Chicken Drumstick Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 To stop mud getting up on the outriggers and other places such as the rear cross member. I want to make some shields/guards up. Should be easy, cut to shape and attach. Probably just drill some small holes and use stainless screws with a washer. Not sure what material to go for. A quick look on ebay and I'm seeing listing for neoprene rubber and silicon rubber. Anyone any idea what would work best? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 I lowered the standard cover in the rear arches to bridge the gap to the rear cross member seen here: And I made my own out of HDPE, it was 3mm left over from my wings. I slid it up behind the inner wheel arch and used the two existing screws. Hope this helps. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Rubber can break down relatively quickly I used some as supports for young trees and its starting to crack with age I would say your best bet would be to use a similar material to wagon wheel guards or aluminium make them bolt on as opposed to screws as they will be easier to remove in the long run you will still need to remove occasionally to wash out behind as nothing is ever totally mud proof regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 I used these from Gwyn Lewis 4x4 https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/defender-front-outrigger-mud-shields-gl1010 or this thread on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 (edited) 56 minutes ago, western said: I used these from Gwyn Lewis 4x4 https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/mud-shields-flaps/ Thanks, they look ideal. But kinda "ouch!!!" pricing. I wonder what material they use, it just says 3mm rubber. Also, my vehicle isn't exactly a Defender either, it's a little more bespoke. So these sadly would be unlikely to be direct fits. But the principle and material are exactly the sort of thing I had in mind. Edited April 4, 2020 by Chicken Drumstick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Any thin and robust plastic sheeting would be my vote. Stokbord is cheap and would probably work well. I still never got round to doing anything to mine as per the linked thread 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 43 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said: Thanks, they look ideal. But kinda "ouch!!!" pricing. I wonder what material they use, it just says 3mm rubber. Also, my vehicle isn't exactly a Defender either, it's a little more bespoke. So these sadly would be unlikely to be direct fits. But the principle and material are exactly the sort of thing I had in mind. They are a nylon sheet type material, definitely not rubber or silicone materials, as for the pricing the materials, research, cutting machines all have to be recouped somehow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 I would try mudguards from a HGV spares supplier. Lotsa different sizes and not expensive I wouldn't think. HDPE is the material of choice I would say. Virtually indestructible. Or...…..What about those 200litre or bigger blue plastic oil/chemical/water drums ? They are HDPE and you could cut and unroll them ? Might be difficult to manage though. I have seen them in black too. Cheap and nearly, or actually free . Polypropylene (PP) is not great, as it doesn't age well, and cracks when its cold. Plastic builders buckets and washing up bowls used to made from HDPE and MDPE, and used to last for years. Modern ones are PP and don't last at all 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Standard truck HDPE arches, dirt cheap, hard to destroy. Personally though, I'd rather leave it open so I can hose it out than close it up & discover later it's filled up with cack & gone rusty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 I used 3mm HDPE like Steve, easy to work and pleased with results. Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 There’s a thread def2.net about this, someone has made some up recently, can’t find it at the moment though. personally I’d go with truck wheel arches as has been said, but I like the barrel idea as I have one sat in the field! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 I've used rubber matting in the past, can buy by the metre on ebay. Or mudflaps are less than a fiver each, they'd do the job cut to shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabber Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 I used my old mudflaps, from the rear. It was time for replacements, so I cut them down and used the existing bolts. Still looking to do the rears. Will probably use the HDPE suggestion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toenden Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 Hi. I have used a tube from a traktor rear tire fixed by a couple og self tapping screws. The tube has some curve and is easy to adjust. Mine goes all the way to the mudflap, so no need for hosing down at all @FridgeFreezer (not even on my challenge truck which do see Everything...) /Mads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 Thanks for the ideas. I've ordered some trailer mud flaps for £10 delivered off ebay. Will see how well they work and if good I'll get some more. Might see if I can get some HDPE too, as there are areas around the engine bay I wouldn't mind boxing in a bit better too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 Previous owner of my 110 had just got some thing sheets of Ali and riveted them in place behind the wheels on both axles. Works well at blocking off mud. Flared the bottom a little bit so prevents stuff being kicked up into the rear cross-member. There's still plenty of space behind them to get in with a pressure washer etc. I've got a P38 air tank tucked up behind the passenger rear side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 Ohh a very long time since I did both the front and back.As my memory now goes back very little I'll see what I remember. I used olde plastic drums. I made a template to fit the back of the front wheel arch, One piece of plastin screwed by the original holes to the back of the arch. The mudflaf brackets binned then the plastic lenghtened to replace the mud flap. A new mudflap bracket made The rear As I have side lockers in my 300Tdi I only needed to make aome aluminium bits to fill the space below the lockers, then plastic sheet from drums to make the mud flaps. The front of the rear arches. As you know on the station wagon there is a cross member in front of the rear wheel. The crossmember gets covered in mud and crud which helps rot the cross member,So drill out the pop rivits and fit a piece of plastic to cover the crossmember. The plastic can be screwed in place If you can understand this ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Thought I'd update with progress. I've used some trailer mud flaps. Quite easy to install and I like that they are flexible, so easy to hold up to wash behind, should mud still ingress. I'm going to do the same to protect the rear cross member and the outrigger in front of the rear arch. I'm also going to get some HDPE (5 litre jerry cans are cheap on ebay). To cover over the other gaps. Front arch: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Plastic jerry cans are free from a lot of truck wash places. You don't think I paid for my plastic do you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 1 hour ago, mmgemini said: Plastic jerry cans are free from a lot of truck wash places. You don't think I paid for my plastic do you. Wouldn't even know of a truck wash place locally. It's like £12-15 on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 2 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said: Wouldn't even know of a truck wash place locally. It's like £12-15 on ebay. Any truck garage will wash trucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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