Bowie69 Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Some, others I used elsewhere you had to do a minor mod inside to bypass the rest of the circuitry, and connect live and neutral to just one end of the tube. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 11, 2020 Author Share Posted April 11, 2020 Got loads of space in the roof, could fit a spare car up here in bits 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Are you doing it like a mezzanine at each end James? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Be careful how you use that space. When I replaced the roof on my garage I used ‘attic’ style roof trusses. They create far more useable space than the conventional ‘W’ construction. You have even more and it will be very useful I’m sure. I got into the habit of storing an increasing amount of stuff up there but I don’t know what the loading limit is or even if I would notice any deflection on the beams before they show signs of splitting! I thus have to be careful what goes up there but no matter how selective I am, it is full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 Yep, to be floored with 12mm ply which will stiffen it up nicely. Even now with my weight there’s minimal deflection. You wouldn’t want to jump around up there but it’s fairly sturdy. My intended use for it is storage of light and bulky stuff like headlinings and seat cushions, any slightly heavier bits can go at the sides where there’s most strength. If in the future I want to store heavier stuff up there I could put vertical supports in which would make it very strong, at the cost of some storage space flexibility. Given that there is likely to be a car in the building most of the time, access will mostly be from the sides anyway so some supports in the centre wouldn’t affect things too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 More insulation and boarding today, and I’ve now basically run out of materials so that’s the end to any major progress until the builders merchants open up again. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 You have a chainsaw and forest keys... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 On 4/13/2020 at 6:36 PM, Ed Poore said: You have a chainsaw and forest keys... Go and cut down some chipboard trees! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Can we order some ? Seriously. Good progress - very, very nice ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 OSB is one thing, but finding insulation trees is more difficult Or paint, electrics, drainage, ballast etc. etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Whilst unloading a wagon last week I was puzzled to see a ton bag of clippings on it, after questioning the driver it seems people have taken to Costco etc to mail order gardening supplies, I'd have never have imagined mail ordering a ton of gravel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 10 hours ago, Retroanaconda said: OSB is one thing, but finding insulation trees is more difficult Or paint, electrics, drainage, ballast etc. etc. You're missing a trick then. Should get on it and plant some! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 Finished the boarding on this wall, just the opposite wall to do now. And the roof of course. What would be the learned consensus be on the personnel door, open onwards or outwards? Because of where the doorway is there won’t be an issue with wasted space for an inside opening door. The wall between the doorway and the big vehicle opening will have the consumer unit at the top and then a couple of shallow shelves for keys/phone/bits & bobs etc. so not wasted wall space either. Hinges are also more secure on the inside. The positioning of the door frame within the opening will mean an outwards opening door will only go to around 90 degrees and would then require restraining to stop it blowing around if left open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 23 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said: Finished the boarding on this wall, just the opposite wall to do now. And the roof of course. What would be the learned consensus be on the personnel door, open onwards or outwards? Because of where the doorway is there won’t be an issue with wasted space for an inside opening door. The wall between the doorway and the big vehicle opening will have the consumer unit at the top and then a couple of shallow shelves for keys/phone/bits & bobs etc. so not wasted wall space either. Hinges are also more secure on the inside. The positioning of the door frame within the opening will mean an outwards opening door will only go to around 90 degrees and would then require restraining to stop it blowing around if left open. Outside door with those really offset hinges like on conservatories? I forget their name. Would allow it to go flat back against the wall. Security wise then have some door bolts so even if hinges were cut you wouldn’t get the door out of the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 Do you mean flag hinges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 I’d want it to open outside and flush the the wall with by the window ... working with the door open is great in good weather - it’s be convenient to go in and out of the house, plus I’d be standing things in that corner by the big door and using every inch of floor space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 1 hour ago, Bowie69 said: Do you mean flag hinges? Just googled them and no... after a bit of searching, they’re called Parliament Hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 I d'suggest opening to the outside. Safer in case of emergency. Also, isn't it specified in the building code ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 It seems that parliament hinges don’t exist for uPVC doors, just the normal flag or butt hinges. The only way I’d get it to fold back against the wall on the outside would be to set the door frame right at the outer edge of the wall aperture. I’m not keen on this for a number of reasons, one it won’t match the windows but more importantly it will make it harder to achieve a good weather seal and trim the cladding neatly. I’ll speak to the company when they open again, but if I get an outward opening one I think I’ll be able to get it to open to just over 90 degrees fairly easily and then can choose the frame positioning in the aperture to give me an acceptable compromise between opening angle and depth or recess. As long as it’s over 90 degrees it’ll be fine, I’ll just have to fit a hook so that I can secure it in the open position. No requirements in building regulations either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 I'd also go for an outward opening door, as it's harder for an intruder to kick in, but also look at the infill panels, they will all to often give way to a combination of sustained pressure from a broad screwdriver and a vigourously applied boot. For security a thick wooden door might be better. I'd put the hinges inside and fabricate them to allow the opening you want, When the door is closed the hinges will protrude inside, by a significant amount, and that may be a problem during the winter when the door is closed and you are moving about inside. To create your design, visualise the door in the open position you want, go for 180 degrees if that's what you really desire, then 'shape' your hinge arm to go across the width of the door, and the width of the door frame, this will give you an idea where you need the hinge pin. Cardboard aided design might help here. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 Is outward-opening safe? Suppose something falls against the door? Or kids jam it with a plank under the handle? Bit like a rope round an old-fashioned phone box! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 We are talking about one of two doors here. This is assuming the 'vehicle' doors interlock. If they open independently he has three means of exit, without considering the windows. As I said, personally I'd have a solid wood personal door, with no external handle, merely a Yale type lock, where you twist the key to unlock it, then pull on the twisted key to open the door. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 Safety isn’t an issue - the other doors and windows will open from the inside so there are numerous escape routes. The building is in my back garden, so I’m not sure why any kids would want to block the door! A timber door is well and good, I made one for the old place, but there is no way that I could make a door myself that would come close to being as well sealed as an off the shelf uPVC door. If I wanted it super secure I could get a steel security door but I don’t think that’s warranted here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 With some of these replies, it makes it sound like you live in a very dodgy area! I'd have it open inwards to the right against the wall. Maximum visual upon entering the building, no chance of the wind catching it on a windy day and takes up no room within the building as the area in front of a door is classed as dead space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 Another reason to open outwards.... think of a project of some sort that’s ‘spreading’ that space the door takes when it swings could mean the difference between having the space and not. Just thinking about the whole envelope of space the door takes up when it’s opening and not just open. Just thinking about mine, and the man-door opening outwards means I have stuff leant up in the corner by the door. I then have to move it when I want the roller up to let the door frame move inwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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