[landroversforever]

It would seem not on the latest ones Michael, pictures are on the YRM website .

[Scotts90]

Ok, after a bit of digging...

The ones as shown WITHOUT the hole are listed as AMN710740 and AMN710750. This is from chassis 2A625489 and has no internal bulkhead...and what YRM are selling.

The ones WITH the hole are AMN711200 and AMN711210, these are for vehicles with a bulkhead.

Both listings refer to 90 CSW

[Mo Murphy]

I've seen a thread on the same subject before so this is not the first time it's happened.

Mo

[ThreePointFive]

"Holy thread revival, Batman!"

Now we've got that out of the way, I've posted in this thread as there's no point in creating multiple conversations on the same issue when a lot of good information has already been collected.

I asked the same question in back in 2015, I am no further towards an answer but having painted the tub (and cappings) I am much deeper into the problem.

Looking at this information, it seems that LR changed the design but it was still intended to fit side panels. So, this leads to the obvious question - how did they change the design of the side panels/fixings to match these changes?

Better yet, do we have any part numbers suddenly appearing for the sides' fixings when these cappings came into the catalogue? @western I'm kind of thinking this might be something you'd be interested in!

 

Edited December 18, 2019 by ThreePointFive

[landroversforever]

I’m also interested as I’ve got a newer set to go on mine at some point this century. 

[Ed Poore]

54 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

at some point this century

 - you're running of out of that too 

[oneandtwo]

The cappings pictured at the top are specifically for the rear tub with the factory fitted bulkhead removal bar, initially these were the late td5 90csw, and then when LR offered the bulkhead removal option on the Puma 90XS hardtop. They don’t have the section to pick up on the seat bulkhead.

The CSW capping is drilled to suit the side panel, there is then a large round threaded spacer that is bolted from below the capping, the bolt thread protrudes through the spacer forming a stud for the side panel to bolt to. As far as I am aware this is to improve fit and alignment of the side panels to the rear tub, and also to prevent the creaking that is sometimes caused by the side panels being bolted through the hood stick tubes with a big washer.

The CSW cappings as above are fabricated out of three separate sections welded together, presumably as they were a relatively small production run, wheras the standard hardtop cappings became one piece pressings around 2004

The newer one piece cappings can be retrofitted to an older tub but the rivet holes need re drilling as the locations changed slightly compared to the older welded cappings.

I can take some photos of the capping threaded spacers as I have the rear tub off my Puma 90 at the moment.

Edited December 18, 2019 by oneandtwo

[oneandtwo]

I forgot to take photos of my Puma before I left home for a few weeks but found the photo below of my old 2006 CSW with when I replaced the rusty cappings - large threaded spacer / washer visible with m8 hex set screw threaded all the way through from the underside of the cappings, through the spacer and forming a stud to mount the side panel. The threaded spacer has two flats to enable it to be held by a spanner when tightening the bolt up.

Edited December 20, 2019 by oneandtwo

[Anderzander]

Mine are still stashed - I better look at them, as I need the ones for the bulkhead removal bar - and I think I’ve got the other type...

[ThreePointFive]

Thanks oneandtwo, looks like I have to drill a hole into my cappings no matter what, making galvanising them pointless. Great.

If you do get a chance to take closeup photos of the fixings, that would be very useful and much appreciated as I want to ensure I'm correct if I am going to be drilling holes.

Edited December 20, 2019 by ThreePointFive

[lo-fi]

Agreed it's disappointing having to drill it, but it's not pointless. Just protect it well where you've had to drill it. Or get them dunked again, post drilling if it's a massive concern? A second galv layer certainly won't hurt. 

As an aside, anybody ever tried spot "soldering" zinc onto steel? 

[Anderzander]

Zinc rich pint is good for touching this stuff in.

[Gazzar]

ZG90 is what I use on galv damage. It's very effective.

[Bowie69]

Yes, zg-90 is excellent in my experience.