Retroanaconda

Gibsons are pretty good, and should have one in stock. Failing that any decent motor factor should carry the belt. TMS Motor Spares and Euro Car Parts both have branches in the town and would be my first port of call.

‘Tis done sir

Ineos Automotive are a subsidiary of one of the largest chemical companies in the world, so they don’t have to worry about little things like turning a profit. It’s a very handy tax write off for the billions in profit they make every year.

2002 was the year the larger barrels came in for the doors, meaning you could finally have one key for both them and the ignition (you still need a separate one for the fuel cap but that rarely needs locking). The later 2002-on rear door locks which accept the larger barrels will fit earlier doors, they are dimensionally the same as the older types. You may need to enlarge the hole in the door skin for the escutcheon. You can also fit the central locking variety if desired, or just go for the standard one. The earlier rear door locks take the same barrels as the earlier front door handles. The later type are much better, though not really much more secure.

They almost never bleed fully first time, I’ve always managed to get a working pedal (just about) and then the rest self-bleeds over a few dozen miles. Is the slave cylinder fitted the correct way up, with the bleed nipple at the top?

A Td5 exhaust is 2.5” and the 200Tdi is 2.25”. You'll need to make a custom piece up to adapt to the later exhaust, but it is much better as above. I get basically no exhaust noise in mine now the Td5 centre/rear section has been fitted, rather than the classic Tdi motorway boom of old.

Profile of the top of a bulkhead here for info. It would possibly tip backwards after dropping it a bit, but forwards it would have to drop much more.

It’s obsolete, but I used this one after speaking to Turner Engineering: https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/rtc-6167-o-ring-c2x35431250

It depends on whether you are locating the transmission in the factory 200Tdi position or the V8/300Tdi/Td5 position I think. This would guide your choice of tunnel and hopefully ensure the gear levers come up in the right places. If using an Ashcroft console then I would ask them, they know their stuff.

Book MPG figures here for reference: It does seem a bit odd that the rear seats don’t fold flat like most vehicles. I use that function in my 110 all the time and it turns it into a van very quickly.

I use the same stuff on account of the overdrive. It is indeed quite thin at ambient temperature, it also seems to be more prone to leaks at various points but the LT230 is not the most oil-tight of assemblies in the first place!

I really want to like the vehicle, and I do like it from what I’ve seen so far. The main appeal to be honest is the claimed user serviceability and longevity, which is what I like most about my old land rovers. I can and do maintain the new 110 myself but there’s no avoiding the fact that it will become prohibitively expensive to do so in time. If the grenadier can truly offer this in a modern vehicle package then it could be a good option, and be very suited to long distance travel and touring. However 21.4mpg is just not acceptable in a modern diesel - it would cost me an extra £2,500 a year in fuel alone compared to the 110. I really hope that improves for you over time.

I’ve got a defender LT77 in the workshop if you want some pictures of the relevant bits to compare with yours?

Can’t recommend from experience as I’ve not been there yet but I am hoping to head up to Forte Jaffrau in mid-June via the Galleria del Seguret(snow state permitting). That’s southeast of Annecy, just over the Italian border. Also hoping to head along the Combe Laval, which is just a ‘normal’ alpine road but a stunning drive.

Hold the radio power button for 20 seconds with the ignition on and the car in park. That resets the pivi pro system. If no luck then it’s a dealer issue. I’ve never seen the fault before on any of the user groups.

The cars are still going to be branded Land Rover and will have a Land Rover brand on them. It’s really a non-issue. It is impressive how the company is simultaneously accused of abandoning their heritage in favour of a different market, while also pillaging that same heritage to sell cars to those seeking ‘adventure’.

Except they’re not dropping Land Rover are they?

These guys do parts: https://www.mdengineering.co.uk What makes you think it’s overheating?

My Tdi used to have a soft clutch pedal the first few presses after a motorway run on a hot day - same problem I reckon.

There are two different lengths, one for LT77 and one for R380. And the LT85 one but that’s different at the gearbox end.

I have had success in the past by putting a bar through the front anti-rollbar mounts and then a block of timber up to the engine block. Not sure if that would line up with the bellhousing on a 300Tdi though? Alternatively, a stout bar or piece of timber across the seats and then some rope or a strap down through the hole under the middle seat/cubby and around the box might do the job?

I’ve always just used a larger one, it’s seemingly accurate enough for the purpose. Smaller ones are available though: Amazon link

Should be working now. Apologies for the disruption!

Yes I think so. It’s a boss you weld into the fork and then it can take the replaceable bushes from the V8/Td5 fork.