neil110

Speaking of ancillaries, the LR starter motor has the solenoid mounted in a different place to the car starters, I cannot remember if it is the prop or exhaust which causes the problem

Had several 300 cables do this. It is due to the coarseness of the thread and the adjuster collar being plastic. I prevented it by wrapping the metal bit with tape Given they're not expensive I'd put a new one on. Think we might have different definitions of not expensive. https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/89170/0/throttle_cable_300tdi_right_hand_drive_defender

judging by the significant "Hump" it could well be the tunnel for the LT85

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Made-in-UK-Snap-punch-tool-3-16-dia-for-Solid-Rivets-Land-Rover-Series-1-2-2a-3/283336663904?epid=863733701&hash=item41f82e6360:g:oFUAAOSwX~dWiAD6:rk:22:pf:0 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-Aluminium-Rivets-3-16-dia-7-16-long-50-Land-Rover-Series-300783/320949035962?hash=item4aba0da3ba:g:2ysAAMXQxzZRfSB3:rk:17:pf:0

Honda dealers stock it as well. As luck would have it my local supermarket stocks it, made by Total. Which just happens to be the oil company where an old school friend of mine is head of research.

They could be from a Range Rover, a Discovery or a Defender. The two holes, from memory, are UNC. They are there to enable fitment of a track rod guard when the differential is installed in a front axle

Yeah you can, a 4.2 on carbs. The longer stroke makes a world of difference to how the V8 works with a Def neddy

All Lead acid batteries (Gel, AGM, Flooded, Drycell, etc) are made up of a series of 2.2 volt cells that are bridged together in series to reach their final desired voltage. For instance, a 6 volt battery will have 3 cells (3 x2.2= 6.6 volts), a 12 volt battery will have 6 cells (6 x2.2=13.2 volts) and so on.That 2.2 volts is the fully charged, straight off the charger number. The actual resting voltage, or the voltage a battery will settle at 12-24 hours after being removed from the charger, is closer to 2.1 volts per cell, or about 6.4 volts for a 6v battery, and 12.7 volts for a 12v battery. These numbers assume 100% healthy cells, and may vary a bit lower for older batteries. A heavy discharge tester will soon show up a weak battery

Later models have much lighter duty connectors. Best bet is to locate a connector with the same colour combination, or one very like it. Probably in cream coloured or translucent plastic rather than black rubber. Just as a by the by, a fully charged battery should be giving you 13.2 volts

Don't know if it is the case with the TD5 but Land Rover used to recommend flushing the 300 intercooler, with acetone, every 50,000 miles or so

Probably out of date by now, but on Boxing day I put some unleaded in the truck, from pump 4 at Thurrock services on the M25. Not very much because it was £1.43 litre. Just as well because it was contaminated with something and the truck ran like a dog/kept cutting out until I could get to another filling station and fill the other tank with fresh fuel

Land Rover also sell something remarkably similar to the seal which is fitted to the gutter on the bulkhead in the engine bay. It is intended for fitment to the inner rim all round the lip of the bonnet, but only in certain markets. Again this is probably to reduce drive by noise rather than in vehicle racket. Best fix is to throw the coal burner away and fit a V8, at least then the, much reduced, clatter is melodious. ☺️

Or use a high lift Jack to support one end of the door, mind you it probably needs a mate to hold the Jack so not much further forward. It is also a LOT lighter if you take the glass out.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BREAKER-halogen-headlamp-64193NBL-HCB-passenger/dp/B01LLKFWHI?ref=silk_at_search Or here. https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/lighting1/car-bulb/?48177019Z&1&cc5_847

From memory they are the same size as Defender anti roll bar bushes. I was disappointed by how quickly the original Bilstein bushes, both top and bottom, failed

If you really want some bright lights (illegal as a very illegal thing though) fit 130/80 bulbs and make sure your wiring is up to the job.

As far as I can recall, the thread in the PS pump are "ENOTS" thread

The wheel from a 300Tdi will fit a series 3 steering column, a friend had one fitted to his for years

According to the adverts, Green flag seem to think they are quite good. If you are a simple serpent you always have the option of the CSMA and their dedicated recovery organisation. The only occasion I needed the AA, they spent an hour and a half looking at the V8 before pronouncing they couldn't work out what was wrong with it and why the engine would not start. Luckily I was only a couple of miles from homer and in a Sainsbudgies car park.

From sepia tinted memory the T seals tend to dribble between the sump and the front of the flywheel housing and typically the engine oil in a Tdi is black, unless it's just been changed. On the plus side it is possible to change them without removing the engine.

The injection pump for the 300 was made by Bosch. When my local dealer informed me that mine had a serious diesel leak from the cold start system that was where the problems started. Land Rover didn't have an exchange unit anywhere on earth. The only new one they had in their entire network was in Turkey and I could pretty much have bought another Defender for the price they quoted. In the end they removed the pump and let me take it to a not so local Bosch specialist for an overhaul. Even that came in at a fag paper short of a grand but the pump looked like New when it came back.

No you can buy a 60 amp fuse from anywhere that sells them. Land Rover don't make fuses, they buy them from a manufacturer, same with a huge array of the components fitted to any vehicle.

Hydraulic assist for what, please?

Not yet but I can soon fix that.

I have type A fitted with a leather cover, from wheel skins, which is just about the best wheel I have ever come across in a Defender. I find the rim of a bare type A too thin and the type B too fat and spongy