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Bug List ๐Ÿœ


Anderzander

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Does everyone have a bug list? And by that I mean things that need sorting on your vehicle that bug you.ย 

Or are we all up to date with our jobs, with enough time to be on top of everything ?ย 

(I think the above would be a minority!?)

I should be super stoked riding around in my 90 after putting it on a new Galv chassis and ticking off a good number of bug things at the same time - but โ€ฆ.

So I made a list of the things that irritate me on it (to to whatever degree - almost nothing to frustrating) โ€ฆ. And Iโ€™ve ended up with 18 or 19 things !!ย 
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Whats the general state of play ?ย 
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22F58533-8983-42AF-8F68-36A2061837D6.thumb.jpeg.104723accbd6547216280313b1cdcd28.jpeg

edited to show the list !

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I think we all have a list like that.

On my 109 I have:

Burning oil (despite full engine rebuild and the head and turbo do being done again since);

Switch layout on the dash needs tidying (move the heater fan switch to the centre console with the others and use the old switch positions for warning lights);

Seat squab fabric detached from lower layers by seat heaters;

Diff ratios (WIP);

Defender side windows need new seals (Garrison Outfitter type bought second hand and waiting);

Small roof leak , think itโ€™s through the middle rib above the sunroof;

Kenlowe Hotstart internal pump seized (someone had a thread on here showing how they removed the rust seizing theirs);

Door windows seizing since being in storage (probably just needs new seals);

New batteries needed, and want to change their location and fit 100A alternator while Iโ€™m at it.

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Here's my list for my 88" Series 3, 2.25 petrol

Overhaul gearbox (Often difficult to engage forward gears from standstill)

Replace radiator cap (Allows coolant out into header tank but doesn't allow it to draw back into the system as it cools)

Engine transplant (would like to swap to 200TDi)

Overhaul front swivels (Pitted and rusted)

Tidy up rusted areas of chassis and rock sliders (Surface rust)

Replace cheap wipac side and indicator lights for better quality units

Replace fog light lens (faded)

Fit reverse light (surprising how much you miss them when you're used to driving modern vehicles)

Fix engine oil leak (Negated if I ever manage to fit a 200TDi)

Fix transfer box oil leak (Will be done when I overhaul the gearbox)

There are probably a few more that I've missed off but it's a start.

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I'm getting through my list but it's the big money items unfortunately.

1996 110 CSW at 170K miles, now used as camper

Upgrade / overhaul the powertrain - doing this now

Decide which rims to use from now on - existing Boosts or unused Wolfs and get some new tyres - can't decide on rims or tyres

Fit wing checker plates - already got them in stock

Upgrade radio with DAB but this might need a re-hash of the Mud console layout which means a new one... & whilst I'm at it, fit tweeters at face level so I can hear the &*&^ thing

If I re-do the Mud console should I get an RPM gauge or is that just bling?

Make / buy a support and then mount my hi-lift jack at the back right corner

Increase my solar wattage from 100W. I'm finding this to be marginal in Spring / Autumn when the days are short and the heater and fridge are both in use

Have a little fettle in the 'kitchen' corner as we now have a better gas hob and it needs to be a bit more permanent.

Look at the power steering oil weeps

Try to locate the engine oil weep - might be the vacuum pump or oil filter mounts

Get a tool roll so I'm not wrapping stuff in a towel

Fit a manual switch to cross-connect Start and Aux batteries in the event of a flat battery

Better security - more work on the electrical side

Slight mod to my wiring to add a switch so I can swap the internal lights across from Starter to Aux when we are parked for several days (again for shoulder seasons)

More hooks, nets and other storage inside

...

ย 

ย 

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25 minutes ago, Peaklander said:

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Upgrade radio with DAB but this might need a re-hash of the Mud console layout which means a new one... & whilst I'm at it, fit tweeters as face level so I can hear the &*&^ thing

ย 

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I fitted flush mount tweeters into the top of the dash. Look factory fit and sound great

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1 hour ago, daveturnbull said:

Crikey. That looks like a reasons to sellย scrap it listย ย :stirthepot:

Not at current defender prices it doesn't...

You all need to drive something sensible like a zafira* - then you can have only one item on your list:

1. Replace it with something that isn't boring.

ย 

* - and give your land rover to me, solving 1) above...

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3 hours ago, Anderzander said:

Does everyone have a bug list? And by that I mean things that need sorting on your vehicle that bug you.ย 

Or are we all up to date with our jobs, with enough time to be on top of everything ?ย 

(I think the above would be a minority!?)

I should be super stoked riding around in my 90 after putting it on a new Galv chassis and ticking off a good number of bug things at the same time - but โ€ฆ.

So I made a list of the things that irritate me on it (to to whatever degree - almost nothing to frustrating) โ€ฆ. And Iโ€™ve ended up with 18 or 19 things !!ย 
ย 

Whats the general state of play ?ย 
ย 

22F58533-8983-42AF-8F68-36A2061837D6.thumb.jpeg.104723accbd6547216280313b1cdcd28.jpeg

edited to show the list !

I would be ecstatic with just that...............

What's the matter not find a roach picture for your title lolย  regards Stephen

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1 hour ago, markyboy said:

Replace radiator cap (Allows coolant out into header tank but doesn't allow it to draw back into the system as it cools)

The original series cooling system (if that is what you have) has an overflow bottle fixed to the inner wing, rather than a pressurised header tank. The events you describe above are correct for this type of system. You don't want to completely fill your radiator, just make sure the cooling matrix is covered. The space left at the top is for expansion - too little space and the overflow bottle catches the excess. It's a one-way flow.
It is possible to change to aย pressurised header tank if you obtain something off a newer vehicle. On my V8 engined 88" I used a standard series 3 rad and connected the overflow to an early Range Rover brass header tank. With this arrangement you swap the original radiator cap for a blanking cap.
Pictures here c/o Google images.

image.png.2690a480468943638878a26a7666b9b6.pngย image.png.0fe633803908125b2b4b16027d83f590.png

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1 hour ago, Peaklander said:

Please post a pic. That would help me decide what to buy...

387231287_stereo4.thumb.jpg.0e9fdf972bf040f1c5a5c7cb46a57eb2.jpg1189807548_Int1.thumb.jpg.d6ab92dece35d42690e81500f3415813.jpg

ย 

Not the best pictures I am afraid as they are so well concealed! They came with surface mount pods too but I thought this was neater

ย 

I can't find the Pioneer ones I have but I am sure they came as a 2 way component set with the filters for the tweeters. This link shows a similar fitting type from Alpine though

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https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-car-audio-systems-sxe-1006tw_p-32905.htm

ย 

ย 

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1 hour ago, mickeyw said:

The original series cooling system (if that is what you have) has an overflow bottle fixed to the inner wing, rather than a pressurised header tank. The events you describe above are correct for this type of system. You don't want to completely fill your radiator, just make sure the cooling matrix is covered. The space left at the top is for expansion - too little space and the overflow bottle catches the excess. It's a one-way flow.
It is possible to change to aย pressurised header tank if you obtain something off a newer vehicle. On my V8 engined 88" I used a standard series 3 rad and connected the overflow to an early Range Rover brass header tank. With this arrangement you swap the original radiator cap for a blanking cap.
Pictures here c/o Google images.

image.png.2690a480468943638878a26a7666b9b6.pngย image.png.0fe633803908125b2b4b16027d83f590.png

Yes, the system is the original and I should have used the words "expansion tank", rather than header tank. I understand how the system is supposed to work but mine doesn't draw coolant back into the radiator and the water level sits just below the top of the cooling fins after the engine has been run. It doesnt suffer from overheating, it just isn't working correctly. The cap I have fitted is a pattern part with unknown country of origin, I think it was supplied by Bearmach.

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2 hours ago, markyboy said:

Yes, the system is the original and I should have used the words "expansion tank", rather than header tank. I understand how the system is supposed to work but mine doesn't draw coolant back into the radiator and the water level sits just below the top of the cooling fins after the engine has been run. It doesnt suffer from overheating, it just isn't working correctly. The cap I have fitted is a pattern part with unknown country of origin, I think it was supplied by Bearmach.

The original S3 expansion tank should be black plastic with the overflow/return entering at the bottom of the tank. The rad cap should have a return only poppet valve in the middle to allow the system vacuum when cooling to draw the excess in the expansion bottle back into the engine/rad . I always fill the rad completely and put 50-75mm in the expansion tank when cold .

...as for bug/to do lists ....plentyย :)

ย 

Steve

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Only one page? Bl**dy amateur! :SVAgoaway:

I have a large whiteboard in the garage full of jobs

I have a list in my phone

I have multiple notebooks

I have a wiki on my home server with a list of lists which includes reminders to look at the whiteboard/phone/notebook :ph34r:

And every time I go out to the garage I end up doing some other job that just cropped up instead <_<

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22 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

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And every time I go out to the garage I end up doing some other job that just cropped up instead <_<

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Especially when idiots on internet forums make suggestions lol regards Stephen

Edited by Stellaghost
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26 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I have a large whiteboard in the garage full of jobs

I have a list in my phone

I have multiple notebooks

I have a wiki on my home server with a list of lists which includes reminders to look at the whiteboard/phone/notebook :ph34r:

ย 

Hahahahaha ๐Ÿคฃ

ย 

OK - I feel way better now.

ย 

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14 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

OK - I feel way better now.

I should also mention I have a to-do list of jobs for the garage itself (various tidying up, clearing out, improvements, etc.) and the same again for the inventing shed...

And another gert long list for the Ambulance too... and we're supposedly going away in that this year :ph34r:

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Yep I have one. Decided to write it over the Christmas break for jobs to get done in 2022. Its grown over the past 25 days, so much so that it has almost convinced me to swap my 1988 110 for a 2000ish Td5 station wagon!ย 

EDIT: which has since started to furtherย  escalate to me reviewing getting a Tdci.ย 

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9 hours ago, monkie said:

Yep I have one. Decided to write it over the Christmas break for jobs to get done in 2022. Its grown over the past 25 days, so much so that it has almost convinced me to swap my 1988 110 for a 2000ish Td5 station wagon!ย 

EDIT: which has since started to furtherย  escalate to me reviewing getting a Tdci.ย 

Once you see the price of a car that has all the problems of your current one but at an earlier stage of decay, you might go full circle to a rebuild of your 1988.

Then you'll spend more than the cost of a newer car on doing that and wonder if it was worth it.

I don't have a bug list, I've tried to use the time to rectify everything now as I know I'll lose motivation once I start using it.

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The rebuilding aspect that is what is pushing me down this road of thought. Mine is going to need a chassis and rear axle sorted at some point soon. I haven't got the time or room to do such major works.

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