cookie64 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Hi All i Have a 1997 300tdi 90 On my mot the other day i had an advisory for front wheel bearing so had a look and the play was fenominal so started stripping and found the hub nuts to be not even finger tight so bought new bearing and seals fitted all and tightened up. A day or so later am getting high vibes and what seemed like a lack of power, it turned out i had tightened them a bit to much so replaced again but now the same kind of problem and its really annoying me am almost at spanner throwing time The vibrations are mega like ive got a square wheel and come around 50MPH am going to do it for the third time hopefully succesfully bt was wondering if anyone know what torque the bearings should be set at or is the problem possibly somewhere else maybe the uj in swivel housing? i just dont know Any help/advice would be amazing thanks in advance tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Are you sure you're locking them up against each other tight enough? Do you also have the tab washer bent over the nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tetsu0san Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 In my experience, just do it up until there is no lateral movement and the wheel will rotate freely. It's more about feel that anything else. The locking nut and the washer will prevent it from all coming undone. A mate thought it was a good idea to tighten up the bearings on his MGB until they were very tight. Went about 3 miles and the bearing melted to the stub axel and it was all a bit knackered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 I was always taught to tighten the nuts up until you feel the wheel binding then back them off. Whether that's right or not I don't know.... It depends on the bearing. I know on my Ifor Willams trailer, they need to be tightened up to 350Nm! Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 50mph vibes sound like a propshaft, check your UJs, and loose wheel nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie64 Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 hi props are fine replaced a few months ago and still good. i did my brothers fiesta and they werse torqued to 280nm just hoping someone would know a no so i can have piece of mind lol tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Are the new bearings seating in the hub properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie64 Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Are the new bearings seating in the hub properly? errm i think so but how would i check this? i know the two outer races are well and properly seated but dont know how id be sure about the inner races. tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy V8 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 the Torque settings are 40lbft,i'd set a torque wrench to that,then just keep tightening and rotating the hub till it either cranks the wrench at set torque or it gets too stiff to turn the hub.then back it off a tad,rotate the hub again then just nip up the nut.put on the tab washer,tighten up the outer nut and bend over tab washer on each nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 errm i think so but how would i check this? i know the two outer races are well and properly seated but dont know how id be sure about the inner races. tom The only way I know of is, literally by inspection, and prep before installing the races, old greese removed and cleaned properly. are you sure you vibration problem is wheel related? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 I normally do them by feel... tighten until it starts to bind, then slacken of a bit and retighten by feel. Other one I read was tighten bearings up to 61nm, back it off, then tighten to 4nm. Then tighten the locknut to 61nm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthur90 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 The official way is to tighten them to seat them and then back off. You then use a dial guage and measure the end float(the exact measurement I cant remember as I am at work)but end float means that there is a slight gap so no torque so to speak. I believe that some later defenders do have a torque setting when fitter with a locking nut and a spacer betwoon the bearings. These are torqued up but of course are not adjustable when part worn like the old sort with the two nuts and lock washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 I assume you mean the large hub nut (about 41mm nut I think). They have to be tightend to 210Nm. Have a look at this: http://defender-manuals.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/Land_Rover_Defender_Workshop_Manual_1999_and_2002_MY.pdf Page 392. My only advice would be don't even attempt this with one of those rubbish box spanners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 From what I can see that manual above is TD5 onwards, i.e. MY1999-2002, his truck is a 1997, so therefore has the older style twin nut setup. The OP even says 'hub nuts' in his first post, indicating there is more than one of them. Do NOT try and tighten it to 210Nm! Here, page 47 onwards: http://www.landrover...op-manual-4.pdf Honestly though, you should be able to tighten them up using the box spanner until no movement is felt by hand, and then put the lock washer and other nut in place. If you still have horrendous vibration it won't be the wheel bearing. Did you remember to put the circlip back on the end of the halfshaft/CV joint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Having never changed the wheel bearings on an older model I didn't know there was a difference. Like most things on a Defender I assumed they would be one of the