Retroanaconda Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Or even cheaper: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151211948494 In fact these are cheap enough that I'm gonna take a punt on them and see what they're like. Chinese relays will probably need replacing and obviously it won't be Defender-specific but I reckon I can make it fit and it's worth a go for the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Wow - that's stupidly cheap, and even includes postage from China... Wires don't look as thick as the UK one though, and you'd probably need to budget an extra tenner for some decent relays, but it's still cheap!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 how cheap is that, couldn't make it for 6 quid over hear the 2 relays would cost more than that, look forward to your fitting & results report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrbff Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 If you don't like electrickery and want a simpler / quicker (if more expensive) option, someone on ebay is doing a plug and play loom kit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321280431149?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Unfortunately according to the listing this isn't suitable for a 1995 300Tdi 110. No idea why not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Unfortunately according to the listing this isn't suitable for a 1995 300Tdi 110. No idea why not. I'm not sure why not - but it should work anyway - it's pretty much a pre-built duplicate of the home made solutions that have been suggested in the thread already... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Have just read the fitting instructions (www.RayneAutomotive.co.uk). Can't see any reason why it should not be suitable for any 300Tdi with H4 bulbs fitted. The loom takes power off directly off the alternator and does not fuse until after the live lead has been trailed over the engine compartment. Good place to take a live feed because it will be the highest voltage point in the entire truck. However, would recommend an additional fuse as close as possible to the alternator, plenty of wire support etc and sealing relays before fitting. I'd also recommend carrying a spare set of headlamp bulbs - I seem to remember reading somewhere that the life of ordinary tungsten bulbs has a 7th power relationship with working voltage. So a 10% increase in working voltage would halve life. Tungsten halogen not as bad in that respect and, unlike plain tungsten, reduces life if run below rated voltage because temperature does not necessarily get high enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutz Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Well..... I have 1 95 300tdi & like you the lights were appalling, I actually drove 1 mile on side lights and didn't realise as even on dipped beam they were about 2 candle power!!!! These were the original sealed beam units, obtained 2 Wipac crystal units, kept original rear bowls, threw away the lamps that came with them; then went to Halfords and bought 2x 90% brighter lamps £24 ish. I have all the relays etc. to upgrade the wiring but havn't done it yet. This was a vast improvement and has had no detrimental effect on the existing components. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Well..... I have 1 95 300tdi & like you the lights were appalling, I actually drove 1 mile on side lights and didn't realise as even on dipped beam they were about 2 candle power!!!! These were the original sealed beam units, obtained 2 Wipac crystal units, kept original rear bowls, threw away the lamps that came with them; then went to Halfords and bought 2x 90% brighter lamps £24 ish. I have all the relays etc. to upgrade the wiring but havn't done it yet. This was a vast improvement and has had no detrimental effect on the existing components. Hope this helps. Can you shed any light here Mutz? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=87804 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I think the reason it's not suitable is if you have dim dip enabled it may not work. But easily disabled if you wish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Or even cheaper: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151211948494 In fact these are cheap enough that I'm gonna take a punt on them and see what they're like. Chinese relays will probably need replacing and obviously it won't be Defender-specific but I reckon I can make it fit and it's worth a go for the money. Just ordered one of these looms, waiting for it to arrive now, then we will see how it performs, got to replace a main beam headlight bulb too, so can combine both jobs in one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukspike Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Ralph. Hope you do a write up when it arrives, thinking of do this myself, and how cheap is that if they work. Spike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Ralph. Hope you do a write up when it arrives, thinking of do this myself, and how cheap is that if they work. Spike. Yes, I can do that, should be to hard to fit. will post some photo's when it arrives too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 I ordered one too, reasoning the same as retroanaconda It's quite far down the to do list once it arrives tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutz Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 In response to Reb 78 I had a brief glimpse through that thread. No fitting problems at all, can get lamps out from rear reasonably ok. Set up, by marking on garage wall old head light position then re aligning with new units. Been through MOT no problems!!! They are not loose, do not fall out when off-roading. Just been out and checked, they are Wipac and E marked and polycarb fronts. Must be lucky I guess!! Cant post the link on here for some reason. I got mine off the bay from Bolt on Bitz, wipac freeform headlights. Bought them in 2012 and they are still going on fine. bit more expensive now!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 No it will just have a relay to turn off the headlights with the ignition. The full load still runs through the switch. Mo Is there a way of re wiring this? so the switch switches the relay at all times? It appears all the components are already there. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 It's much easier just to add the additional wiring harness Daan. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Yes, I can do that, should be to hard to fit. will post some photo's when it arrives too. well the 6 quid loom arrived today, I'll add some photo's later, looks well made & decent quality terminals/relays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Mine too arrived yesterday, as you say quality seems okay, but it will not directly fit a defender without modification Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Seems like so much hassle and expense when a set of Quadoptics and a couple of Halfords 55/65 plus 60% Whites will be more than adequate for the task Might be worth throwing on a set of medium range spots for hi beam, just to fill in the gaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Dave, It may seem like a fair bit of hassle but it really does work well, I've had the upgraded wiring( I followed mmgemini's diagram) on my 90 for about 3 years now and the difference is great-at least 50+ % better lighting just using ordinary H4 bulbs, I live in somerset and the area I live in-Frome has some really dark roads as there is very little street lighting unless you're in one of the towns that is, so for me It was a no brainer to do and I'm really glad I did It. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I've got the upgraded wipac lights and Phillips Brilliance bulbs and the headlights still aren't great - the light is noticeably yellow due to lack of voltage - a relay switched loom is on my shopping list at some point soon - but I think my mishmash 90 has a ford alternator not a landy one, so whatever I get will need modifying to fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I believe that, like with everything else, each 110/90/130 differs. Age of wiring, condition of wiring etc. My own 110 was rebuilt by the factory prior them selling it off - so it's a '93 spec on an '89 plate and it has good electrics... I've thought about Mike's conversion - which is superb in the flesh - but I don't need it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scandi Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 With original wiring in good condition you should have a decent light output although it leaves room for improvement to say the least. You may on your car have poor earth connections for the headlights and/or earth strap/cable from battery to the chassis. The earth strap/cable goes from the battery negative and connects first to the chassis and then continues to the bell housing or gear box. I had an issue with the earth strap and brazed the lug on to the cable. Clean the connection area of the chassis to bare metal before refitting after which you can spray it with some rust inhibitor. The poor light went away together with some other weird water temperature and fuel level indicator problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 I fitted a set of Wipac quadoptic standard headlamps to the farm 110 prior to its MOT due to a failed sealed beam unit. I couldn't source another sealed unit but my friendly parts supplier had a set in stock at a great price. Checked the voltage at the multiplug prior to changing and was getting a good 13v with the engine running....fitted the new ones (had osram night breakers fitted too) and wow what a difference! It's very rarely used for any great distances in the dark so the lights had never been an issue. I was contemplating the bling LED units for my own 90 but just ordered some new quadoptics instead. (That's a few hundred quid towards the winch! Lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hazza Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Has anyone else fitted their 6quid loom yet and if so what are your thoughts? I'm chuffed with mine for the cost but have found that if I have dipped beam on then I can't pull the stalk towards me to flash high beam? If dipped is off then the flash works fine? Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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