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200tdi Spigot bush removal issues


Maverik

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Hi folks, trying to remove a spigot bush from a 200tdi crank...

I've done a fair bit of searching and the common method seems to be the "hydraulic" way, or using grease a suitable plunger and a big hammer...

OK, I've tried this method and managed to trash a socket extension bar due to the thwacking I've given it and the bush hasn't moved a mm...

Gave the flange a bit of heat didn't seem to make much difference. I was considering some freezing spray, or just trying to cut a careful slot in it and pull it out...

Main question is how much abuse can I give the end of the crank, I was acutely aware I was bashing a shaft with quite tightly toleranced bearings!!! so maybe I wasn't hitting it hard enough, but to be honest I would be rather uncomfortable hitting it harder than I have already... and I hope I've not done any internal damage to the main bearings...

So has anyone got any advice at all?

Cheers

Mav

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i've always used the grease method... Apart from mine which pulled out with my index finger. You need to pack the hole with grease and use something with a very snug fit. I use my clutch alignment tool, but thats something i made on a lathe at work.

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Agreed, the plunger needs to be a very snug fit, no more then 0.01" under the diameter of the bearing, ideally made out of brass, pack the end of the crank with grease apart from say 1/4" to allow entry of the plunger then give it a very hard couple of whacks, the spigot will come free. If it doesnt then the only resort is a very small die grinder and split the bush.

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I found something that was close, but not tight enough to do the hydraulic method. Could have been an old socket extension. I roughed up the edges with a punch, all in one direction and then inserted it into the bush, when turned, the rough bits dug into the bush and enabled me to pull the bush out. Didn't matter that it was damaged since i was replacing it.

(don't know if that's described particularly well, but hopefully makes sense.

edit to add - the last two i removed pulled out with easily by hand. Not always that easy though!

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Thanks for the advice, I'll try tighten up my "piston" fitting, but also had an idea of using a pipe expander tool and a reverse hammer... will let you know how I get on... still rather wary of thumping the crank...

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I usually do them with a slide-hammer and the very small 'internal' 3-leg bearing-puller supplied with the slide-hammer for just this purpose.

Much less-messy than all that buggering about with grease which inevitably gets itself on the face of the flywheel and/or in your hair when it shoots out unexpectedly..

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I usually do them with a slide-hammer and the very small 'internal' 3-leg bearing-puller supplied with the slide-hammer for just this purpose.

Much less-messy than all that buggering about with grease which inevitably gets itself on the face of the flywheel and/or in your hair when it shoots out unexpectedly..

If only I had hair for it to get into!!! :wacko:

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I've also seen people use a slice or two of bread instead of the grease! That may well be less fussy about the tolerance of the fitting of the piston.

Admittedly this isn't a land rover but it's cleaner than grease :)

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I suppose you could 'Dremmel' it out if all else fails. Good that your changing it tho, Had my clutch changed and they didn't change the bush, 'squealed like a pig' Funny really as it didn't squeal before. Anyway I 'persuaded' them that it should have been done , and they took it all out again and swapped the bush for no extra charge.I think I was very lucky.

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I've generally just pulled them out with my finger, but if i couldn't I'd use a carbide bur in a die grinder.

Carbide burs are useful for just about anything, grinding nuts and bolts off manifolds and starter motors saves a HUGE amount of time.

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Another way that has been mentioned from time to time is to use

a suitable size (thread) tap, with a ball bearing or other spacer in the bottom

of the spigot bush hole. When the tap meets the spacer keep turning and the

now threaded bush is wound up the tap.

However, the grease method has always worked for me.

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Hmm I have a feeling that this bush may be stuck a little harder than most... the inside of the bell housing was full of guff from a leaking rear oil seal and a leaking clutch slave cylinder the bush looks old and worn, I really don't want to damage this engine by thumping it, so going to cut it out...

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  • 1 year later...

I put a liberal blob of copper slip in there. After a good bit of thinking about it that is. Came to the conclusion it wouldn't do any harm. There's a clever reverse bevel cut into the flywheel centre to stop oilyness from being flung onto the friction surface.

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I used a hammer and sharp chisel to cut a slot, allowing it to slide right out by finger. It maade a very light score ont he crank, the raised burr I removed with a round file - the slight score doesn't do any harm as it's hair thin and it's not a bearing surface. Freeze the new bush before drifting it in.

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