RedLineMike

"Professional Off-Road" abbreviation: tyres for commercial traffic use. POR tyres are specially designed for bad rolling conditions or for deteriorated roads conditions. Information: POR tyres do not have EU labels as they do not meet the tyre EU labeling directives.

as with everything, if you drive with your eyes shut you can bend anything, ive personally bent d1 /d2 radius arms both front & rear, on my current build ive bent the solid t6 aluminum links to a nice bowed shape, there are several people in the challenge comunity who use the RAC one link, so i would say it would withstand some gentle cane dodging, its also worth mentioning in regards to using jonny joints or heims in the ends of the front radius arms will restrict the articulation that can be achieved throught the nature of hot the front suspension twists, ive been there & discovered it the hard way 🤣

https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Deutsch_Connectors.html

https://www.racpartsltd.co.uk/product-page/front-1-link although its worth keeping in mind the large amount of forces being put into that cross member if you were to 3 link it, theres not really any kits available off the shelf as such these days, they do come up 2nd hand occasionally,

In reality, a Gwyn Lewis setup is the best compromise for trialing on an 80" wheelbase, More flex will allow the rear axle to steer more under the vehicle & will probably contribute to you falling over, What length of shock were you intending to use?

So trailing arms & a frame? On my ultra4 buggy the upper links go from the centre of the rear diff, to basically the inside of the rock sliders, & the lower links go from the ends of the axle casing to the lower part of the belly cradle about 8-10" at a guess from the centre of the vehicle, Unfortunately with a landrover chassis vehicle unless you're doing this right at the beginning, the chassis is in the way no matter how you paint it, I've 4 linked a tubular chassis buggy before which had essentially a discovery chassis but made out of tube, Did it work? Yes it did, Did it work well, it was reasonable & had its flaws, like prop vibration under braking, was nice & flexible but felt like it was always trying to fall over

Are you currently using the D2 front radius arms? How have you got the rear axle set up if the vehicle is based on a D2?

i know andy sargeant has done well in france with his production class 110 hardtop, from what i remember looking at it a while back, it had 2.5" fox res dampers all round, standard diameter springs, i think it had hydraulic bumpstops also.

for vehicles with a "landrover" chassis, yes you can 4 link them, but it generally doesnt make it better , in relation the U4 & challenge vehicles, by having a tubular chassis it allows more room to position the links where they are benificial to the suspension geometry rather than where they fit,

brake disc prices are on par with the cost for the discs on my leon estate 🤮 🤣🤣

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2011-61-LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-2-4-JAMES-BOND-SPECTRE-MODEL-DIESEL/324255706212?hash=item4b7f256c64:g:gREAAOSw4g5fLzT5

my cupra when put into cupra mode, only stays in cupra suspension & steering when the ignition is cycled, you have to re activate cupra mode for the throttle map

been out this morning for a test drive at the Landrover experiance at dunkeld, more offroad biased than on road & can say that it does gentle offroad well for a "standard" vehicle on road tyres, having gone along with every intention to hate it, i cant say i do, its a significant leap forward from the old defender which in reality was welllll out of date when they stopped building it, would i buy a new one? no, would i buy one thats a couple of years old , would consider it, especially with the new 6 cylinder diesel thats coming, just means now that i need to wait & see how the grenadier stacks up in the flesh, hopefully my pre-order comes to fruition

nothing like replacing a soft material with a hard material if you have to do this again, only place for stainless is on a boat holding the panel trims on #SayNotostainless

was running the standard nissan rear prop so uj/uj combo

ran a nissan y61 rear axle with a lt230 on my previous buggy, overall it wasnt an issue with the offset driveshaft but due to the rear suspension geometry it would occasionally vibrate on over run / breaking heavily

hub pattern appears to be current era jeep so gives plenty option of wheel choices, will be interesting to see what the next short while brings, dunno if its a good thing or not to have signed up for the priority release 🤣

d2 boxes have a much larger sector shaft than a normal 4 bolt box, However the worm inside the box is very soft & easy to flat spot / punch through, i found this out after bursting 4 steering boxs with an average life span of 20 miles

had notification today at work about the unveil of the exterior, will be interesting to see what they have come up with

@keeley75 allisport make everything in house apart from the cores, which are made to there specifications by a core manufacturer

i have these https://bearmach.com/headlamp-7-inch-round-trucklite-tl-27291c-rhd-led-front-ba-070tr on my 110DC, no complaints or issues other than driving in heavy snow / freezing conditions can be "interesting" as they freeze over

i know you can get the gate plates seperatley / make your own, i would assume in your instance that a P R N 4 3 2 1 would be a better option as 4 would become D i think thats what WSR are doing with there kit http://www.wsroffroad.com/gb/gear-box/25-shifter-wsr-for-autobox-land-rover-zf4hp.html?search_query=shifter&results=1

P R N 3 2 1

nanocom as it can do the most in comparison to hawkeye

my understanding for using 2 front halfs Vs modifying a standard rear to take radius arms is that the front chassis has more rake in it giving more axle > chassis clearance than the standard rear, @discomikey may be able to confirm this as its been a few years since ive played with standard chassis stuff