adyb88 Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Hi I have found a '98 110 defender with a dead engine and bought it for my next project - the problem is its in the middle of nowhere in the French alps. I need to shift it about 100km but the first 20 or so are v steep over a big pass with lots of tight hairpins - up and down. All the steep stuff is paved. Tow truck/trailer v expensive and difficult anyway because of narrow bridges so plan is to use a longish towrope and take it v v easy. Tow vehicle is a RR V8 so got the gas for it. Brakes and steering seem serviceable, have fluid etc. Any tips/warnings please? done plenty of tows before but not like this - will test of course. Thanks Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Dead engine = no vacuum = no brakes. Can you rig up a fresh battery and an electric vacuum pump to the servo? And I'd be using a solid bar rather than a rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 When my 109 died on the PO (timing belt went) on Devils staircase, he was recovered with a 110 pulling on a rope and a 90 pushing on a bar...made for an interesting recovery! I'd be very tempted to do similar to give you extra braking. Radio communication a help, solo recovery a definite NO NO!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Make sure the keys are in the ignition too..... Sounds obvious but you don't want the steering lock coming on around a corner. Could you not have a vehicle behind it connected by a rope to act as your brakes? They did a similar thing on mega truckers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 You definately want to give thought to braking. You don't want the RR tow vehicles brakes overheating if going down a steep descent towards a hairpin... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adyb88 Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Thanks all for the points raised. Yes indeed braking my biggest concern. Fresh batteries will not be a problem so following up servo pump suggestion. I've been discussing a bar vs rope with local accomplice and we went for a rope due to the very tight corners and places where you really need to get the tow car out of the way... I'm thinking that a 4x4 (or tractor) no 3 bringing up the rear is indeed the safest bet if any doubts about brakes onboard.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 How dead is the engine exactly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Dead engine = no brake assistance AND no PAS (if it has it). I'd be checking the handbrake is functional before setting off as it can get very wearing holding a vehicle on the brakes for a long time whilst rigging is going on. If it's ALL downhill you'd almost be better off with the RR behind it acting as the brakes, depending on the state of both vehicles it can always give it a shove from behind (or if you're using a sturdy tow-pole it can push). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 No one has mentioned using a towing A-frame yet... This would have the advantage of a solid connection between the two vehicles, and much safer than a single towing pole. Also there would be no need for anyone to be steering in the towed motor, although any braking effort would be useful. If the hairpins can be driven without a shunt, a trailed vehicle on an A-frame should also make the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 I'd be inclined to top and tail it with a pair of diesel powered vehicles simply because they provide more engine braking. Be very awair that something heavy behind you is very capable on a rigid pole to push your backend somewhere you really don't want to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Does the engine turn over ? depending on whats wrong with it you can stick it in gear from time to time, it only takes a short while every so often to get some vacuum for the servo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 I would also go for an A-frame, and take it really slow down the hill, using low range to slow you down, taking a pause every now and again if you are at all worried about the tow vehicle getting brake fade. I have towed big 15t + 4x4 trucks with dead engines and made a plan with air lines to the back vehicle to "ensure" brakes, and I know from experience just when you need the brakes you have jury rigged the system will fail on you, your vacuum pump won't keep up or the terminal running it will overheat or something similar. a good solid A-frame and a slow tow cannot be beaten, we use this for recoveries out of the africa bush and it works very well. if you have a passenger during this phase they can help by applying brakes in the rear vehicle, whilst the brakes won't be very effective at all they will certainly still help (this person needs a strong right thigh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 The towing vehicle needs to be well ballasted as either single pole or A frame runs the risk of pushing the back of the RR sideways Ideal would be A frame on front and solid bar linking recovered vehicle to third vehicle. To be honest tho such a set up for recovering a 110 is a bit over the top , your biggest requirement is people who know what they are doing rather than what you are using, also speed is a big factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 20 km is not that far. See if any of the local farmers would be happy to tow you over that section on a solid link using a tractor. Be safest option I would have thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yostumpy Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Does the engine turn over ? depending on whats wrong with it you can stick it in gear from time to time, it only takes a short while every so often to get some vacuum for the servo one other thing no one has mentioned here, IF the engine will turn over, ie cambelt gone, then some engine braking can be expected, in low range, can it not? also charging up the servo, plus gentle application of h/brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Why not beg, borrow or hire a decent trailer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yostumpy Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 not to mention any snow that may or may not be in the Alps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 A 110 won't push a RR Around on an A-Frame unless the speeds you trying at are too high, at a too high speed it won't matter how heavy the towing vehicle is it will be pushed around, but with an A-frame the push will be central and not lopsided. The secret is to start really slowly, I mean really slowly, first gear, using the engine to brake and get a feel for it, then go to second and do the same. You will save a lot of time going down the hill slowly rather than trying to pull two broken vehicles out the ditch. As other members have pointed out the easiest would be a proper vehicle trailer, then you have brakes and no fiddling to try fix towbars etc to the 110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 pull the injectors and/or glow plugs and leave the engine in gear to allow the engine to spin over easily and provide braking vacuum. If the cambelt has gone then as above but take the push rods out (if a LR engine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidW Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Has the OP done this yet? - I'm interested to know how it went! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 And me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 If he doesn't answer, do we assume the worst.....? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 A RR will be pushed around by a solid connection , I have used a 110 connected to a 90 by a solid bar in deep snow off road, for traction reasons and it requires very careful driving by the second driver , i have also experienced a RR being pushed by a heavy trailer at quite a low speed on a wet downhill bitumen road due to the push lifting the rear end . Its also surprising the amount of traction needed to tow a disabled 110 uphill by a another 4wd with double diff locks , the solution required the other 4wd having to climb solo and then the 110 winching itself upto it and repeat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanger Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 If its down hill just ride it out solo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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