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Hello from the Isle of Man


RickB

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Hello TeriAnn

Welcome here, I have no Doormobile but a passion for LeightWeights I have owned quite a few LR's since 1980 when I got my first one.

Now I do take part in as much Challange events as money and time allows especially speed events has my inerest, having done the Baja-sazonia.de this easter has really turned that on.

Currently I run this one:

post-2143-1247340653_thumb.jpg

It is a 1969 lwt with a 2,5 Petrol a OneTon gearbox, rear mount forward working mechanical winch, you can se the first part off the build under members vechicles "the Kitten"

Build as a father and son projekt as it also is to compete in it.

Once again welcome I have had your site bookmarked for many a year now and just love it, there is so much information SUPER..

Kind regards

Ole

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Good to have another Series of superior wheelbase on the forum :D

According to my measurements I drive a Series II (not A) 111.

Before I made a change, my wheelbase measured 109-1/2 from centre dust cover to centre dust cover. I added a 1-1/2 inch offset plate between the rear diff and its leaf springs (moving the diff to the rear of the spring centre). This centred the rear wheels in the rear wheel arch, making my ever so loverly truck even more esthetically balanced and pleasing in appearance and changed the spring harmonic characteristics a little.

I will attempt to remain lady like and refrain from bashing 88's. The are after all our 109's little siblings and need to feel loved as well. :rolleyes:

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Hello TeriAnn,

and welcome!

We met last September at the NR in Moab, remember the BBQ with the Canadian gang at the camping?

I hope you and the Rover are well

:)

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Hello TeriAnn,

and welcome!

We met last September at the NR in Moab, remember the BBQ with the Canadian gang at the camping?

I hope you and the Rover are well

Thanks for the welcomes everyone!

My Rover was quite sick while at the rally. Which I found to be very frustrating because it kept me off the trails. It actually took me a couple months to track down the second of the two problems. I would not call it one of my best moments.

Problem #1 is that the charging system stopped charging on the way to the rally in Monument Valley. A new battery, clean battery connections and a rebuilt alternator didn't solve the problem. By the time I got home I had all new battery cables and a new molex connector going to the alternator as well. I ended up buying a small generator and charger to get me home. When the battery ran down I would pull over to the side, fire up the generator & put the battery on the charger for a couple hours. The cure was to first learn more about alternators. The place I got the alternator from didn't have the right replacement but sold me what I was told was an equivalent. It seemed that I gave them a 90 amp alternator and they gave me a 50 amp one in return. I have a V8 with EFI, two electric fuel pumps and a power hungry Bosh electric fan from a V8 Mercedes. Evidently the alternator could not keep up with the system when the fan came on. And since the ambient temperature as above 100 degrees F, the fan came on and I had a net drain on the charging system. Also, the circuit with the idiot light is used to create the electric field for the armature to spin in. I had a crimp on connector with oxidation below the connector insulator (and a nice shiny connection lug). The oxidized connection reduced the current level that could pass through the circuit, reducing the magnetic field needed to produce electricity. Of course, the voltage looked good when I tested with a voltmeter and the engine not running. It took me a couple weeks to find the oxidation below the insulation at the back of the connector. Once I understood the circuit I knew where to look.

Problem #2 I had converted to an EFI system to save on fuel and get better low RPM performance at high angles. I tried to save money by buying used electrical parts off ebay. Now I know what people do with the bad parts that the mechanic hands back to them at the end of a job. So I had been tracing down and fixing problems for a few months. I still had one elusive problem that occurred intermittently that seemed to be fuel related. Most of the time the engine ran just fine. a little before the trip I replaced the fuel pressure regulator because the old one as at the low end of the pressure spec. I drove around for a couple weeks and it looked like the problem was found and cured.

I declared my truck to be trail ready and headed off for the national rally with another Dormobile for company. I live on the coast where most summer days are in the mid sixties F and a hot day may break eighty degrees. As we drove inland the temperatures got well over one hundred degrees and my fuel related problem became a nightmare. My engine was running cool but my fuel lines where they passed the exhaust manifold were around 250 - 270 degrees! The frame there was around 275 degrees and I was getting vapour lock with EFI. I put the bonnet on the roof rack and was OK on the highway but not at low speeds. Who ever heard of a cool running engine and vapour lock on an EFI engine?

I tried a trail in Arches the day before the meet started to see if I could do the trails with everyone else. It took me about 9 hours to do what should have been a 2 hour of less trail. About every 15 or 20 minutes the engine died from vapour lock and I had to sit there while the fuel lines cooled down.

Back home where it was much cooler the vapour lock problem again mostly went away, so tracking it down was hard. I was talking to a Mustang EFI expert (I have 1991 Mustang EFI on a 1970 Mustang 302 engine). When I told him I was running a 180 degree thermostat he said he knew what my problem was. That EFI system takes a 190 degree thermostat (helps the engine run cleaner). When the engine is cold, the computer is in warm up mode to help the engine reach its operating temperature. In warm up mode the computer runs the engine lean so it produces more heat. The engine goes out of warm up mode when the engine reaches 185 degrees. I have a really good custom aluminum radiator that kept the engine running below 185 degrees. But with the engine burning lean, the exhaust got very hot, got the frame hot and the fuel lines hot. Too hot when the ambient air temperatures got above 100 degrees F. that was one of my Duh! how dumb can I be moments. Installing a 190 degree thermostat cured my problems. The national rally was an ego deflater for me.

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Hello from Australia

My name is Rich and I have been lurking in the Land Rover game for a while now. I own 3 landies at the moment. They are all off the road. My main interest is my 1968 ex Australian army land rover. I have owned it for about 10 years and love it. It is off the road at the moment and is getting a bit of refurb. At present I am in the process of fitting Series 1 Discovery axles to the front and rear of it.

I want to keep the basics of the Series except for sensible things like the discoery brakes etc. It runs a 2.25 Petrol 4 cyl with the 4 speed gearbox. My series has a 6000 pound Bamford Smith PTO winch on the front.

My dream is to tour Australia in the old girl.

Thanks

Rich

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My name is Rich and I have been lurking in the Land Rover game for a while now. I own 3 landies at the moment. They are all off the road. My main interest is my 1968 ex Australian army land rover. I have owned it for about 10 years and love it. It is off the road at the moment and is getting a bit of refurb. At present I am in the process of fitting Series 1 Discovery axles to the front and rear of it.

Please keep us posted about how you end up routing the steering. usually there are issues involving connecting coiler steering arms up to a leaf sprung truck. I'm a bit unclear as to how the problem is solved.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi I am new to this forum but not new to Land Rover, are most people on this forum based in the UK?

Paul

.

Edited by Hybrid_From_Hell
Approved - Will stay for a day and will then move to the new members thread :o)
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