FridgeFreezer Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 After many months of farting around, disinterested builders, planning permission, remortaging the cat, etc. we are finally getting a garage extension capable of housing all my junk valuable treasures and toys highly useful tools and equipment plus one of the money pits Land Rovers. The builders are about the break up the driveway and do foundations/floor so before we get past the point of no return / set in concrete, what should I be putting on the to-do list? So far I have: Plastic duct under the garden, coming up inside the garage so I can run power / internet / whatever through without having to make a new hole every time Make sure they make the concrete garage floor smooth A couple of standard 100mm air-vent holes in the wall for ventilation / fume extraction (seen the price of 100mm core drills, easier to leave a brick out on the way up!) What else is a good idea at the building phase? I will be putting in a very solid mains feed, 32A at least but higher if poss, and plenty of lighting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Ensure the slab is properly damp proofed, and this ties in with the DPC in the walls, to keep it nice and dry for all your tools etc. You can get vent bricks to put in the wall if desired? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Water tap close by somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 hot water!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Will the garage be detached from the house? If not then allow provision for a radiator in the garage - great for drying out wet clothing you don't want in the house 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 I agree with Retroanaconda - I would definately have a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) laid if at all possible. It may have been included in the spec, but plenty of garage floors don't have them as they aren't for a 'habitable' room. Regards, Diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 A drain would be surprisingly useful as well as at least cold water if not hot. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Belfast sink can sometimes be useful heating is too. Think about floor finish too (oil resistant), non slip when wet. Good insulation and infiltration control (quicker to heat). Resisted a shower in mine or swmbo would have me living out there too I have a 40a supply and more double sockets than you can shake a stick at at a good spacing for the bench work plus v good lighting coverage for benching and lathes mills parts washers etc Alarm, good external lighting too Could consider if you'll ever have a vehicle lift (footings) or lifting beam for chain block. Millions of options depends what your use will be Master off switch for sockets (saves making sure the compressor is actually off and not just up to pressure.... Same if you use an electric heater ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 I'm resisting adding full plumbing & sewerage but valid points all. If I get the plastic duct in I can always poke a length of hose through it later to supply water. It's detached so no central heating but a wood burner may well appear at some point. DPM is an excellent point as we're at the bottom of a hill hence do gather a lot of moisture. The extension is being attached to the front of an existing single garage which I suspect is NOT damp-proofed (it's very damp, anyway ) although the leaky roof doesn't help that. Planning on either screed or floor paint to keep things nice & hopefully cut down moisture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Use epoxy floor paint that should keep the damp at bay. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Lifting beam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Use epoxy floor paint that should keep the damp at bay. Mike +1 for Epoxy floor covering (I may one day get my garage clear to do mine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 From the posts I guess you are talking brick walls. My ultimate would be to stud them with wooden lathes/ infill with Cellotex insulation and nail plasterboard -(joint taped and skimmed would be a luxury). Just to have a biggish garage sounds good to me. Cheers Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Lifting beam, and lots and lots of insulation. Put in water, fit a frost-stat, and run some trace heating wire along it, this will a) stop frost bursting the pipe and b) give you enough hot water to wash your hands in when you turn the tap on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 amake sure you leave some strong pull cordage/rope in the duct to pull the cable/s. And never remove the rope without threading another onto the end of it when pulling another cable. Oh and a smallish RCD/MCB distribution box for mains. eg 6A lights 6A alarm etc things. and 32/40A for ring sockets or blue plug. Then when you trip the ring with tools you will be ableto see the way out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Pit? I would run another duct for hot and cold water.Why not put a 4" soil pipe going out the slab towards a drain/ sewer to save any cutting later on. Sounds like you've covered most bases apart from disco light speed and the place for all the 10+13mm spanners/sockets to disappear to. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Two strong points in the slab, preferably deep in the ground as well to pull against (or between), great for straightening and bending. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Water and a drain is useful. Not sure if I'd put it the duct - will the outside of the pipe get condensation? Cold water through the warm ground? That said it's already been through the ground so maybe not a problem? Insulation has to be a must? I have 44mm polystyrene on all walls ceilings and doors and even with no heating on it feels warm when you walk in from outside. I ended up with a 32 amp supply, when I worked out the cable to go up to 64 amp it was huge and the reality of pulling more than 32 in one go is unlikely for one guy. My domestic supply is only 100 amp anyway. Make sure the slab is strong enough to jack off and wheel a pallet truck with a lathe on Make sure the door is big enough to get your car's in, the roof is high enough to allow a vehicle to allow jacking and you get light. If your worried about security maybe you could splash out on roof windows? Also finish it before you fill it otherwise you'll never finish it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davie Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 get a chimney liner built into roof at build stage so its all well sealed up, easier to just stick a wood stove in later on then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 If you ever need to get a rope through a duct tie a carrier bag to the rope then tape a vacuum cleaner to the other end of the duct. Amazing how quick they shoot through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 A little annexe to the shed to keep the compressor in so you don't have to listen to it and it doesn't suck in all the dust you make in the workshop/shed/garage. Now is the ideal time to pour the little slab for that annexe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twizzle Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 you could go old school and have a pit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Think about your rain water too. When I was digging for mine i found both the surface water and grey water pipe. I tapped into the grey water for the sink and washing machine but didn't think to tap into the surface water for the gutter. It's on my christmas to do list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 Not bothered by a pit, the 109 is tall enough you hardly have to duck to walk round underneath anyway Getting things through ducts is no problem, I used to work for BT. The vacuum trick is a good one, sort of the inverse of blown fibre! Garage is a bit far from the drain to start tapping into it, and the also-happening kitchen extension is causing enough issues around the drainage & sewers to make me steer well clear of adding to the problems. May well need a new soakaway for the gutters, will get the builders on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Insulation under the slab. Insulation in the walls. Make the slab thick enough to have the option for a lift at a later date? Have chimney let into the roof when building so it can be sealed properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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