muddy Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 I have decent ish disco II chassis I have had blasted and am repairing. I'm all set to get it galved but looking at the internal rust between the strengthening ribs has made me question whether it's worth it so I just wanted opinions or real life experience. I was planning on chucking some waxoyl at it as well. I will not be buying a Richards chassis. A few pictures.... So do I. Galv and waxoyl , paint and waxoyl, scrap the lot or ...........? Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Ermintrude . . . I'd probably use waxoyl. I intend to have any new vehicles done with it from now on before they get dirty, the Ranger was done when brand new and it is perfect underneath after three years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Hi, What about spraying a rust killer in there to stop the stiffeners from restarting the rot? If they were before, during and after pics then an impressive job and retains the original chassis look. What were the cross members like? Mine had rot in the spring hangers but also in the bracing for the large crossmember for the A frame. By the way are you hoping for little angle grinder offspring? Marc Ah just reviewed the pics and yours is a later round crossmember chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 If I was in that position again, like I was with my 88" S1 years ago, I'd weld all the holes up and put half a gallon of oil in each rail ! I really wish I had done that with the RRC buggy as well. I'm now doing it as I go along and it's hard going. Worth it to keep chocolate mud out though If that's not an option, then I'd turn it upside-down and spray a mix of oil and waxoil inside there and let it soak in. (plenty of it) It works great for the bottom rails, as it gets between layers. It's the only thing to slow down the dissolving of my transit inside. The oil makes it more active. Outside is down to acid killing the rust that is in the tiny pockets left by shot blasting. Then some industrial marine undercoat followed by something that dries. ( MOT blokes don't like wet sticky chassis' ). I think not earthing to the chassis helps as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 if not galvanising it, give it a good coat of some decent industrial paint, then try get as much oil/waxoyle etc inside it, if you do it that way you wont have to re clean the grease/wax marks off it before you paint. I wouldn't use anything else other than a paint to seal the outside of the chassis as after welding umpteen D1's all suffering because of that horrible rubber type under sealant trapping water, at least with paint, if water gets under it, then it just flakes off, and you can rub it down and re-coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I'd still be tempted to galv it. The acid dip will get into all corners and the galv will certainly slow down any future internal rust better than any coating you might get in there. For the price of sending it away compared to hours of painting to get a decent coverageI would say it is a no brainer. Of course it all depends how long you plan on keeping the D2. I found it impossible to form any sort of bond with mine. Definitely not a motor I would be planning on keeping for any length of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 We love the motor and plan on keeping it a while, that's why I'm going to the trouble! It will be had to find a similar spec machine with a decent chassis so that's why I'm doing this in the first place. My thoughts were and still are that the galv will be the best internal coating, also will it not help kill the rust a certain amount with the acid dip? I'll ponder some more as I weld the other side today..... Will. Edit: BM surely I can get it ermintrude after I've had it Galvenised that way it will outlast the sun no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Please don't fill chassis rails with oil. When it drips all over the road, bikers like me get tipped off in the rain. I've had it once this year already and I'm not keen on it happening again. A chassis full of oil will not stop rust. The water will still get in, then the oil will sit on top of it and the steel will still rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I would agree with the galvanising idea; have it shotblasted first, before galvanized. the internals may not be protected as well, so I would still waxoil it internaly. My chassis still looks really good with no visible rust, despite loads of denting at the bottom and the rear crossmember. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I stand to be corrected, but my understanding is that galvanising doesn't necessarily have to have 100% coverage (though it is obviously better if it is) in order to work. Maybe someone who knows about these things can explain exactly how it works to protect the Iron from oxidising Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I stand to be corrected, but my understanding is that galvanising doesn't necessarily have to have 100% coverage (though it is obviously better if it is) in order to work. Maybe someone who knows about these things can explain exactly how it works to protect the Iron from oxidising this is correct; the zinc offers itself up to corrode, rather than the steel, as it is lower in the foodchain than steel, so to speak. So yes, full coverage is ideal, but it is not strictly needed. I also found that galvanizing stops the aluminium offering itself up to the steel, which is common on landrovers. Landrover chrome rules, basically. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 For the money / time / effort I'd galv it. If dipping it in molten Zinc doesn't get all the nooks and crannies then I don't know what will. As long as there's a few holes for it to get in & out again it should flow through nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 when galv is there a special paint you have to use on it after,( sorry to poach) but just had my 110 mod chassis galvanised and would like to paint it , dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 In order to paint it you need to use T wash, followed by etch primer, followed by the paint Or do what I did, and buy a product for Vinylast - made by Rourkes I think. It goes straight onto the galv. 2.5 years later it still looks as good as new (underneath the filth anyway!) and no mucking about with t wash or primers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Thanks, I'm aware or the mordant solution required to etch the surface I've a few litres somewhere from the last stuff I galved and needed to paint. From the opinions it's galv all the way I feel. I was just concerned about the rot coming back through and then having to try and weld up a Galvenised rot box! Daan I'm guessing you modded a second hand chassis and then had it galved and it's never been an issue? Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Daan I'm guessing you modded a second hand chassis and then had it galved and it's never been an issue? Will. Will, it was an unused defender 90 chassis, e coated as standard, never used but been laying outside for about 5 years. The shotblasting is vital to get a good layerthickness. Peterborough galvanizers did a very good job on it. You have to make sure there are holes in it, but I think the landrover chassis do have sufficient holes as standard. They go in the bath on its side, with one end lower than the other, so just try to visualize how the zinc can flow in and out of all cavities. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Galv, T-wash, POR-15, then 3M Body Schutz. Then forget all about it for 10 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Hi Will, Mate this is just me, and I'm a horrible perfectionist, but I couldn't galv a less than perfect chassis. I've just done the exactly the same repairs to my D2 and my inner ribs were puffed up with decay. I repaired them best I could and welded everything up - overlapped like your job as per original too. Then I painted and waxoyled everything. Outside only. I'll admit I'm fond of this D2, but it's not the apple of my eye, so if I still have it by the time the chassis needs attention again then I'll be cool with putting a new galv chassis under it. Having said that... you've your chassis off, which is a totally different story. If it were me there'd be a new galv'd chassis going in if I knew the internals of the original weren't like new. Here's a thought though, I intentionally left the towing eye off on the bad side on mine. It may be being over cautious, (and I have a tow bar instead), but just so that I'm never absent mindedly tempted to tow something directly from that chassis leg. Best of luck either way George EDIT: I've a 41 year old RR and the chassis is like new (it's the original)... and it was never treated to anything more than waxoyl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Our company sells pre-galv steel, so I know a little bit about hot dipped galvanising. Even if it does not get into every nook and cranny it is by far the most effective anti rust coating. As Daan said the outer zinc layer sacrifices itself to the atmospheric conditions and forms a series of alloys which in some cases are harder than the zinc itself. This is usually referred to as weathering. This alloy outer layer prevents further degradation for a considerable time scale. The degradation of the zinc is directly proportional to the sulphur dioxide levels surrounding the part. These levels have been dramatically reduced since the late 70`s. Our farming members will already know that the galv purlins and top sheets used for cattle sheds last a short time due to cows farting Mordant/etch primer/paint on top/waxoil or dinitrol inside is all good. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 It's off to the galvanisers tommoro all being well. If I could get a new chassis I would however the only supplier is Richards, I've spoken to a few people I trust well including a local indepentant and they all say Richards chassis are often out of skew and need holes slotting. Add this to their carp attitude when I went to speak to them at the indoor show, exorbitant price, questionable fit ( this is what they told me themselves ), I didn't like the welding and they couldn't decide whether they would sell me one or not, they can shove their chassis. We'll see what it comes back like, now all I need to do is work out what's wrong with the two poster so I can lift the body off.... Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 It's off to the galvanisers tommoro all being well. If I could get a new chassis I would however the only supplier is Richards, I've spoken to a few people I trust well including a local indepentant and they all say Richards chassis are often out of skew and need holes slotting. Add this to their carp attitude when I went to speak to them at the indoor show, exorbitant price, questionable fit ( this is what they told me themselves ), I didn't like the welding and they couldn't decide whether they would sell me one or not, they can shove their chassis. We'll see what it comes back like, now all I need to do is work out what's wrong with the two poster so I can lift the body off.... Will. I have to say that the total opposite to 99% of the opinions I've heard about Richards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Is it me or have galv chassis gone up by a few hundred pound this year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Is it me or have galv chassis gone up by a few hundred pound this year? Dunno, but I have read about, and heard peeps talking about getting them for around a grand................. I have never been able to find them at this price though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I have to say that the total opposite to 99% of the opinions I've heard about Richards. And me, they were absolutly fantastic when I had my slightly special 109 chassis a year or 2 ago, and very apologetic and quick to refund when I pointed out the recovery points hadn't been fitted I'd asked for. Ok they didn't offer to put it right, but to be fair it was a custom chassis and it would have been a massive cost to the business to do that....I decided it was worth that before I even spoke to them. I will be returning to them without a shadow of a doubt this winter for an 88 chassis, all being well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Have to praise Richards as well , with my chassis for 300tdi auto 90 , very good service when I collected, and no problems ( more than usual LR tolerances) with build JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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