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It’s not OT it’s me LR diff workshop question


Hybrid_From_Hell

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😂😂😂

 

Looking to ( as other may well be doing and or thinking )  save some money on workshop lighting ?? 

I  have near 12 x 5 or 6 foot flouresent lights and am thinking of removing the lot for replacement LED units

so question(s) are :

which are the most reliable 

4k 6k lumens etc / specs etc ?

any other useful info on converting ??

Nige

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9 minutes ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:

😂😂😂

 

Looking to ( as other may well be doing and or thinking )  save some money on workshop lighting ?? 

I  have near 12 x 5 or 6 foot flouresent lights and am thinking of removing the lot for replacement LED units

so question(s) are :

which are the most reliable 

4k 6k lumens etc / specs etc ?

any other useful info on converting ??

Nige

I've been substituting my fluorescent lights with these led lights, you can see how much brighter they are

20221106_183638.thumb.jpg.69a8223ee62156232f7f4b46e7d24000.jpg

20221106_183715.thumb.jpg.d9b48ce8394c9afa95c5b8187fb70d05.jpg

they are Thorn lights, I just wire them into where the flouresent lights were wired

regards Stephen 

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You can just replace the tubes, leaving the battens where they are. No need to do any wiring. The starter is replaced with a blank that’s supplied with the tube.

i don’t know the brightness of mine offhand but it’s instant light and whiter than the fluorescent. 

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Whatever you buy, you need as much Lumens as possible, As for colour, I like 4000 to 4500K which for me is a nice white light, once you go beyond this the light becomes progressively more blue tinged, which personally, I dont like. Even though some describe it as daylight.

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18 minutes ago, smallfry said:

Whatever you buy, you need as much Lumens as possible

Ish.... And this will certainly apply to Nige with all the welding going on! 

I've only got normal florescent tubes in the workshop and whilst brightest is best most of the time. if you go that route, make sure you can either dim them or put them in sets you can switch off. Over the top of my workbench I've got 3x 2ft twins. There are often occasions when I switch one or more of them off (each of the units is individually switched, with another overall on/off) whilst welding as the reflections on weld preps can set off my hood before I strike an arc.

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I bought some of the Screwfix LED battens with the replacement starter .. and they are too long. I’m assuming it’s the switch to metric …. 
 

I have one fluorescent tube that seems to keep going back to flickering… new tube and I’ve been through a few starters.  So I’m keen to switch to LED. 

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I had my tubes delivered (from Toolstation) and one was shattered. They were in their boxes and each was inside its own packing tube. So I asked for a replacement and said I'd pickup from the nearest place. When I went there, the assistant went to the back and brought it to the counter. The packing tube was in a U -shape. I was staggered and asked if he knew what it was. He didn't. I was a little bit annoyed.

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On 11/7/2022 at 7:49 AM, jason110 said:

I installed the LAP 5ft led battens from Screwfix. 
 

absolute doddle to fit. Cool white colour temperature and plenty Light enough. 
 

 

These are ok lights, i've ended up replacing 1 or 2 on a 14 light run in a large workshop, but it's not very cost effective to have to replace the entire unit. 

 

The ones i've fitted have a switch inside to allow you to swap between 3 colour modes 4000k/5000k/6500k

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8 hours ago, Badger110 said:

 

These are ok lights, i've ended up replacing 1 or 2 on a 14 light run in a large workshop, but it's not very cost effective to have to replace the entire unit. 

 

The ones i've fitted have a switch inside to allow you to swap between 3 colour modes 4000k/5000k/6500k

I was going to say I've never had much success with anything lighting wise made by LAP. 

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What am I missing here?  I've three fluorescent tubes in my garage, all 55W tubes.  Replacing these with LEDs which are also rated to 55W saves me nothing, actually costs me the price of the LEDs themselves.  So, where is the saving coming from?  Does dropping from 55 to maybe 35W really save that much??

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17 minutes ago, SPendrey said:

What am I missing here?  I've three fluorescent tubes in my garage, all 55W tubes.  Replacing these with LEDs which are also rated to 55W saves me nothing, actually costs me the price of the LEDs themselves.  So, where is the saving coming from?  Does dropping from 55 to maybe 35W really save that much??

You need to compare the light output. If they're twice the lumens per watt for example, then you only need one with half the power draw.

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49 minutes ago, SPendrey said:

What am I missing here?  I've three fluorescent tubes in my garage, all 55W tubes.  Replacing these with LEDs which are also rated to 55W saves me nothing, actually costs me the price of the LEDs themselves.  So, where is the saving coming from?  Does dropping from 55 to maybe 35W really save that much??

Are they actually 55W, or 55W-equivalent? Because a 55W LED is very, very bright.

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1 hour ago, elbekko said:

Are they actually 55W, or 55W-equivalent? Because a 55W LED is very, very bright.

There's no way the led strip lights are 55w, we have some low bay lights at work they were 250w each. We've replaced the lamps with 70w led and they are now brighter.

Mike

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