uninformed Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 4 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: It's possible Defender hubs put the disc further inboard giving the extra ~11mm clearance to the rim, although it would be by no means guaranteed - Wolf rims clear my callipers, stock steels & modulars don't, Disco 1 steels do, RR classic alloys do, it's a bit of a lottery. Yes and I don’t think all the kits have the same rotor offset. The Wilwood catalog gives quite a few options though. But it looks like to go bigger and better than factory $$$ have to be spent. That’s ok, I don’t mind paying for quality kit, what I do mind is spending money on something that’s over rated and or has issues related that weren’t told about ( rim clearance, MC/Booster compatibility etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 I think it comes back to what I and others have said - unless you've got insane HP or very heavily loaded, the factory brakes *should* work perfectly well. If they don't, I'd explore the possibility there's a problem with them before going to great lengths to upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 4 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: I think it comes back to what I and others have said - unless you've got insane HP or very heavily loaded, the factory brakes *should* work perfectly well. If they don't, I'd explore the possibility there's a problem with them before going to great lengths to upgrade. Clearly I’ve been spoilt driving my newer vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 22 hours ago, uninformed said: Clearly I’ve been spoilt driving my newer vehicle. It's easily done - my mini has the John Cooper Works brakes and it will stick your face to the windscreen but that said neither the 109 nor the 127 ever feel like they're not going to stop, it's just a bigger lump with the laws of physics acting on it. In both cases the brakes are sharp enough and you can lock wheels if you try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 On 4/5/2022 at 1:40 PM, Nonimouse said: The bit about maintenance was a genuine point. So many people moan about brake performance but it's generally poor maintenance or missuse. This! Just before I took the 6x6 for its MOT I found a leaking brake pipe so got that fixed and completely forgot it was on drums (having only had discs on vehicles in recent years). Surprisingly for me it passed on emissions but failed on braking efficiency. Doh! Forgot to adjust brakes, did so and took it back. Due to being a permanent 6x6 out with the old Tapley meter and tester trundled off down the industrial estate. Came back rubbing his forehead, got out and said - "yeah you sorted the brakes, I hit the windscreen". It does have large drums though, twin cylinders and an extra set compared to normal though. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 On 4/14/2022 at 10:21 PM, Ed Poore said: This! Just before I took the 6x6 for its MOT I found a leaking brake pipe so got that fixed and completely forgot it was on drums (having only had discs on vehicles in recent years). Surprisingly for me it passed on emissions but failed on braking efficiency. Doh! Forgot to adjust brakes, did so and took it back. Due to being a permanent 6x6 out with the old Tapley meter and tester trundled off down the industrial estate. Came back rubbing his forehead, got out and said - "yeah you sorted the brakes, I hit the windscreen". It does have large drums though, twin cylinders and an extra set compared to normal though. Drums are better stoppers than discs. But discos are easy to maintain, don't need setting up and are good when wet - and cheaper. My old Norton Commando (1969) had drums, with a huge air intake for cooling - best set of stoppers on nay on my many bikes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 On my 109 there are 110 brakes all round. Braided hoses, later defender booster and mc. And Mintex pads. On 35's that are 41.5 kg a corner.. It stops hard when i need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 The brakes on my 90 are rubbish - but I think some of the pistons are seized. It’s the next job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 20 hours ago, Anderzander said: The brakes on my 90 are rubbish - but I think some of the pistons are seized. It’s the next job. One word: Zeus. Their stainless pistons are great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 Quick tip: If you have what you think are seized pistons (even my stainless ones seized) before removing the caliper put a thin block of wood instead of the pad on one side and force the pistons to move out with the pedal - Ok it may dislodge the wiper seals but you were going to change them anyway. Then push the pistons back, put the pad back and do the same on the other side. Makes getting them out a lot easier and safer as even compressed air from a compressor isn't always enough (maybe a dive bottle would do it but that's a bit sketchy, one for the more adventurous) or if it just is, the pistons really hurt as they hit your fingers with 120psi behind them... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 If you intend to go further and split the callipers (make sure you have the gallery seals first) then my favourite method is to put the calliper in the soft jaws of the vice and then put a 1/2 extension bar inside the piston with as big a socket/nut beside it as will fit. You can then spin the piston with a breaker bar as you slightly lift it. You can always spray a bit of WD40 or similar to help with this. I have even resorted to welding things to the pistons before but the method above has never failed since I started using it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 I did have to use plus gas overnight to loosen a piston even after it had been dislodged hydraulically and pushed back. A bit of red grease smeared round when you push them back helps free them up too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 I’m considering just replacing the callipers - but perhaps putting some stainless pistons in the new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 New AP calipers are still cheap enough that rebuilding is not really worth it in my opinion. Additionally stainless pistons may not corrode but the seal retainers still do and then that rust still seizes them up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 3 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said: New AP calipers are still cheap enough that rebuilding is not really worth it in my opinion. Additionally stainless pistons may not corrode but the seal retainers still do and then that rust still seizes them up. I toyed with just buying new the last couple of times but there is something satisfying about fixing something instead of just chucking it into the scrap. if time is a key factor I agree new ones are they way forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 The seal retainers I had (AP in the old yellow boxes) were sheradized. Even if you buy new calipers it makes sense to paint them before fitting unless you expect them to only last a couple of years. And if you are painting them, the seal retainers can be painted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 Is this about the right price for AP ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294135315137?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wKXHYALHTTO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8IVqfH45Rgq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Unbranded callipers are of course a fraction of the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 I think the original 46 mm callipers with vented disks are hard to beat, Unless you increase the wheel diameter. This is what I have run for years. And the only place where these might not be up to the job is if you come down mountains a lot and don't know how to use engine braking (or have an automatic). If you use stainless pistons, the heat transfer to the fluid is less. When I was involved with rally cars, this was the second choice of materials for pistons. Titanium is better, as it transfers heat slower still, but that was not allowed in certain classes. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 19 hours ago, Anderzander said: Is this about the right price for AP ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294135315137?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wKXHYALHTTO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8IVqfH45Rgq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Unbranded callipers are of course a fraction of the cost. Yes I think that’s about right and in line with what I last paid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 20 hours ago, cackshifter said: Quick tip: If you have what you think are seized pistons (even my stainless ones seized) before removing the caliper put a thin block of wood instead of the pad on one side and force the pistons to move out with the pedal - Ok it may dislodge the wiper seals but you were going to change them anyway. Then push the pistons back, put the pad back That’s what I have done recently as part of a service. I wedged the others so as to be sure that each piston in turn was able to move. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 Those plastic pieces look very handy! .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 They are shims for fittings glazing/doors/windows/all sorts of things in the building trade: Broadfix Mixed Glazing Shims Kit Assorted | Toolstation Seem a chunk of money until you realise there are 300 of them in there.... serrated so they grip each other when stacked. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 Yes I bought them for reglazing some of my windows. It seemed a lot of pieces and it was, for that job. However they have a hundred other uses and the selection of different thicknesses (colour coded) just makes it better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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