Chicken Drumstick Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 The TDV6 has been used in many many vehicles in 2.7 and 3.0 litre guise. But it has a bit of a reputation of snapping cranks. Some circles proclaim it is only the 2.7 that suffers this, while others will refute this can claim 2.7's are fine and it is the 3.0 litre that suffers. The engine seems on the whole to be a great performer from an mpg vs power/torque point of view. With the 3.0 pumping out upto 296bhp in some applications, more than the TDV8's..... But would the risk of potential doom put you off owning these? Or are the chances too far and few between to worry? After some reading up it seems there is no warning when an engine will let go and is often on low mileage units (the ones I've seen posted about 11k-16k miles). And JLR seem to refuse to want to do anything to help or accept there is an issue if it is outside of warranty. With dealers quoting £12,000 - 18,000 for a replacement. It would seem to be a rather large financial gamble. Esp at the price point many of the vehicles are at, even if they are only 4-5 years old (which in N. America would be under warranty....). Peoples thoughts on these? Would you put your money on one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 Well one view is the Korean government who refused its sale there unless JLR guaranteed to fix failures of any age for free. Something they challenge in their home market! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 I bought one in 2018. I wanted an L322. SWMBO said the L322 was 'too posh'..... We ended up with a D3. I spent months scared to take it far. Have put 25k on it now and all I have done in terms of major work are the front lower arms. It had a coolant leak from an overcomplicated and poorly made part on top of the engine but I caught that as a weep. Its tight to work on but not impossible. A few folks have got engines out with the body on and cross over pipes changed in situ now so people are finding ways around the 'body off' in the WSM. I still feel its a gamble and still want an l322 but our TDV6 has been a decent engine ... so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 2 hours ago, reb78 said: I bought one in 2018. I wanted an L322. SWMBO said the L322 was 'too posh'..... We ended up with a D3. I spent months scared to take it far. Have put 25k on it now and all I have done in terms of major work are the front lower arms. It had a coolant leak from an overcomplicated and poorly made part on top of the engine but I caught that as a weep. Its tight to work on but not impossible. A few folks have got engines out with the body on and cross over pipes changed in situ now so people are finding ways around the 'body off' in the WSM. I still feel its a gamble and still want an l322 but our TDV6 has been a decent engine ... so far... I went the other way in 2015 and bought a 2010 3.6 TDV8 L322, it is now time to think about changing for a newer L405. I know for sure I wont be risking the 3.0 TDV6. If I change it will be the 4.4SDV8 or possibly the 5.0 petrol. I have had my 3.6 for 6 years and only changed EGRS,Dad has had his 4.4and I have done nothing other than a starter motor. Equally had mates with loads of trouble free miles on TDV6's......and also a mate that specialises in buying and selling seized /snapped crank ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 I had a 3.0 in a Jaguar XFS, so it was the highest output for that engine. Great car, amazing engine but a constant worry and it was in the dealership every month for 9 months for various issues. One of those was a cracked intake manifold that was the better part of £1k to replace, and then it seized a month later due to some kind of Foreign Object Debris getting into a cylinder and jamming the piston before TDC. Definitely not due to the recent work on the intake, though............................................................ Never actually suffered the dreaded bearing spin. Miss driving the car greatly, don't miss owning it. Like the engines, they're top-class (when they work). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 I've owned my (2005) TDV6 D3 for almost exactly 9 years, was on 62k when I bought it, now somewhere near 210k. In that time it's needed a handful of new injectors, and new air intake pipes, and that's about it. Plenty of other issues, but those are the engine related ones. At the current mileage, I now view it as a disposable car - I keep up with the essential maintenance, (6k oil changes etc.), but the first 'big' problem will render it scrap. I'm not shy of doing any job on my cars, but the complexity of the engine, the amount of work involved in removing it, and questions over quality of new parts puts me off the idea of fixing it. I don't often watch tube videos, but this one was quite good at showing the size of the problem LINK I've read some stuff recently about using Ford bearing shells which sounded hopeful, but it would still be an expensive, time consuming job and at the end it would still be dragging around a rusty ageing Discovery. It seems a shame, the D3 is a great drive, the engine is smooth and torquey, and does a great job of hiding the immense weight of the disco (and the driver ) even when towing. When the time comes, I'd love to replace it with one of the last D4, but the number of snapped cranks / spun sheels reported really does put me off. The fact that D4 prices are insane at the moment (probably all s/hand cars I guess) doesn't help. I reckon the book price of the equivalent car now (7yo 60k) is double what it was when I bought the D3. The D3 was the most expensive car I've ever bought, and I only purchased because I could buy it outright, and if it blew up it would be painful, but wouldn't break me. Even allowing for inflation, I'm not sure I'd have the same attitude at todays prices - even if I had the cash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 I wouldn't touch a TDV6. Whilst there are plenty that haven't gone wrong, if they do go wrong it is a huge bill that more than likely cannot be justified against the value of the car. You cannot tell if you have a good one or a bad one until it is too late so just too binary a risk for me. It is not as if it might only go a bit wrong and cost a few hundred quid to fix is it.... In my village I have 3 friends with TDV6 discoveries. Two have had new engines in their ownership. One was lucky as it was under warranty from LR, the second had a £12k bill on a £20k car and the third is selling his! Anyhow, with the prices of used discoveries at the moment being so inflated (even by current standards) I would be looking at a TDV8 rangie, and a 4.4 at that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 Are the crank failures normally (bit not always) related to a poor oil pump design on certain aged D3's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 