Jump to content

Blank Sheet Of Paper time - 90 Recovery point(s) Rear


Hybrid_From_Hell
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bit as it says really

I am about to start fabrication of rear winch mtg number 3.

This will look like a 90 rearcrossmember and house the MileMarker.

So serious Q here :

If you had the option to fit ANY recovery type point to the back of a 90 style crossmember (dimensionally) then what would it be and why

Prob looking for more than the "LR Dealer Kit" or "NATO" etc, the reason for asking is that I can fab into it whatever I fancy.

One thought I have had is "sinking" in a swivelly type unit, so that it has less sticking out etc.

The other reason revolves around an idea I have for winching tweak on the entire unit - TBA and watch this pace.

1st I have a lot of hours of basic fabrication to get the main unit, so hence the Q re recovery points

post up any ideas however off the wall !

Nige

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless you have too much time on your hands (and you know it will take longer than you think :P ) I'd say if it ain't broke don't fix it ... a NATO is squaddie proof and if attached to a solid enough x-member will never break, and how often do you get hung up by it? It also offers rear protection in case of errant Mitsubishis straying too close on the road :D

if you were feeling creative you could design a novel quick-release system so you can bung on a NATO, ball hitch, pin and jaw, sky hook or whatever takes your fancy?

I'd stick with that in the middle and a couple of built in eyes in line with each chassis member for whatever.

And why not incorporate some sort of guide/pulley system in the end of the crossmember to feed the rear winch rope out of, so you can winch the back end sideways without having to worry about snagging the rope?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not really off the wall Nige, but one of the best solutions IMHO is a Loop made from a piece of 20mm is Bar. It can come through the front surface of the cross member, and be welded rond the hole, but behind that can be 6"+ of Bar welded to the side of the chassis leg. That gives you over 2' of pretty meaty weld holding your recovery loop to the chassis. Not complicated, and it needs some heat to bend the bar, but simple is good...

Heres one I did for Orange on the front of his rangie - not the same, but if you welded through the face of the crossmember and then down the sides of the chassis rails... well you get the idea...

256399104_df9563a98c.jpg

Cheers

Mark

ps, I can't claim any kind of credit for any of this idea - but I have read about it a lot... :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed with Bogmonster. If you are sticking to a setup similar to your current fairlead location between the crossmember and the bottom of the rear door, then you should be able to squeeze a Nato into the space they usually locate. Alternatively you could use what is listed on the defender micro-fiche as "Tow Hook Heavy Duty", its what i've got on the 90 and is basically a Nato that doesn't swivel and therefore is slightly smaller. I'm sure Western could provide the pictures from his EPC

If you intend to have the fairlead in the middle of the crossmember, thus preventing Nato fitment, then a blatant copy of Tonks swivelly shackles would work nicely - with some suitable 10mm plate reinforcing repair sections

I personally prefer to have a single recovery point in the middle, easier to hook straps onto, dont need a bridle etc

I do like Marks suggestion though, simple cheap and effective

The above just my humble opinion

Lewis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All show and no go too - can't imagine square loops would be ideal for heavy recovery :huh: and yes I do realise that's a concept car and hence an exercise in impressing 12-year-olds and motoring journos :rolleyes:

I like the welded on loops - simple, lightweight :ph34r: and no moving parts or even fasteners to fail. Nice big eye to them too.

My choice, that will probably feature on the 109 at least once, are the simple bog standard pin hitches - they're about £13 from Towsure and the pin makes it easy to hook the eye of a rope/strop on, or clip a winch hook on, or stick a shackle on, etc. etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nige, this is something I've been thinking about as I'll be doing something simerlar as soon as the vehicle's weatherproof (2050, then :P ) and my shortlist is:

  • Simple loop of bar (very cheap, simple, light and I've had no issues using this sort of thing to date)
  • Something along the lines of Tonks (nice but a bit of work)
  • This sort of thing (nice quick solution)

IMHO, although I like NATOs it might be a bit of a pain to fit arround the fairlead and, if it was off set, it might get in the way of winching sideways.

The other thing I'm doing is extending the corners of the crossmember forwards to the edge of the rear wheelarch (as D44's rear x-member) along with something at the end of the x member to guide the winch line when pulling sideways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not really off the wall Nige, but one of the best solutions IMHO is a Loop made from a piece of 20mm is Bar. It can come through the front surface of the cross member, and be welded rond the hole, but behind that can be 6"+ of Bar welded to the side of the chassis leg. That gives you over 2' of pretty meaty weld holding your recovery loop to the chassis. Not complicated, and it needs some heat to bend the bar, but simple is good...

Heres one I did for Orange on the front of his rangie - not the same, but if you welded through the face of the crossmember and then down the sides of the chassis rails... well you get the idea...

256399104_df9563a98c.jpg

Cheers

Mark

ps, I can't claim any kind of credit for any of this idea - but I have read about it a lot... :P

The idea for these came from Bishbosh....ta muchly!! However they are a lot bigger being made of 20mm bar. There is plenty of room for a large yellow hook to clip on/off and flap around in the breeze if it's not under tension!

Although we haven't used it in anger......yet........it seems a lot easier for the WB as the loop doesn't move! I spent last Sunday WBing for Mark at the Kent Off Road Club outing and got thoroughly fed up chasing the rotating loops around to fit the shackle to!! Especially when standing on a rather steep slope holding the strop and shackle pin in one hand and using the other to hold yourself up on the bonnet!!

Minor point, but I suppose you'll be driving, so you get annoyed with it!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep the thoughts coming.

Why are some of them (a la Davids on the ramp) set at a "Jaunty" angle, looks ?, which is fine :lol: , or is there a reason that seems to be eascaping me, which I thinks there might be ??

Nige

Think its to do with side pulls and causes the hook/shackle to move in to the bumper rather than leveraging the bend from a point furthest from the bumper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still thinking re the bars, anyone have anything else to add re vertical vs "Jaunty Angle" ?

Other than the bling factor ?

Nige

Less sharp bend making it stronger?

Not looked in detail at the D44 one but it looks like the bar could be set so its welded to the corners of the plates that weld to the chassis rails so the load is transfered straight down the rails.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when will you ever be pulling in a dead straight line? all the bent loops will suffer in terms of strength on a side pull but as a cost effective solution its worth a whirl, keeping the hoop leg lengths as short a practically possible or adding side gussets would chunky it up.. but then at what point do you stop..? eeeek

put the ten milly on the floor and step away Mr Barker lets not make this incident nasty.............. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy