reb78 Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 As above - what have you painted your galvanised chassis' with? Would you use it again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 Wash it well with a degreasing detergent, hand dry, then Mordant T solution, rinse off when it turns the galv black, I used a coach paint buf coloured primer, then vehicle chassis black gloss paint, more details in my chassis change post. Yes I would use the same, but talk to Craig at Buzzweld as they do duitable finish & primer for galv chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 Not done all the chassis but t-wash, Jotun penguard HB or jotamastic 87 AL , then jotun hardtop flexi on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 Did mine this time last year and it hasn't fallen off yet! T-wash, etch primer, Frosts Extreme Chassis Black (Satin), Waxoyl black (except face of rear crossmember). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 I left it as it was. Fitted nicely to my galvanised bumper and capings on the One Ten. Capings are 38 years old and no zinc washed of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 Stonechip. I wish I hadn't as it's not hard wearing. I would want to paint it with something else but stripping it all off isn't really practical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 I used mordant wash and then Buzzweld’s Chassis in One (CIO). The rest of the underside such as wheel arches and tub, is covered with Waxoyl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 We did not go for paint : Powdercoating after the galvanizing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 Buzzweld CIO which didn’t fare well - not enough thickness, needs more coats than it says. Will be getting it powdercoated soon for the second time around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 Interesting that no one has said POR 15, I know it's horrible stuff to apply but I assume that makes it stick well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 T-wash, galv etch primer, then rustoleum 7300 satin black. The aerosol 7300 did a better adhesion job than the brush/roller application from the tin. The 7300 seems to be everything that Hammerite isn't these days. POR-15 is good for rough rusty bits? (not shiny new galv?) 🙂 Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 If you can spray, it will always give you better coverage and get into crevices without an air gap much better than brushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 22, 2021 Author Share Posted May 22, 2021 I can spray it. I have a big compressor and Have a rollover jig for another project that will get used for this too. I dont know if that alters things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 22, 2021 Author Share Posted May 22, 2021 A few others I have asked are talking about Epoxy Primers that can go straight onto the galv? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 I washed the new chassis with soapy water and a pressure washer, then let it weather a bit for a month before using etch primer and Rustolem matt black aerosols for the rear cross member aft face and the dumb irons, and applied Hammerite Underbody Sheild by brush (corners) and roller directly to the rest of the chassis. The finish was good and it’s very resilient to road spray and chipping, just washes off a bit easily with fuel, oil or solvents. Cheap, neat (once it’s tackiness dries away) and very resilient in general terms. I’d do it the same way again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 T wash and 2 pack paint. I have someone who does them for me. 3 top coats. Have done 4 now. 2 only just done. 1 done 3 years ago but stores indoors. 1 been on road 9 months Not been on the road long enough to really tell but first signs promising and easy to touch up and wont flake like powder coat. My main reason was to have it look standard but not cause issues. The added protection is a bonus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 This is one of the galvanised primers. https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-products/speciality-paints/quick-dry-galvanised-metal-prime I have not used it and used the Bullseye 1 2 3 for my galvanised door skins. skins. https://www.zinsseruk.com/howto/paint-galvanised-metal/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Obviously before anyone says it I know mine hasn't hit the road yet but its had some knocks in the workshop (sharp edges onto corners etc) and its not damaged it. New galv T-wash (feels wrong turning a shiny new chassis into a dull grey one! Rinse off with water and leave to dry POR15 Metal-Prep solution - sprayed on with a garden sprayer and then left to dry POR15 black - 2 coats. If you use POR15.... make sure your legs are covered . I had it stuck on my legs for weeks Worth noting that POR15 isn't UV stable, so I will be top coating the rear crossmember at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 I went for Bilt Hamber Etch primer followed by their epoxy coating. I also used their cavity wax from a rattle can (which is very good) and then to town with brush on Waxoyl as well. One big mistake i made was not being thorough enough with cleaning the chassis before i started and i've got some bits flaking off now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Davies Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 I went with Mordant T-wash then etch primer then some red oxide primer I had in the shed and then black metal paint, nothing fancy (aldi I think) thinned down enough to spray. Its been on for 5 years now and no chips and still looks like new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon W Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 T washed mine Then Tractol tractor primer and top coat sprayed on Has been very good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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