They're due to the lack of tangs on the main bearings allowing the bearings to spin, cutting off oil supply and very quickly welding one part while the other spins. I've heard of the oil pump issue but I think that was Disco-only, happy to be corrected though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 The oil pump is an easy fix If done BEFORE it breaks, the D4 pump was fitted to the last D3s made and is a retro fit for D3s. If you want a TDV6 then look for one with it or fit it as soon as possible. The oil pump issue is that the belt tensioner snaps the pump pulley off. Which kills the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrycol Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 28 minutes ago, reb78 said: Are the crank failures normally (bit not always) related to a poor oil pump design on certain aged D3's? Two totally unrelated issues that have different impacts on the engine. The broken crank is exactly that and may also take out the block. The oil pump issue is actually not the oil pump but a timing belt tensioner that is part of the oil pump housing - this housing breaks off detensioning the timing belt causing the valves to crash into the pistons so the bottom end of the engine is OK (including the crankshaft) but pistons and valve gear need replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 Still want one?? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/261614-Links-to-Discovery-TDv6-SDv6-Failure-Reports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted December 20, 2021 Author Share Posted December 20, 2021 2 hours ago, reb78 said: Are the crank failures normally (bit not always) related to a poor oil pump design on certain aged D3's? I’ve read about a few in Jaguar F-Paces. They seem to be arguably the best engine in that model and the same in the RR Velar. The failures I’ve read about have been on 4/5 year old vehicles with low miles (sub 20k miles). 296bhp/300PS offering very good performance and good mpg. Used the Jag can be had for low £30’s. But it seems a huge gamble if you could end up with a dead vehicle and a dealer quote of £18k to fix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 6 hours ago, garrycol said: Two totally unrelated issues that have different impacts on the engine. The broken crank is exactly that and may also take out the block. The oil pump issue is actually not the oil pump but a timing belt tensioner that is part of the oil pump housing - this housing breaks off detensioning the timing belt causing the valves to crash into the pistons so the bottom end of the engine is OK (including the crankshaft) but pistons and valve gear need replacing. Thanks. Thats a handy correction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 I have currently 2 TDV6 Disco Threes which I have used minimally without a problem. I have 4 Sport and 1 L322 TDV8 which I have driven more. The TDV8's certainly are better on the road with plenty of ooph. I am looking for a 5.0 petrol Supercharged Sport to play with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 5 minutes ago, Simon_CSK said: I have currently 2 TDV6 Disco Threes which I have used minimally without a problem. I have 4 Sport and 1 L322 TDV8 which I have driven more. The TDV8's certainly are better on the road with plenty of ooph. I am looking for a 5.0 petrol Supercharged Sport to play with. once you go SCV8, you'll never want to drive your other landys 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 8 minutes ago, Naks said: once you go SCV8, you'll never want to drive your other landys 🤣 It has almost double the BHP of my TDV8's and that is a very interesting prospect because they tend to do very well although I will probably start off with a 4.2 unless I am very lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 I have a RRS with TDV6, currently at 174,000 miles, of which I've driven 70,000. The only problem was one of the induction hoses splitting - but that was easily fixed. Paul Bass (Challenger4x4) suggested I buy one with over 100k on the clock as most of the expensive things happen before then. Thus far, he's been right. My plan for it from day one was to drive it until the engine died, then convert it to electric. Unfortunately, 10 years on, it just won't die! I think it has outlasted my enthusiasm for building my own EV! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 7 hours ago, simonr said: I have a RRS with TDV6, currently at 174,000 miles, of which I've driven 70,000. The only problem was one of the induction hoses splitting - but that was easily fixed. Paul Bass (Challenger4x4) suggested I buy one with over 100k on the clock as most of the expensive things happen before then. Thus far, he's been right. My plan for it from day one was to drive it until the engine died, then convert it to electric. Unfortunately, 10 years on, it just won't die! I think it has outlasted my enthusiasm for building my own EV! Have looked into converting myself with one of my breakers. I think they are a very good prospect as a Tesla £ engine fits in the gearbox space and the endine bay and fuel tank location provides more space than required for the batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 On 12/20/2021 at 10:16 PM, simonr said: I have a RRS with TDV6, currently at 174,000 miles, of which I've driven 70,000. The only problem was one of the induction hoses splitting - but that was easily fixed. Paul Bass (Challenger4x4) suggested I buy one with over 100k on the clock as most of the expensive things happen before then. Thus far, he's been right. My plan for it from day one was to drive it until the engine died, then convert it to electric. Unfortunately, 10 years on, it just won't die! I think it has outlasted my enthusiasm for building my own EV! I think this is the right idea. They seem to go bang before 100k if they are going to be a problem. Have one sat here with 210k on it and running just as well as the last one I had at 110k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy996 Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 I love LR Time, their humour and a take no prisoners approach. Christian also has a hypothesis that seems to make sense and explains the wide variation in longevity for the engine. He certainly understands Ford's attitude towards parts failures - if it is outside of warranty, they really don't care. I crashed into this in a previous business life when I worked for an extended warranty provider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 I found that a very informative video, well presented with no shouting and music. Thanks for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 3 hours ago, Naks said: Damn, if I wasn't put of a TDV6 yet, this video certainly did. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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