things that is unchanged but that is also why I put the reference up just in case. My bad However, hub 'nut' or hub 'nuts' is not what I based my advice on. For all I knew it could have been a typo or reference to the ones on the other wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 The clue was in the title of the PDF: Land_Rover_Defender_Workshop_Manual_1999_and_2002_MY.pdf and the OP said: i Have a 1997 300tdi 90 Pretty clear cut to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Given another month and I would have learnt the hard way it's on my to do list for my 1988 110, so at least you've save me the job of finding the correct page number in the WSM. As above check the props, these cause pretty horrific vibration when the bearings go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzza Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 This is from Land Rover manual, Defender 300tdi section, ref wheel bearing setting, Refit 11. Clean stub axle and drive shaft and fit hub assembly to axle. 12. Fit spacing washer. 13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft). Ensure hub is free to rotate with no bearing play. 14. Back off adjusting nut 90° and tighten to 10 Nm (7 lbf/ft). 15. Fit a new lock washer. 16. Fit locknut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft). 17. Tab over lock washer to secure adjusting nut and locknut. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 This is from Land Rover manual, Defender 300tdi section, ref wheel bearing setting, Refit 11. Clean stub axle and drive shaft and fit hub assembly to axle. 12. Fit spacing washer. 13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft). Ensure hub is free to rotate with no bearing play. 14. Back off adjusting nut 90° and tighten to 10 Nm (7 lbf/ft). 15. Fit a new lock washer. 16. Fit locknut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft). 17. Tab over lock washer to secure adjusting nut and locknut. Steve ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's how I do it and it hasn't failed me yet. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 I use the technique of tighten it to a bloody good grunt and back off 1/3 of a turn. Can't remember where I got it from but it works and is very easy to remember without needing a torque wrench! As above the Td5 onwards nuts have a spacer between the bearing shells and use a different system. You can actually fit either bearing system to either age of vehicle - the stub axle threads are the same - so instead of messing around trying to find the right spacer for a Td5 age vehicle you can bin the spacer and stake nuts, fit the double nuts and tab washer and do it the old way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 slap plenty of grease on everything, fit new bearings, tighten inner (1st nut) and rotate wheel/hub at same time to settle bearings/push excess grease out of the way, back nut off again until loose make sure your hands are oily/greasey, grab hub nut socket and tighten inner nut as hard as possible until your grip on the socket slips (only grip the socket-not the T bar/breaker bar/ratchet etc-just the socket or box spanner thingy) fit tab washers, tighten outer nut till you fart (pretty tight) knock tab washer over inwards and outwards onto both nuts. Never any problems doing it this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Was there any vibration or wheel wobble before you took the car for the MOT? After you overdid the bearings first time, did you check them for damage or put new ones in? (if the rollers were damaged or broken up it would give you a bit of a square wheel feel) Prop UJ's as said will give a definite clunky vibration. Only takes a tiny bit of play. Bloody obvious I know, but check the wheel nuts are all tight! Doesn't sound like you've got vibration because of steering play, but check you've reseated the drag link and tie bar joints correctly and they're in good nick, there's no play in the panhard rod bushes and the steering box is adjusted properly - all these will give a bad wheel wobble at about 50mph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 slap plenty of grease on everything, fit new bearings, tighten inner (1st nut) and rotate wheel/hub at same time to settle bearings/push excess grease out of the way, back nut off again until loose make sure your hands are oily/greasey, grab hub nut socket and tighten inner nut as hard as possible until your grip on the socket slips (only grip the socket-not the T bar/breaker bar/ratchet etc-just the socket or box spanner thingy) fit tab washers, tighten outer nut till you fart (pretty tight) knock tab washer over inwards and outwards onto both nuts. Never any problems doing it this way. Exactly what I do, no problems for me either though I just had to adjust the bearings on one side after a year. They looked fine so perhaps I hadnt got the outer race fully home the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 I've had an MoT place mis-diagnose a worn swivel pin as a loose wheel bearing. It even fooled me the first time I tried to adjust it - because that's what they told me, that's what I expected to see. Loose swivels would go along with the 50mph wobble too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie64 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 wow loads of great advice ive got a big list of things to check tonight now when i get away from work incidently i have two friends that are mechanics at a landrover garage and no one there knew the proper way either, so its good to know this community is better prepared and more useful than and official garage lol thanks everyone tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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