Anderzander Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 I'm looking at fitting an isolator switch through the front of the seat box as a bit of added security .... Can anyone recommend one? I quite like the idea of a chunky one that would look a bit OE if possible. Some of the ones I've seen look a bit flimsy and plasticy I Like this one off ebay: only thing is spare keys aren't available... These look fairly substantial - and spare keys are available... Would I be better off having some safe guard in place so it can't come out when the engine is running, so I don't damage the alternator, or do they lock when they are engaged? Last question for it - what gauge of wire would I need to wire it in? 16mm2 Any suggestions or info gratefully recd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 I have one of these: Which is the second one down on this page: VWP and it has a protector for the alternator. I use it as a cut out on my competition 90 and it's been tested by me and at scrutineering several times without causing damage to anything. It does lose all the stereo presets, though!!! Most have a bayonet type fitting on the key, so it can't come out when it's in the 'closed' position (i.e. engine running). I redirected the main leads from the battery and the starter motor to a position just to the right of the fuse panel in the Defender. Plenty of space here fot the cables on the back within the tunnel/bulkhead area. I used the same size cable as the main leads which is 35mm, I think. Definitely a lot bigger than 16mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92a Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 I've used a lucas one but if you search "vehicle wiring products" he does a good range. Mines wired in 35mm and works fine Angus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 You may be better with a 24v one designed for HGV use http://www.truckelectrics.com/index.php?ma...05e2d0bde3dddd7 Ive just got an ADR type isolator ,they can be remotely controled by the flick of a switch or even an inertia switch , They aint cheap mind . http://www.truckelectrics.com/index.php?ma...products_id=587 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 Thanks for the replies guys. Where can I source the 35 mm wire from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoggyN Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 If you get one with a red key, make sure the key has a metal pin. The all plastic ones wear quickly. I think you can wire a resistor across the terminals if you want to preserve the radio presets. It allows enough current through to keep the codes but not enough to burn anything. I'm not sure what value resistor is needed, maybe an adult can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob90 Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 I have loads dont worry about that I will bring it round when iam there tomorrow Thanks for the replies guys. Where can I source the 35 mm wire from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 Thanks Rob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 I use the small red plastic key type for jump start & the big brass unit for the winch isolator, Heavy duty battery isolator. Phenolic moulding with steel fixing plate and removable key. 10mm studs. 250A @ 24V, 2500A for 5 secs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streaky Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Those ones seem to be the most popular by people in the know. They cost a bit more but I think they are worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 For a TD5, you need one that has the ignition cut-off too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8bertha Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Please forgive my ignorance , but what is the purpose of the extra spade connectors on this type of isolator? I've heard talk of fried alternators due to "cheapo" isolators. Is this just hearsay or is there something sinister going on? Cheers Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 It depends on the way your vehicle is wired and the type of alternator. If your alternator feed goes direct to the battery and the isolator cuts the power to the vehicle without disconnecting the alternator then you don't need the extra terminals. If your alternator is wired to the "vehicle" side of the isolator rather than the battery side then that gives you the problem of the alternator continuing to power the engine when you turn the isolator off when the engine is running. One of the extra pairs of contacts kills the ignition/fuel pump/ to stop the engine running and the other pair of contacts connects a large power resistor from the vehicle side of the isolator to ground, effectively loading the alternator while the engine comes to a halt. Switching the isolator off while the engine is running should kill the engine as well as isolate the electrics, for motor sport this is something that is checked at scrutineering and, hence, the version with the extra contacts is often called the MSA/FIA version. I prefer to use electrical isolators as they are easier to remote switch and are waterproof.... http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p2c127/.../-isolator.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 i ve got a standard isolater switch with the leads on already pm me if ya interested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I use one of these - http://www.power-store.com/view-item.asp?i...amp;id=191& Handles 2 batteries and can be locked with a long shank padlock. Designed for the marine market. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Early90 Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Would I be better off having some safe guard in place so it can't come out when the engine is running, so I don't damage the alternator, or do they lock when they are engaged? Get one with a removable key,My key got kicked out of position by passengers three times before i removed it.... and i can confirm it kills the diodes. A low rated fuse across the terminals will preserve your alarm/presets etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 This is the remote isolator im fitting to mine , It can be located near the batterys and various remote switches can be located anywhere on the vehicle , It knocks out the negative and posotive at once it will also knock the alternator off in the event of the motor still running with the switch off . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 Loads of good info in here! I'm not looking for a kill switch so to speak - just one to take out when I lock it up. For security rather than a remote kill switch. So if I can get one that won't get kicked out I should be safe enough? or is there something else I'm missing on the TD5? I suppose it will be resetting my ECU each time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 IIRC the Td5 use a battery sensed alternator as opposed to earlier vehicles that have a machine sensed alternator, maybe some brightspark auto electician can explain further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FKD Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Loads of good info in here!I'm not looking for a kill switch so to speak - just one to take out when I lock it up. For security rather than a remote kill switch. So if I can get one that won't get kicked out I should be safe enough? or is there something else I'm missing on the TD5? I suppose it will be resetting my ECU each time? If you just need it as an anti-theft device, then use a standard isolator and bridge the terminals with a low amp fuse, then when turned off anything that needs to stay live to work/not need resetting ie radio, alarm,ecu etc will still work and if the ignition is operated while isolated the fuse will blow and vehicle cant be started... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 FKD That's an excellent idea! What fuse rating would you suggest? 5 amps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FKD Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 5 Amps should be fine, I wonder how many times you'll forget about that fuse... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HENNEGANOL Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Instead of fitting a fuse, I fitted a 5 amp Auto Reset Circuit Breaker across the terminals of the isolator switch. If the ignition switch is turned to the start position whilst the isolator is open, you hear a continous clicking noise whilst the breaker trips and resets. The beauty of this arrangement is that you don't have to replace a blown fuse and the radio, alarm etc remain powered up even though the isolator is open. These breakers are about £1.30 each from Maplins Electronics. Gerald Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FKD Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 You've spoilt all the fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 If you want the cut out for security then at least consider one with a proper key like... Those with a red 'key' are very easily switched on with a screwdriver or similar, they are even less secure than standard LR locks, and that's saying something. Also making it less visible will help from a security point of view. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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