neil110

Not sure if it will be the same on a series vehicle as my 110 but I had some problems getting sensible readings from the engine temperature gauge. It would go to the top of the red section within a couple of minutes of starting the engine. The "fix" was to earth the metal case of the gauge.

No, this is every 110 I have ever had over the last 25 years. they have all gone through rear pads faster than front. Still the case with stainless pistons all ropund

Are they electric gauges or capillary?

Wasn't it a jeep that was hacked into whilst being driven and control taken over by somebody sat at a keyboard?

I find they tend to mask problems, if for instance you have a leaking piston seal, it is hidden away behind the shield. Still haven't quite worked out why I get through 4 sets of rear pads for each set of fronts though

I get that bit, the point I was trying to make is that the amount of money the insurance company wanted the following year basically charged my normal premium, plus the entire value of the accident damage claim they had paid. Thus in effect I had paid them the premium and the excess, they were just trying to recover their entire cost The other thing that galls me is that supposedly they are insuring the driver. Yet when there is a total loss claim, the policy stops and a new policy has to be taken out for the replacement vehicle

We talked about this at work and came to the conclusion that the premium you pay when you have the max no claims discount is what the insurance company needs to provide you with insurance whilst still making a profit. Everything above that is pure profit. Had a crash, years ago, dropped a bike in pouring rain on the A5. Repairs, after paying the excess, came to £1012. premium had been £247. The renewal quote for the premium was £1259.

Used to get a peculiar symptom from the clutch pedal before changing the tubular exhaust manifolds on my 110. The previous manifold on the relevant side was practically touching the slave cylinder. I had it wrapped in several layers of heat wrap. When stooging around town in traffic, the pedal feel would get gradually worse, then the peculiar fault, depress the pedal, change gear, take foot off pedal and pedal stays on the floor. The gear would engage and the truck would drive fine. a tap on the pedal with a toe would bring it back up to the normal position. Since replacing the manifold for a cast item with a different down pipe I have not had a repetition of the problem

If you have to have 7.50 X 16 there are a few options available. https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres-7.5-R-16/?m[4]=on&m[18]=on

Given that JATE is the acronym for Joint Air Transport Establishment. I would imagine that this is what they were designed for If the bolts are 12.9 type and thus possess a tensile strength of 12,000mPa and if the shear is approx 0.63 of tensile then the shear strength of each retaining bolt is 7,440 mPa or 7.44KN per mm2

From Ashcroft website. This type can also be fitted to early Disco I's but you will need to make a small machining mod to the stub for clearance, we are able to provide details of this for you. The overall length measurement is 236mm

Last time I bought a new car, the only non cost option was a peculiar shade of yellow. Any other colour was an additional 500 pounds, this on a car that only cost 6000. I told them I didn't want the yellow and flat out refused to pay for an alternative colour. Basically told them I wouldn't pay extra for the car to be painted and they could send it in bare metal for all I cared. Eventually got a purplish coloured car that was a cancelled order.

Saw a D5 today for the first time and was struck by how deep the doors are and how silly the back end looks, if the front end had not been badged "Discovery" I would have struggled to put a name to it. I only noticed it because it was coloured. I realised yesterday how very few coloured cars there are. I was walking a long a street and spotted 8 black cars parked in a row. Having nothing better to do I walked back to the start of the street and counted all the cars on the street. 132 were either black, white or a shade of grey, 31 were coloured and of those the majority were red. Pretty much all of them were insipid, unadventurous designs and looked drab. The coloured cars tended to be older as well.

If you cannot find one I have a drum salisbury cluttering up my garage floor. It has new bearings and seals in the hubs. No half shafts, brakes or diff cover.

Wrong shape rear reflector, back lights wrong type, wrong type of cable used for wiring, carppy crimp on connectors, dodgy aluminium ducting for air intake, the previously mentioned checquer plate. If you want top money for a nut and bolt restoration, then it really ought to be perfect.

I have a freelander radio for my Defender and the digital dashboard display (woohoo all mod cons here) However, what I do not have is the lead which links the two together, or the part number for said lead. Can anybody help, please?

I suppose the possibility exists that you have a faulty Unit. The description of the flasher PRC8876 is that it is the heavy duty unit for defender and RR classic. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/225380/0/flasher_unit_with_trailer_heavy_duty___range_rover_classic___defender

Mine (One_Ten) does that if I take it to full lock and hold it there. As soon as I release the steering wheel it stops hissing. Maybe, there is something tight in your steering box?

The later swivel housings AFAIK have neither a hole for topping them up or a hole for draining them which means you are really stuck if anything goes wrong

FRC3310 is the Defender speedo drive gear part number. Not sure where the 2 longer bolts fit but it becomes reasonably obvious when you start putting them in

I have a 1984 One_Ten. At various points during the time I have owned it I have fitted all sorts of bits n pieces to the axles. When I converted to Vented front discs and rear discs I fitted the later type, flatter, drive members. Then I had a prolonged chat with Ashcrofts about the merits of various items so now it runs their half shafts in the disc brake back axle and is fitted with the earlier, deep type, drive members ( I also removed the stub axle oil seals at the same time) The front is running a 4 pin diff, Ashcroft half shafts, Ashcroft AEU2522 type CVs and Ashcroft drive members. This has been the set up for about 12 years now. where was I? Oh yes, the drive members have been swapped back and forth between the various hubs without any problem whatsoever as have the retaining bolts, from the very early plain bolts to the later flanged bolts. Thus empirical research suggests that either type of drive member should fit either style hub and the threads are the same

From my days "in" and sepia tinted memory. All Green fleet Land Rovers had 8 blade fans. You could hear them coming from a distance because of the roar from the fan

Yes the seal in the stub axle which rubs on the half shaft. Yes oil migrates in both directions and it dribbles when you take the drive member off. But it keeps the wheel bearings and drive members nice and wet. Having had a drive member/half shaft rust into oblivion when it still had seals in the stub axle I doubt I will ever refit them. The oil also ensures that the upper swivel bearing stays well lubricated.

The upper body sides are not a straight swap type fit. Series upper body sides are shorter than those of a 90.

And, How is it? You can't leave us all in suspenders