Jump to content

Recommended Posts

The other thing I always come back to with air tanks and using 'other' things, you never know when you might be working near to it. Anything with a compressed gas venting quickly is an easy route to hearing damage or a lost eye.

For the oil cooler, I think it would be worth having an oil temp gauge on it. Temp stickers on the outside of the engine aren't going to show what the oil temp is at the points which matter. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still have the original oil cooler in place. My coolant sits between 90-95 exiting the engine and I think the oil sits around 85 degrees. I cant remember if that's before or after its been cooled.... Fairly sure I am running 10-30w.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

On the oil filter thingy, what's the block like where it bolts on - can you tap out the holes and thread hydraulic fittings in? That would give you an easy route to a remote filter wherever you wanted it.

If I remember correctly when I took mine off its just some threaded holes for the bolts and the ports bend fairly quickly so I don't think tapping them would be that straightforward.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bursting discs stop debris and damage. They go off with a bang though. I made a programming mistake causing one to ‘pop’ on the evening of the 1987 hurricane. I had to work all night, on my own, to sort things out. Meanwhile it was carnage outside, something I discovered later.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn’t want to be hit by a burst-disc.  We have them at work for the oxygen and engine fire extinguisher systems and they’re facing downward and outward in a manner that could fire the disc at you when doing the checks.  A pressure issue that’d fire one is only likely if there was an extraordinary amount of heat applied to the system, in which case you wouldn’t be hanging around anyway, but the possibility of a weak disc failing and hitting someone is not a pleasant one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, Snagger said:

I wouldn’t want to be hit by a burst-disc.  We have them at work for the oxygen and engine fire extinguisher systems and they’re facing downward and outward in a manner that could fire the disc at you when doing the checks.  A pressure issue that’d fire one is only likely if there was an extraordinary amount of heat applied to the system, in which case you wouldn’t be hanging around anyway, but the possibility of a weak disc failing and hitting someone is not a pleasant one.

Unless the terminology is something different, none of our burst discs are designed to come out away from anything, they're just designed to rupture and split open. Obviously a rush of gas or similar isn't great, but there shouldn't be any flying debris. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Peaklander said:

Yes they are designed to split in the middle and ours were mounted on upward facing pipes, well out of the way. The one I caused to burst would have been on an LN2 system.

Nice, quite a bit of energy potential there if something goes wrong. Mine are only small ones by comparison on a Deuterium system and fit inside a 1" fitting so the escape lines can be piped away. Custom ones too which are only rated for 0.5Bar.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Peaklander said:

Bursting discs stop debris and damage.

I fitted a standard compressor over-pressure relief valve to my air manifold, it was about £15 since I didn't fancy the random ones from ebay for £5 as a safety-critical device  :ph34r:

That's in addition to the actual compressor cutoff valve and the fact a 6mm push-fit pipe will likely pop before the air tank begins to notice anything.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Unless the terminology is something different, none of our burst discs are designed to come out away from anything, they're just designed to rupture and split open. Obviously a rush of gas or similar isn't great, but there shouldn't be any flying debris. 

I hope these are similarly restrained, but none of our manual go into much detail about their construction.  All I can see is a slightly recessed plastic disc (green for O2, amber and red for APU halon extinguisher on an older type I worked on, not visible on my current type).

IMG_0622.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Snagger said:

I hope these are similarly restrained, but none of our manual go into much detail about their construction.  All I can see is a slightly recessed plastic disc (green for O2, amber and red for APU halon extinguisher on an older type I worked on, not visible on my current type).

IMG_0622.png

Sounds like a strange concept in plastic to me given how properties change so much with temp. 

Sorry for the derailment @Stellaghost

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I appreciate this is not Landrover, but does anyone know where i can buy Toyota connectors,  this is one off the engine loom that would have connected to the main harness

20230928_195312.thumb.jpg.c2f41b6ef6248bbac650cc46b66a6131.jpg

these are for the ecu however I don't have the 4th connector which I'm led to believe is the one you do most of the alterations on

20230928_195425.thumb.jpg.5bc668c956e9c96e941e89be3d130168.jpg

TIA

regards Stephen 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you got a scrappers near you? Would think a rummage in one of them would get you something, and maybe even a MAF at the same time. 

Failing that and we all get together and cobble a MS install together through donations :D

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

but does anyone know where i can buy Toyota connectors

I think they are a TE/Amphenol part - it might be worth a cheeky message to Phoenix Engine Management to see if they know the part numbers.

28 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

this is one off the engine loom that would have connected to the main harness

You need so few wires off that if I recall correctly that you're probably easier (once you've figured them out) simply cutting the wires and splicing them where you need to go.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, TD5toV8110 said:

Maybe get some of these?

6 pin seems to be the biggest easily available.

Need a special crimp tool, but once you get the technique the make very good connectors!

shhworldsea 30sets 1/2/3/4/5/6 Pin/way HID Car Waterproof Electrical ...

Apparently multipack boxes of deutsch plugs are cheap on TEMU, my cousin keeps buying random multipack boxes to keep his service van topped up. Might be an option if you want to reterminate it all with waterproof stuff.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, TD5toV8110 said:

Maybe get some of these?

6 pin seems to be the biggest easily available.

Need a special crimp tool, but once you get the technique the make very good connectors!

shhworldsea 30sets 1/2/3/4/5/6 Pin/way HID Car Waterproof Electrical ...

Can use these, the special tool can be avoided by using a normal crimping tool working through the different sizes

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy